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Newport
Beach
With its glittering harbors, seven islands, expensive waterfront homes,
thousands of seagoing vessels, miles of gorgeous beach, tanned natives
in elegant shabby-chic garb, and most especially its atmosphere of wealth
and ease, Newport Beach could easily pass for Newport, Rhode Island.
Newport West has one advantage, however: The season here doesn't end with
the Labor Day regatta. Plainly put, the lovely seaside jewel is among
the best destinations Orange County has to offer and is easily accessible
via PCH or the 405 Freeway south to the 55 Freeway, which becomes Newport
Boulevard and crosses over the PCH overpass. The NEWPORT BEACH CHAMBER
OF COMMERCE AND VISITORS BUREAU (3300 West Coast Highway; 949/722-1611)
offers a 24-HOUR INFORMATION CENTER (949/729-4400).
Of the abundant picturesque attractions, a good starting point is BALBOA
PENINSULA, an historic area lined with homes and shops featuring vintage
clothing, antiques, curios, and eateries surrounding Newport Boulevard.
The waterfront village on LIDO ISLE (at Balboa Boulevard) and the cobblestoned
and leafy VIA OPORTO are perfect places to enjoy a latte at one of the
outdoor cafes and shop in the charming boutiques and galleries. Southeast
on Newport Boulevard is the quaint and historic CANNERY VILLAGE, home
to a commercial fishing
fleet, shops, and galleries. Nearby NEWPORT PIER boasts the DORY FISHING
FLEET, an energetic and resourceful cooperative established in 1889 where
you can shop the open-air market for the catch of the day, and a beach
that's an extremely popular surfing spot, with a horseshoe- shaped strand
lined with fun and funky food concessions and beachwear shops. The roller-skate,
blade, and bicycle rental concerns usually do a land-office business because
there are miles of smooth boardwalk and bicycle paths. At BALBOA PIER,
where the harbor meets the )-etty, is a body-surfers' and boogie-boarders'
heaven called THE WEDGE. The waves are powerful-and so is the undertow.
THE BALBOA PAVILION (end of Main Street, at the intersection of Edgewater
Street; 949/673- 4633) is a wooden, gabled, cupola-topped confection more
reminiscent of the other Newport. Constructed in 1905, it's the city's
most famous landmark. The pavilion is the departure point for WHALE.WATCHING
(in-season from December through March) and SPORTFISHING, both of which
are available through Davie's Locker (949/673-1434), as well as HARBOR
CRUISES and CATALINA ISLAND JAUNTS via Catalina Passenger Service (949/673-5245).
The kiosk at the pavilion's entrance is full of brochures about all the
tours and other available activities. The BALBOA FUN ZONE (beyond the
intersection at Washington Street and Edgewater; 949/673-0408), another
New-port institution, boasts a Ferns wheel, carousel, bumper cars, and
arcade games.
Across the harbor is BALBOA ISLAND, an excellent excursion via the BALBOA
ISLAND FERRY (ferry landing off Main Street; 949/673-1070). The charming,
spic-and-span auto/ pedestrian shuttle has been in operation since 1919
and accommodates three vehicles per trip. Drivers are free to leave their
vehicles at the craft's gunwales and admire the harbor's blue sparkle.
Balboa Island is a tiny community with an East Coast fishing village ambience,
its narrow streets lined with a jumble of cottages and garage-top apartments.
The island's main drag, Marine Avenue, leads to the tiny village's Shangri-La
of unique boutiques and diminutive
restaurants.
On the other side of PCH a few turns in the car lead to one of the entrances
to BACK BAY, the name residents have given to UPPER NEWPORT BAY ECOLOGICAL
RESERVE AND REGIONAL PARK (600 Shellmaker Island; 949/640-1751). The 752-acre
saltwater marsh is a protected sanctuary for 200 species of birds and
encompasses six different habitats.
Rowing and kayaking are excellent ways to explore the area. Contact the
NEWPORT AQUATIC CENTER (One Whitecliffs Drive, located below the reserve
and PCH; 949/646-7725) for information on kayak and canoe rental.
The ORANGE COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART (OCMA) (850 San Clemente Drive; 949/759-1122;
www.ocarts.org/ocma/), formerly the Newport Harbor Art Museum, may seem
unpre-possessing, but the collection of works inside by California artists
is spectacular, from dreamy
impressionist-style paintings from the turn of the century to edgier post
modern installations. More attainable visuals are abundant at FASHION
ISLAND (401 Newport Center, between MacArthur and Jamboree; 949/721-2000
or 800/495-4753), Newport Beach's premier outdoor shopping oasis complete
with koi pond and a dog-friendly attitude. New port nightlife is best
at BOB BURNS (37 Fashion Island; 949/644-2030), where there's dancing
and live music nightly for sophisticates.
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