|
|
RESTAURANTS
Cafe Zinc / 1.5*
350 OCEAN AVE, LACUNA BEACH; 949/494-6302
All the elements of Laguna Beach village life merge at this bustling
Euro style sidewalk cafe with zinc-topped tables. Its central location
is only a minor reason for long lines at the counter; exceedingly tasty
and creative morning and midday eats are the major draws (transcending
service that is often coldly brusque). Superior baked goods, home-blended
granolas, robust frittatas, and inventive sandwiches all share makings
of the highest quality—even the coffee drinks meet sublime standards.
The few inside tables fill up only when all of the patio spots are taken.
Expect to witness a colorful display of locals at leisure—artists
and writers noshing
beside cyclists and CEO's, with plenty of dogs leashed to chair legs.
The adjacent market is a good source for beach-picnic fixings. $; no credit
cards; checks OK; breakfast, lunch every day; beer and wine; reservations
not accepted; between Ocean and Forest Aves.
Cafe Zoolu / 2*
860 GLENNEYRE ST, LAGUNA BEACH; 949/494-6825
Artsy, funky, crowded, noisy—this is dining in true Lagunatic style.
The work of local artists provides much of the ambience here, and the
varied crowd provides the rest. Villagers and inlanders alike flock to
this pint size eatery to dine on Cal-Eclectic dishes prepared in the open
kitchen only a few steps from the front door. Hearty soups (often encircling
a mound of their famous mashed potatoes), grilled meats, vegetarian fare,
and plenty of daily specials make up a small but creative menu that also
includes what many consider the best (and biggest) serving of swordfish
on the coast. In keeping with the lack of square footage, the wine list
is also small, but it's well chosen. Even with reservations, prepare to
wait (sans drinks) on the sidewalk as tables turn over slowly. A speedier
alternative can be a seat at the counter overlooking the kitchen action,
an eye-opening entertainment for anyone who is starry-eyed about the restaurant
biz. $$$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; dinner only Wed-Sun; beer and wine;
reservations recommended; between St. Ann's Dr and Thalia St.
Dexter's / 2*
2892 S PACIFIC COAST HWY, LACUNA BEACH; 949/497-8912
Talk about an identity crisis. What would you call continental-meets
Pacific-Rim-meets-Cali-fornia-meets-farmer's-market? Imaginative chef
owner Scott Savoy labels it "Global Fusion," and his customers
deem it irresistible. Well south of town and right on noisy PCH, this
bantam
bistro squeezes maximum style out of minimal space, enticing diners with
techno-luxe decor and the likes of duck confit, shiitake mushroom and
fresh spinach salad with Thai tahini dressing, sweet-and-spicy Jamaican
jerk chicken with guava honey chili glaze, or pepper-crusted salmon with
champagne sauce. Patrons are a buoyant mix, service is cheerful yet skilled,
and the prevailing mood is affably hedonistic. Avoid sitting out- doors
(unless you enjoy shouting over traffic); for a peek at chef Scott in
action, request a seat at the exhibition kitchen's counter. $$$; AE, DC,
MC, V; no checks; dinner Tues-Sun; beer and wine; reservations recommended;
at Nyes PI.
Five Feet /2.5
328 GLENNEYRE ST, LACUNA BEACH; 949/497-4955
What do we call this food? "Contemporary Chinese?" "Asian
Eclectic?" "Nouvelle Pacific Rim?" Whatever it's called,
chef-owner Michael Kang certainly pioneered it in Orange County, and it
has remained popular for over a decade, long outliving the trendy stage.
Seafood lovers are very
happy here, and few can leave without ordering the signature whole catfish,
first marinated in wine, then flash-fried and served with a tomato/peanut/citrus
sauce. "Wild Vision" is a typical entree—fresh Hawaiian
opakapaka grilled with a soy-balsamic reduction plus tempura soft-shell
crab topped with mango-papaya relish and champagne ginger sauce. Prices
can edge up here, but portions are hefty and even the wonderful appetizers
can make a fantastic feast. The wine list is cleverly chosen. The feel
of this place is pure Laguna Beach—small, unusual, and crowded.
The joint bustles on weekends, so too much noise is inevitable. It's a
rather petite space, boldly decorated with arty industrial flair (Kang,
who studied architecture, designed the room). A word of warning: On busy
nights, the too-small foyer makes waiting and checking in quite problematic,
and parking is tough too. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; dinner every
day; beer and wine; reservations recommended; between Forest Ave and Mermaid
St.
Picayo / 2.5*
1155 N PACIFIC COAST HWY, LACUNA BEACH; 949/497-5051
This enchanting cafe reflects the European character of Laguna Beach,
offering delicious rewards for those who venture beyond downtown. Partners
David Rubin and chef Laurent Brazier combine the flavors of the Mediterranean
with the spirit of Southern France to create careful,
pretty meals served with finesse. The attractive space with stone floors
and Provencal fabrics handles only 20 at a time (dinner is split into
two seatings on weekends), but the effect is totally engaging. Seafood
often dominates the short dinner menu of select starters and entrees.
Don't miss the silky lobster bisque accented with fragrant ribbons of
orange zest. A typical entree might be sauteed sea scallops with braised
fennel and curried zucchini in lemon chardonnay beurre blanc. Other dishes
include pistachio-crusted halibut over mushrooms or charbroiled lamb chops
in a beaujolais thyme sauce. The predominantly domestic wine list includes
a few gems and a few European imports. Service is courteous and subdued,
making this one of Laguna's finest hidden treasures. $$$; AE, DC, MC,
V; no checks; dinner Tues—Sat; beer and wine; reservations rec-
ommended; one mile north of Laguna Beach.
Taco Loco / 1*
640 S COAST HWY, LAGUNA BEACH; 949/497-1635
For over 12 years, this quirky joint has attracted a steady stream of
daring diners eager to feast on an offbeat menu of cheap, tasty Mexican
munchies. A roster of nearly 20 tacos is the core of the menu here. You
can order the standard beef, chicken, or carnitas versions, but that's
almost missing the point. Instead, go for an uncommon taco interpretation
such as blackened mushroom (tofu optional, but surprisingly good), blackened
salmon, or mahi-mahi. The blackened lobster taco is the priciest choice,
but worth it. Slapped together in the tiniest kitchen imag- inable, tacos
are drizzled with your choice of hot, hotter, or hottest sauce and are
accompanied by a chunky relish of fresh avocados. The warm tortillas are
super-fresh and may be made of corn, blue corn, or whole wheat, depending
on what item you've chosen. After placing your order at the cramped counter,
grab a wobbly patio table overlooking busy PCH.
Add some sunshine, a cold microbrew, and amusing people-watching, and
you have the quintessential Laguna Beach feast. $; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V;
no checks; lunch, dinner every day; beer and wine; reservations not accepted;
vedamantra@msn.com; between Clio and Legion Sts.
|