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RESTAURANTS
The Burger Factory / 1*
333 S INDIAN CANYON DR, PALM SPRINGS; 760/322-7678
Chat to a customer seated next to you at the counter in this 1960s-feeling
burger joint and you might discover he's driven down from Hollywood for
the day—and for the burger. The mainstay menu item here is the Kong—a
massive one-pound flattened softball of ground beef chargrilled and hugged
by lettuce, tomato, onion. Thousand Island dressing, pickle, and a big
bun. Their Hunk-Uh-Hunk-Of-Burning-Love/Elvis Burger stacks ground beef,
ham, pastrami, bacon, and grilled onions between slices of grilled sourdough
bread. The Great Balls of Fire/Jerry Lee Lewis Burger is nearly aflame
with three different hot sauces and jalapeno peppers in addition to the
usual burger accoutrements. Decor here reflects owner Louise Reymer's
penchant for Elvis-this and Elvis that, as well as pictures of celebrity
customers such as rapper/actor Ice Cube. Turkey burgers and veggie burgers
are also excellent. The really cool thing about the Burger Factory? Its
hours: it stays open until 4am Friday and Saturday nights. $; No credit
cards; no checks; lunch, dinner every day; beer and wine; reservations
not necessary; www.burgerfactory.com; nearest cross streets Baristo Rd
and Ramon Rd.
Kaiser Grille / 2*
205 S PALM CANYON DR, PALM SPRINGS; 760/323-1003
74225 HWY III, PALM DESERT; 760/779.1988
You won't find wiener schnitzel at Kaiser Grille. Named for owner Kaiser
Morcus, the restaurant exemplifies a new energy and spirit in the Coachella
Valley that makes some of the more haute valley restaurants seem stuffy.
Here the clientele is a little more bare-shouldered, the collars a little
more open, and the laughter a little louder than in the clubbier valley
restaurants where geriatric decorum rules the evening. At the downtown
Palm Springs location, two open-air dining terraces jut into the sidewalk
like the prows of twin ships. During blast-furnace summer
months, micromisters up in the metal-finned roofline cool diners with
their wispy fog. At night, diners see (and are seen by) a constant parade
of passers-by, but the food commands center stage. Prime rib arrives in
a thick fork-tender slab (it can also be ordered blackened, Cajun style).
Fish lovers have the unusual option of a "mixed grill" showcasing
three different filets. Sauces are rich, and often based on a classic
beurre blanc flavored with either mango or local citrus juices. Grilled
steak is a specialty, served with heaps of fresh steamed vegetables and
mashed potatoes. The only thing better than sitting outside is sitting
inside, where you can see the activity in the huge open kitchen. There
is a second location in Palm Desert. $$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks;
dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; corner of Arenas
Rd. Av
Las Casuelas Terraza / 1*
111 S PALM CANYON DR, PALM SPRINGS (AND BRANCHES); 760/325-2794
Started in 1958 by Florencio and Mary Delgado, Las Casuelas has been
a downtown Palm Springs institution virtually from the beginning. President
Dwight Eisenhower was a regular customer, fueling up on Mary's tamales
after his golf rounds. Liz Taylor, George Montgomery, Bob Hope, and Dinah
Shore all plunked down for big combination plates of enchiladas, tacos,
and burritos. The liveliest of their three locations, Las Casuelas Terraza
draws its energy off the heavy foot traffic of Palm Canyon Drive. A big
palapa-fringed bar and patio opens to the street,
and live music pumps out from here as strongly as the straight shots of
aged tequilas. If you love black beans Oaxacan style you'll enjoy the
black bean "pizza" (really a tostada) with chicken. Unfortunately,
Las Casuelas in general seems to have succumbed to too many tourist requests
for mildness and offers few dishes that capture a sense of authenticity
or innovation. (One of the burrito styles is a rather odd bland , packet
loaded with diced potatoes and celery.) So why come here? For the Spanish
Colonial decor, the crowd, the indoor-outdoor feel, the music, and the
great location. Additional locations at Las Casuelas The Original, 368
N Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; 760/325-3213, and Las Casuelas Nuevas,
70-050 Highway 111, Rancho Mirage; 760/328- 8844. $$; AE, DC, DIS, MC,
V; no checks; lunch, dinner every day; full
bar; reservations recommended; at Arenas Rd.
Le Vallauris / 3*
385 W TAHQUITZ CANYON WY, PALM SPRINGS; 760/325-5059 OR 888/525-5852
Named for the small town in the south of France where Picasso took to
making pottery later in life, Le Vallauris successfully combines uncompromising
elegance with the informality of dining alfresco. The restaurant occupies
an historic ranch-style house not far from the hubbub of
Palm Canyon Drive (but seemingly a world apart), its ficus-shaded exterior
seeming almost too understated—except for the covey of valet parked
Rollses and Mercedeses. Step through the door, however, and you're in
a magical setting of indoor and outdoor spaces. The patio cap-
italizes on Palm Springs' fabulous winter weather. Outdoor tables are
set with linens and fine china, and with stars overhead, cool night air,
and candles aglow you sense that this is indeed a special dining space.
Interior rooms are equally pleasing, with draped alcoves and fine paintings.
Belgian-born owner Paul Bruggeman earned his stars operating St. Germain
on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles (the site now occupied by equally famed
Patina), and the menu, overseen by executive chef Jean Paul Lair, reflects
Bruggeman's love of what he calls "contemporary
French/Mediterranean" cuisine—with some Southwest overtones
befitting his 40 years in Southern California. The menu is an extravagant
journey. One can start with beluga caviar, or terrine of foie gras, or
light, crisp crab cakes with whole-grain mustard sauce. Lamb lovers will
yield willingly to a perfectly roasted rack, well seasoned in the classic
manner with garlic and thyme, or, at lunch, to the more adventuresome
marinated grilled lamb loin with sesame sauce. The veal chop with pommes
souffles is one of Southern California's best. The fish here, either seared
or sauteed, accompanied by inventive sauces such as a citrus dressing
or red chili sauce, is so buttery and fresh it seems the ocean must be
nearly next door. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; checks OK; lunch, dinner every
day, brunch Sun; full bar; reservations recommended; vallauris@aol. corn;
wwiv.levallauris.com; from Palm Canyon Dr go 3 blocks toward
the mountains on W Tahquitz Canyon Wy.
St. James at the Vineyard / 3*
265 S PALM CANYON DR, PALM SPRINGS; 760/320-8041
Palm Springs's most interesting dinner menu fuses Pacific Rim, French,
Indian Ocean, and American steak house cuisines in a unique style born
of owner James Offord's love of travel. Although Offord has now turned
over the kitchen to chefJohannes Bacher, the two are on the same page
when it comes to delicious combinations. An endive, Asian pear, water
cress, and grape salad will begin a meal on a perfect cool note if outside
temperatures are soaring. But whatever the season, St. James turns up
the heat with its well-known curries, including their standard-bearers—
chicken, shrimp, or vegetable—as well as special ones like an ostrich
and
Chinese long bean curry served over steamed jasmine rice. Presentations
are wonderful Jackson Pollock-like scatters of color. Other entrees include
a stir-fried lobster tail over couscous (very pricey), a grilled lamb
rack with vanilla-infused reduction, or a fabulous Bouillabaisse Burmese
that immerses a bounty of seafood in a sauce enlivened with ginger, pineapple,
lime juice, lotus root, and cardamom. After all these flavors you'll probably
be too exhausted for dessert. Service is attentive but unhurried; feel
free to enjoy a meal that will last several hours. The bar featuring almost
a hundred folk art masks on the walls, is downtown's most sophisticated
watering hole, and the restaurant's wine list boasts a Wine Spectator
Award of Excellence. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; dinner every
day in high season, Tues-Sun in June, Thurs-Sun in July and Aug; full
bar; reservations recommended; www.st-james.com; in the rear of the Vineyard
shopping center.
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