|
|
RESTAURANTS
The Cellar / 3*
305 N HARBOR BLVD. FULLERTON; 714/525-5682
Long the top choice for fine dining in Fullerton, the Cellar has weathered
over 30 years of culinary whims and trends to become a north county institution.
It all began in 1969, when Disneyland craftsmen fashioned a romantic cavern
in the cellar of the 1922 California Hotel (now the intimate Villa Del
Sol complex).Today chef David Kesler oversees a classically French menu
heavy with time-honored favorites like Dover soli meuniere, saufeed calf's
liver in Madeira butter sauce, chafeaubrianc with bearnaise sauce, and
venison medallions in cranberry-port sauce. Many a longtime county resident
savors the memory of a special-occasion dinner topped off with the Cellar's
superb chocolate or Grand Marnier souffle. Also of note is the extensive
wine selection of over 1,300 bottles, which has rightfully earned a Grand
Award from WineSpectator.
Though some modernists find the subterranean setting overly themed and
a bit dated, many more are easily beguiled by the candlelit space and
insist on booking tables near the fireplace months in advance. Top-notch,
European-style service adds to the air of romance and elegance here. $$$;
AE, DIS, DC, MC, V; no checks; dinner Tues-Sat; full bar; reservations
recommended.
Mulberry Street Ristorante / 2*
114 W WILSHIRE AVE, FULLERTON; 714/525-1056
Mulberry Street certainly doesn't feel like Orange County. This lively
neighborhood bar and restaurant offers a tempting (if basic) Italian menu
and something of a New York personality almost a trip back East for the
price of a meal. It's been open only since 1986, but Mulberry Street feels
like it's been there forever, thanks to dark wood, brick, and a notable
shortage of windows. Old friends, sociable warmth, good food, and white
tablecloths pretty much compose the scene here. The menu is a classic
Italian lineup emphasizing shellfish—clams, oysters, mussels, shrimp—plus
fresh fish specials each day. We like the cherrystone clams, either raw
on ice or with wine and garlic over linguine. But best bets aren't limited
to seafood: other commend-able choices include rich egg plant parmigiana,
veal piccata, and a solid fettuccine carbonara. The food here is consistently
solid even if it's rarely inspired. The compact wine roster is well chosen,
and there are some nice vintages by the glass. Service can be exceptional
or disastrous. Since the room appears to have no captain, request "your
best waiter" when you make reservations. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks;
lunch Mon-Sat, dinner every day; full bar; reser-
vations recommended.
|