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Santa
Ana
RESTAURANTS
Antonello / 3*
1611 SUNFLOWER AVE, SANTA ANA; 714/751-7153
This longtime darling of the power dining set maintains its lofty perch
by consistently supplying premium service and refined Italian cuisine
amid lavish surroundings. Gracious owner Antonio Cagnolo adds warmth and
style to the proceedings, personally overseeing a highly skilled kitchen
that turns out what Cagnolo calls cucina nostalgica (though we deem it
mostly Northern Italian), handling special requests with aplomb. The broad
menu touches on classics old and new such as delicate miniature veal ravioli
with bolognese sauce (his mother's recipe) or creamy risotto
blessed with shrimp and champagne—hardly the same old take on the
dish. A notable wine list is well supported by a wine-savvy waitstaff.
The meandering layout and faux-palazzo design of the dining room includes
many nooks and crannies for privacy or romance. Utterly upscale yet per-
fectly, endearingly gracious, this top-notch enterprise offers some of
Orange County's foremost Italian cuisine in a setting suited to any special
occasion. $$$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat;
full bar; reservations recommended; www.antonello.com; in South Coast
Plaza Village.
Gustaf Anders / 3*
Back Pocket / 3*
385 I BEAR ST. SANTA ANA; 7 I 4/668-1 737
Chef Gustaf Anders has a stellar reputation as a purveyor of superlative
Swedish and continental cuisine. Virtually impossible to find by chance,
this hidden treasure succeeds with its keen ba-lance of style, civility,
and culinary distinction. Partners Wilhelm Gustaf Magnuson and chef Ulf
Anders Strandberg turn out meals that are memorable by virtue of both
exceptional cooking and a serene setting that is sleek and spare, with
muted hues accented with an occasional shock of bold color. Typical dishes
include sugar-and-salt-cured salmon with creamed dill potatoes,
filet of beef in Stilton/red wine sauce with creamed morels, and Arctic
char roasted on savory vegetables with light tomato and extra virgin olive
oil sauce. Also legendary are many signature breads and a host of herring
preparations, all made on the premises. The partners recently fired
up a wood-burning oven and rotisserie to anchor their adjacent Back Pocket
cafe. In Sweden, bakficka ("back pocket") refers to a satellite
eatery attached to a fine dining establishment. Here they offer similar
fine food at popular prices with more casual surroundings. Though a few
items are lifted directly from the main room's menu, there are plenty
of comfort food dishes like sea bass with tomato broth, honey-glazed pork
loin, and a baked gravlax sandwich dressed with Parmesan, fresh dill,
and tomato concassee. $$$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; lunch Tues-Sat,
dinner Tues-Sun; full bar; reservations recommended; mailgustaf@aol.com;
www.imenu.com; in rear of South Coast Village.
Morton's of Chicago / 3*
1661 SUNFLOWER AVE, SANTA ANA; 714/444-4834
Owned by Hard Rock Cafe co-creator Peter Morton and his sister, Pam (their
father is Arnie Morton, of Arnie Morton's of Chicago steak house fame),
Morton's serves up classic American grill fare in a striking setting.
For a full description of Morton's, see the review of its West Hollywood
location in the L.A. Restaurants section. $$$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks;
dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; south end of South
Coast Plaza Village.
Topaz Cafe / 2*
BOWERS MUSEUM, 2002 N MAIN ST. SANTA ANA; 714/835-2002
Certainly one of the best finds in this part of town, Topaz Cafe is a
visually appealing spot that makes creative use of its location within
the highly regarded Bowers Museum. Added as part of an excellent renovation
of this historic site, the cafe offers a laid-back early California charm
thanks to a prime corner in the lovely Spanish-style courtyard graced
by tiled arcades, towering palms, and historical mural. Inside, the Flintstones
Nouveau decor might be too cavelike if it weren't for the many doors and
windows that open onto the big patio. The menu features World Cuisine
items like Tunisian salad with grilled peppers, artichokes, eggplant,
and endive in tahini dressing or grilled salmon wrapped in corn husks
with cilantro pesto, served with a sweet-corn tamale and black beans.
Less daring diners will be happy with soups (black bean and sweet corn),
salads (grilled romaine wedge with creamy Maytag blue cheese dressing
and caramelized pecans), and crisp roasted tarragon chicken with whole
grain mustard sauce and lumpy mashed potatoes. Daily specials are often
inspired by current museum exhibits (Austrian dishes like onion tarts,
venison stew, and assorted kuchen honored a recent Beethoven show). The
pedestrian wine list won't excite, but they have recently added a commendable
high tea nicely suited to warm afternoons on the shaded veranda. $$; AE,
DC, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Sat, high tea every day, dinner Thurs-Sat,
brunch Sun; full bar; reservations recommended; topazcafe@aol.com; www.westcoastproductions.com;
in the courtyard of the Bowers Museum.
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