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Laguna
Beach
For many years visitors zooming along Pacific Coast Highway into Laguna
Beach did a double-take when they spotted the cheery old gent standing
at the side of the road waving them in. His name was Eiler Vatseh, was
a community's'of oveA gTeetei.'^i.'Larsen is gone now, but in his place,
in front of the Pottery Shack just inside the city limits, there's a statue
commemorating him. There's another one at the. opposite end of town, too,
in front of Greeters Corner Restaurant. Witka or without an official greeter,
visitors have been nocking to this friendly community for more than a
century. By the late 1800s, they were camping on the beaches and exploring
the tide pools. The early Hollywood community adored Laguna Beach: filmmakers
appreciated the area's varied topography, and in the 1920s, 1930s, and
1940s stars such as Bette Davis, Victor Mature, and Judy Garland had vacation
homes here. Attracted by the spectacular ocean vistas, the hillsides covered
with brightly colored wildflowers, and the intense Mediterranean light,
artists flocked here, too, and they were in the vanguard of the California
impressionist movement. By 1917 Laguna Beach was a recognized artists'
colony, and it remains one to this day. In 1932, the artists formed a
cooperative and presented the first FESTIVAL OF ARTS/PAGEANT OF THE MASTERS
(949/494-1145), which became the annual event that has put Laguna Beach
on the map. The Festival of Arts is a juried exhibit of original works
from more than 150 local artists, displayed on a 6-acre patch of park
land just off of Laguna Canyon Road, near PCH, on the prop- erty surrounding
the Irvine Bowl. On festival evenings the Pageant of the Masters is presented
inside the Bowl. Visitors are treated to tableaux vivants live, staged
re-creations of classical paintings, accompanied by orchestral music and
narration. These evenings draw art lovers from all over the country, and
tickets must be purchased months in advance (650 Laguna Canyon Road, just
off PCH; 949/497-6582 or 800/494-1145).
The annual SAWDUST FESTIVAL (949/494-3030), held concurrently with the
Festival of Arts/Pageant of the Masters and directly across Laguna Canyon
Road, is another popular Laguna Beach event. This festival provides a
venue for local artisans to display and sell their pottery, jewelry, and
much more, amidst food booths, entertainment, and hands-on demons- trations.
Also concurrent is the annual ART-A-FAIR (949/494- 4514), on the same
grounds as the Sawdust Festival, where fine arts— predominantly
paintings and sculpture created by artists from all over the world—are
displayed and offered for sale.
In 1960 the stretch of North Coast Highway (in upper Laguna Beach numbered
from 300 to 500) was dubbed GALLERY ROW because of the great number of
galleries located there. Today more than a dozen display works of art
to suit all tastes. The FIRST THURSDAYS program (949/497- 0722), held
on the first Thursday of each month, is an art walk sponsored
by the city. Art lovers are shuttled around town to visit 35 different
galleries and enjoy the artworks as well as wine and refreshments. The
shuttle may be boarded outside the Laguna Museum at 6:35pm. Reservations
are not necessary. The LAGUNA MUSEUM (307 Cliff Drive, near the intersection
of North Coast Highway, just north of Laguna Canyon Road; 949/494-8971)
focuses on California art and artists, and on Laguna Beach as an art colony.
On First Thursday evenings its hours are extended and admission is free.
The village of Laguna Beach is best enjoyed on foot. There is ample metered
parking on its three main streets, which are one-way east to west. The
self-guided HERITAGE WALK AND TOUR OF LAGUNA is an excellent way to visit
the numerous charming and unusual boutiques and galleries while glimpsing
Laguna's historic past. Points of interest along the way include the Bette
Davis home, Cope House (built in 1887, it's the oldest structure in downtown
Laguna), and the Murphy-Smith Historical Bungalow, which was constructed
in 1923 and now displays local photos and artifacts. To pick up a map
for this interesting tour, drop by the LAGUNA
BEACH VISITORS CENTER (in the Transit Center, 252 Broadway, just east
of Beach Street; 949/497-9229). The LAGUNA PLAYHOUSE (606 Laguna Canyon
Road, next to the Irvine Bowl; 949/494-8021), which opened its doors in
1920, is one of Orange County's most reputable professional theaters.
The five-play main season runs from September to June.
Laguna Beach's main claim to fame may be its artist-colony status, but
beach life along its craggy coast thrives too. Each gorgeous beach- and
they're all gorgeous—from CAMEO COVE to the north to THREE ARCH
BAY to the south—offers a unique experience, and surfing, tanning,
volleyball, people-watching, and tide pool exploration as well. 1000 STEPS
BEACH, adored by locals for its rocky beach and surrounding steep bluffs,
is in the South Laguna area below Ninth Avenue. For more information on
the area's beaches, contact the Visitors Center (949/497-9229).
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