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RESTAURANTS
Diva / 2.5*
600 ANTON BLVD. COSTA MESA; 714/754-0600
As any producer will tell you, divas are gorgeous, theatrical, enchanting,
and capricious, and this one is no exception. Just a short, pleasant walk
from the Orange County Performing Arts Center and the South Coast Repertory,
upscale Diva is a natural for pre- or post-theater dining with
a dramatic flourish. Seductively lit with a soaring ceiling and lavishly
adorned with jewel tones and an imposing gilded mirror, this is clearly
a Big Night Out destination. Featuring contemporary creations by Orange
County chef-entrepreneur John Sharpe (also of Bistro 201 and Topaz
Cafe), Diva's menu is organized into "small" and "large"
plates, such as the house seafood sampler and grilled hearts of romaine
with Stilton/port swirl (both small plates) and grilled prawns on spaghetti
squash or roast rack of lamb on wilted spinach with crisp fingerling potatoes
(large
plates). Appearances reign supreme here, from the sky-high food presentations
to the spiffily dressed waitstaffto the designer-clad diners. Kitchen
performance is solid (if slightly uninspired), but service is frustratingly
uneven, bouncing from adroit to amateurish. Live jazz on weekends
makes the lounge a stylish choice for nightcaps or dessert. $$$; AE, MC,
DC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat; full bar; Divascp®
aol.com; lobby level of Plaza Tower building.
The Golden Truffle / 2*
1767 NEWPORT BLVD, COSTA MESA; 949/645-9858
Maverick chef/owner Alan Greeley uncharacteristically understates his
position when he says "It's never boring here; we cook on the edge
Indeed, Greeley continues to excite chefs, foodies, and other daring souls
with his broadly eclectic cuisine. With a menu that bounces between "utility
foods" such as macaroni and cheese with black truffles and weekly
specials on regional, ethnic, or ingredient themes, diners should expect
the unexpected (duck tacos, veal dumplings). A decidedly unchic location
in a quirky strip mall hardly deters fans of this low-key bistro.
Insiders call ahead to be sure Greeley is in the kitchen. Also noteworthy
is Greeley's adventurous approach to his wine selections, featuring unsung
varietals from far-flung locales. $$$; AE, MC, V; no checks; lunch, dinner
Tues-Sat; beer and wine; reservations recommended; www.
thegoldentruffle.com; between 17th St and Industrial Wy.
Memphis /
2920 BRISTOL ST. COSTA MESA; 714/432.7685
Housed in a former tavern of dubious repute, Memphis preserves a bit
of the previous tenant's funkiness while adding a spin all its own. It's
pretty much Aunt Lizzie's kitchen meets Melrose Place and takes her act
to Orange County. The backbone of the compact menu here is Southern
cooking, updated with contemporary ingredients and the quirky vision of
chef-partner Diego Velasco. Diners here get a lot of talent on their plate
for little cash. A grilled center-cut pork chop is accompanied by grits
and a balsamic-cherry sauce. Creole shrimp gets its fire from chipotle
chile vinaigrette. Roasted chicken breast with mustard greens and grilled
corn is set off with a lemon-thyme sauce. The feisty gumbo is also a winner.
The scene is pretty basic—a simple room of spare tables, good tunes,
and retro touches. The mixed crowd stays jovial even when service fluctuates
from positively gracious to perfunctory. $$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks;
lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every day, brunch Sat and Sun; beer and wine; reservations
recommended; between Randolph and Baker Aves.
Pinot Provence / 1.5*
686 ANTON BLVD. COSTA MESA; 714/444-5900
Orange County foodies were positively giddy in 1998 when celebrity chef
Joachim Splichal, longtime darling of the L.A. gourmet scene, opened this
addition to his empire. Gastronomes familiar with Splichal's other efforts
(Patina in Hollywood, Pinto Bistro in Sherman Oaks, Pinot Hollywood) will
note that this bistro has its own distinct personality—that of a
Provencal chateau complete with village antiques, a mammoth fire place,
and a limestone archway. French-born Florent Marneau (formerly of Aubergine
and Pascal) is executive chef here, executing a novel menu divided between
Provencal dishes and those from other regions of France. Marneau, who
shops local farmers markets for the freshest ingredients, presents somewhat
lighter French fare than the bistro menus at other Splichalian haunts.
If you're lucky, it will include appetizers such
fff as a melange of marinated haricots verts, baked tomatoes, sauteed
fennel, quail egg-topped brioche, and a pungent olive tapenade; or perhaps
a sampling of seasoned olives; chilly raw oysters; or fritters of brandade,
a tasty salt-cod puree. Noteworthy entrees include heaven-scented lavender
lamb chops, tender rack of pork with cherries, and plats du jour such
as a hearty daube of stewed lamb shanks with couscous. Yellow striped
banquettes with pillows provide tasteful seating indoors, and two cozy
garden rooms make for lovely patio interludes. At press time the waitstaff
had not yet hit its professional stride, but management is earnest, and
the wine service supporting an inviting list can be quite expert. $$$;
AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; breakfast, lunch, dinner every day; full
bar; reservations recommended; in South Coast Plaza, facing Bristol St.
Sidestreet Cafe / 1*
1799 NEWPORT BLVD, COSTA MESA; 714/650-1986
Wedged into an offbeat shopping strip, Sidestreet Cafe is a tiny operation
with a big heart. One glance at the handwritten menu in this homey, A,
cheerful spot and it's clear breakfast is a passion here. Pages of appetizing
scrambles, egg sandwiches, omelets, burritos, and "griddle goodies"
make decisions difficult, and everything tastes even yummier than it sounds.
Typical items include roasted corn cakes, spicy chorizo and eggs (including
the essential beans, rice, and tortillas), and diced ham scramble loaded
with cheese plus taters and toast. Rightfully billed as "huge and
delicious," the cinnamon roll proved too big for two—but what
a way to indulge. Hearty eaters will appreciate "Soul Food"
platters of robust stuff like sirloin tidbits and eggs covered with mushroom-wine
sauce. A loyal following creates long waits for only 40 or so seats. To
avoid delays, come weekdays, or early (before Sam) or late (after 2pm)
on weekends.
$; no credit cards; checks OK; breakfast, lunch every day; no alcohol;
reservations not accepted; between 17th St and Industrial Wy.
Troquet / 3.5*
333 BRISTOL ST, COSTA MESA; 714/708-6865
Troquet is a bistro in the finest sense. Neither hectic nor noisy, it's
a poised, seductive room where time slows and astute patrons savor the
area's best French cuisine. Unlike some of Orange County's French restaurants,
there is no worn-out reverence for all things Gallic; but chef-owner Tim
Goodell's considerable talent is evident on every plate. He and wife Liza
(also a chef, and the designer of the sensuous setting) have rapidly vaulted
to the top of the culinary scene with their newest try. Originally the
creators behind Aubergine (the tiny Newport Beach bistro with a big reputation),
the duo closed their first effort to open this larger spot, awash in amber
lighting, vintage French liquor posters, and fine crystal. One can easily
build an impressive repast just from the many appetizer offerings, such
as a tart of plump escargots and wild mushrooms with a pungent "
herb salad, or prawns wrapped in prosciutto atop fragrant curried couscious.
As for entrees, options are dazzling. From potato-wrapped salmon with
baby artichokes to crisp veal sweetbreads with sauteed leeks to an impeccably
roasted chicken with perfect pommes frites, each plate is an indulgence.
True foodies will fancy Troquet's tasting menu, several small courses
that showcase the kitchen's many fortes. This is one of Orange
County's few such menus—a special event with great value (you can
drive to L.A. and pay more for less). Desserts are mostly divine, and
the cheese platter positively seduces. $$$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks;
lunch, dinner Mon-Sat; full bar; reservations recommended; third floor
on the north side of South Coast Plaza near Nordstrom, near Sunflower
Ave.
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