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RESTAURANTS
xfire / **•<?• ______
5717 E SANTA ANA CANYON RD, ANAHEIM HILLS; 714/974-5400
What used to be a rather ho-hum restaurant is now a strong player in
the north county's fine dining scene, thanks to a completely retooled
menu and the talents of chef Eric Nguyen. The current menu is a spirited,
distinctly up-to-date take on continental cuisine. Beef, lamb, duck, pork,
game, shellfish, and seafood all receive tempting treatments and are well
supported by side items that add interest and dimension. Tea-smoked duck
is sided with grilled pears and wild rice pancakes stacked with creamed
turnips and dressed with a cherry-port sauce, and pan-roasted
lotte (a.k.a. monkfish) medallions are matched by crab-corn-risotto cakes
topped with fresh spinach. Foxfire's setting has changed less than its
menu: it remains a rambling series of smaller rooms that feel more intimate
than the total square footage would suggest. Service varies consid-
erably from server to server. Another warning: Dinner is Foxfire's forte,
and lunch often falls short. The lively adjoining lounge attracts mostly
baby-boomer singles. $$$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner
every day, brunch Sun; full bar; reservations recommended;
www.foxfire.com; at Imperial Hwy.
Mr. Stox / 2.5*
1105 E KATELLA AVE, ANAHEIM; 714/634-2994
Open since 1967, Mr. Stox could well be labeled an Old Reliable, but
that would understate this restaurant's obvious enthusiasm for change
and ever-higher levels of excellence. The current menu illustrates how
well Mr. Stox blends the fresh with the familiar. Chef Scott Raczek has
a
gift for taking a basic like certified Angus beef culotte steak and gussying
it up with red wine, caramelized onions, and a rosemary potato roll, or
for siding mesquite-grilled swordfish with pesto risotto, grilled vegetables,
and roasted red chili oil. Also on the menu are lamb, duck, rabbit, and
several seafood selections. If you're fond of authentic crab cakes, order
them here; the owners, former Marylanders Ron and Debbie Mar shall, are
justifiably proud of their lump-meat crab cakes, served on a light Dijon
sauce with a medley of garden vegetables and peppered potatoes. Entrees
are supported by incredible site-baked breads and an exquisite, widely
praised wine cellar. Add polished service and tranquil, sumptuous surroundings,
and you have an experience worth repeating for another three decades.
$$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every day; full
bar; reservations recommended; between State College Blvd and Levis St.
Thee White House / 2.5*
887 S ANAHEIM BLVD, ANAHEIM; 714/772-1381
Old World elegance applied to service, setting, and cuisine is the specialty
at this restored 1909 Colonial-style home once surrounded by orange groves.
Since 1987 Paris-born Bruno Serato has earned a loyal following by gracefully
serving a Northern Italian menu (with a few French items tucked in) to
those in search of a fine meal near Disneyland. Diners enjoy a choice
of candlelit rooms with Victorian decor, though service seems most attentive
downstairs (tables near the fireplace are highly coveted).
Steak, veal, lamb, and pasta choices include all the standards we've seen
before, but a capable kitchen does justice to every dish. Examples include
filet mignon with baked polenta, caramelized shallots and thyme-scented
veal reduction, or Italian potato dumplings in a silky Gorgonzola sauce.
The widely praised wine list features over 200 California and European
vintages, offering top choices befitting the many special occasions celebrated
here. $$$; AE, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every day; full
bar; reservations recommended; ww.imenu.com/theewhite house; between Ball
Rd and Lincoln Ave
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