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Coalinga
RESTAURANTS
Harris Ranch Kitchen / Fountain Court Grill / 2*
24505 W DORRIS AVE (HWY 198), COALINGA; 559/935-0717 OR 800/942-2333
Fine dining next to an interstate in the middle of nowhere? It's possible
here. California travelers who remember the Nut Tree near Vacaville will
recognize the concept. The Harris family came to the Central Valley in
the early 1900s, growing all manner of crops before they expanded into
beef production. Located side by side in a sprawling hacienda-style building,
these two restau-rants showcase aged, choice beef raised under a stringent
USDA-certified "residue avoidance" program. Like some steakhouses
in Texas, whose menu word count approaches Proustian
proportions and where every nuance of "how you want it" is explored
in depth, Harris gives you plenty of decision-making to do. "Medium"
has a "pink center" (nothing new), while "medium-rare"
is distinguished by a "red, warm center." In addition to the
beans and sasads, side dishes
'IQ^ typically include comfort fare such as mashed or baked potatoes and
steamed broccoli. Dinner rolls are fresh and warm from an oven, not rendered
rubbery by a microwave. The Ranch Kitchen is friendly and informal. One
of its best introductions to the distinctive aged and fla-
vorful Harris-raised beef is Jack's Favorite, an 8-ounce New York served
atop two slices of grilled garlic-butter sourdough bread. Spinach salads
are especially fresh, and the ranch-style beans are smoky and rich, although
a bit toothy. Dinners in the Fountain Court Grill offer larger
portions and larger prices to boot, but the soothing, clubby atmosphere
is a welcome respite after a long day on the road. $ (Ranch Kitchen);
$$ (Fountain Court Grill); AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; breakfast, lunch,
dinner every day (Ranch Kitchen); dinner every day (Grill); full bar;
reservations recommended (Grill only); www.harrisranch.com; exit 198 East
from 1-5. |