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RESTAU RANTS
Bistango / 3*
19100 VON KARMAN AVE, IRVINE; 949/752-5222
A happening scene ever since it opened in 1987, stylish Bistango continues
to attract the movers and shakers of corporate Irvine. A sprawling art
gallery, lively jazz club, and dashing restaurant fused together under
one atrium, Bistango hums with energy from lunch to happy hour to dinner
to late-night dancing. Austrian-born Chef Paul Gstrein offers a modern
take on continental cuisine, featuring such entrees as melt-in-your-mouth
tuna grilled rare on Asian vegetables with subtle sesame vinaigrette and
green horseradish, and juicy rack of lamb with mashed potatoes and a rich
port wine sauce. Daily specials always include one of the county's best-value
prix-fixe dinners. There's a long list of wood-oven pizzas, deservedly
favored by many. Weekly wine and champagne tastings are well run and a
great value for discriminating palates. $$$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks;
lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; Bistango@net999.com;
www.Bistango.com; ground floor of Atrium office complex.
Prego / 2.5*
18420 VON KARMAN AVE, IRVINE; 949/553-1333
Given its mundane location in the maze of corporate Irvine, it's rather
amazing that Prego oozes so much undiluted Italian style and spirit. Sleek
and chic (think Milan, not Florence), the inflect-ion here is utterly
Italian, from the pop songs and magazines in the bar to the dapper waiters
to the basket of grissini that begins every meal. All pastas are homemade
and of the highest quality; some of the best are spinach gnocchi with
gorgonzola, pumpkin tortelloni with mascarpone sauce, and lobster-filled
agnolotti with lemon sauce. Rotisserie meats (duck, rabbit, chicken) are
also handled well, and grilled items like veal chops, rack of lamb, and
flank steak round out the diverse menu. Crisp white linens, gleaming wood
floors, and low-slung banquette seating give the room an air of sophistication.
The executive crowd adds its own panache. $$$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks,
lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; between
Main St and Michelson Dr, entrance faces Michelson Dr.
Ruth's Chris Steak House / 2.5*
2961 M1CHELSON DR, IRVINE; 949/252-8848
The richly marbled USDA Prime and other premium cuts of steak here are
the best that money can buy. Midwest-bred and aged to exacting standards
are Ruth's Chris's claims to steak fame. They insist the reason portions
are so large—12 to 22 ounces—is because larger cuts retain
more natural juices during broiling. Cooked to your taste and delivered
sizzling in butter, the beef here is exceptionally tender and flavorful.
A variety of fresh vegetables, including seven styles of potato, salads
with made-fresh dressings, and homemade desserts complete the feast. More
relaxed than its chief competitor, Morton's of Chicago (you can leave
your suit jacket in the car), Ruth's Chris still retains a trace of its
easygoing New Orleans origins. Since the kitchen is out of sight and out
of earshot, the wood paneled room with its roomy leather booths is spared
the accompanying frenzy. Service is gracious and personalized. An extensive
wine list offers suitable bottles at nearly every price. Another location
of this national chain is on Beverly Drive in Beverly Hills (see the L.A.
Restaurants section). $$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; dinner every
day; full bar, reservations recommended; www.ruthschris.com; in Park Place
center,
offMichelson Dr at Jamboree Rd.
Trilogy / 2.5*
18201 VON KARMAN AVE, IRVINE; 949/955-0757
Tucked into Irvine's hyper-corporate zone, Trilogy succeeds by supplying
a warm, handsome gathering place that's short on attitude and long on
comfort. Muted acoustics allow easy conversation, even when a jazz combo
performs (generally Wednesday through Saturday). The owners label the
cuisine Creative American, though it also qualifies as New Continental.
Whatever the designation, it could also be dubbed scrumptious. The menu
offers a balanced mix of the fantastic and the familiar. Commendable starters
include spicy Maryland crab cakes with parsnip slaw and saffron aioli
or the rich corn chowder with rock shrimp and the mellow zing of chiles.
Entree choices are enticing: Pacific halibut in a golden crust of potato
slices with a side of "melted" leeks, crisp Muscovy duck breast
with tart cherries in a zinfandel reduction, or seared ahi enhanced with
smoked-trout hash and braised baby artichokes. The seasonally changing
menu is reinforced by a fitting wine list with some excellent by-the-glass
options. Service is adept without being overly mannered. When weather
permits, consider the green, serene, bamboo-
walled patio—one of the area's better outdoor rooms. $$$; AE, DC,
DIS, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat; full bar, reservations
recommended; between Main St and Michelson Dr w ground floor of TransAmerica
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