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San
Juan Capistrano
Father Jumpero Serra and his brown-robed group of Franciscan missionaries
were drawn to San Juan Capistrano in the 18th century by the area's abundance
of fresh water, its fertile land, and its extensive population of Native
American prospective converts. Construction on the M ISSION SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO
(at the intersection of Ortega Highway and Camino
Capistrano; 949/248-2040), the seventh in the Spanish mission system in
California, began in 1776. It was periodically expanded to accommodate
the increasing number of "neophytes" enslaved to work the hundreds
of acres of surrounding farmland, herd the livestock, and man the weaving,
soap- and candle-making, tanning, and iron-smelting operations the mission's
economy depended on, and by 1796 its population had swelled to almost
2,000. The crown jewel of California's mission chain, which has undergone
constant restoration, still stands on the original 10-acre plot. The historical
site's attractions include the ruins of the original stone church, the
cool white Serra Chapel (one of the oldest Spanish structures in California),
the museum where the mission's founding documents are on display, the
friars' quarters, soldiers' barracks, the ancient olive mill, the cemetery
full of broken headstones, and the well-tended gardens that
lead to the lovely central courtyard. For a larger taste of the area's
history, try the city-sponsored, do-it- yourself SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO WALKING
TOUR. The tour includes
SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO Rios Adobe house, constructed in 1794, the Los Rios
area (California's first residential neighborhood, circa 1870), Garcia
Adobe house (circa 1880), and Egan House. Maps may be obtained from the
helpful folks at the CHAMBER OF COM-MERCE (2nd Floor, El Adobe Plaza,
on Camino Capistrano between Forster and Del Obispo Streets; 949/493-4700).
Apart from its historical importance, the city itself is as attractive
for
visitors as it is for the SWALLOWS who instinctively return each March
and stay through October. The birds may be indifferent to the community's
wide array of gift and clothing boutiques, cafes, and numerous antique
shops along ANTIQUE ROW (at Camino Capistrano between Acjachema and Del
Obispo Streets; 949/493-4700), but they're wild about the mis-
sion, the power lines, and the eaves of many other town structures. The
red-brick CAPISTRANO DEPOT (26762 Verdugo Street, below Camino Capistrano;
800/USA-RAIL) is noteworthy for its dome as well as histor- ical significance.
Constructed in 1894 by the Santa Fe railroad, the minia- ture station
(still an Amtrak stop) now houses a restaurant and shops too.
The VINTAGE BRICK JAIL, out of use since the mid-1800s but great for photo
ops, is just across the tracks. Both are adjacent to the beautifully land
scaped red-brick CAPISTRANO PLAZA, one of the most pleasant and pretty
spots in the entire community. For nightlife, try the popular COACH HOUSE
(33157 Camino Capistrano, just north of Stonehill Drive; 949/496-8927).
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