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LODGINGS
Coyote Inn / 2*
234 S PATENCIO RD, PALM SPRINGS; 760/327-0304 OR 888/334-0633
Within walking distance of downtown Palm Springs, the Coyote Inn has
all the feel of a half-century-old classic little Spanish courtyard inn
except that the spotless little Coyote is virtually brand new. The walled
and gated enclave shelters only seven tile-roofed suites, each with full
kitchen (including dishwasher), library, small dining table, sitting area,
fireplace, and comfortable, firm beds. Rooms all look out on the court
yard and pool, so the inn has a great sense of community (which can be
a bit of a downside, however, if you're looking for privacy or anonymity.)
From the pool, you look straight up at the mountains, making this one
of Palm Springs's best lodgings in which to enjoy the beauty of the desert.
A hidden garden spa is great for a before-bed soak. $$; AE, DC, MC, V;
no checks; www.springs.gardeninns.com; from Palm Canyon Dr (Hwy 111),
take Arenas Rd towards the mountains and turn left on Patencio Rd.
Korakia Pensione / 3*
257 S PATENCIO RD, PALM SPRINGS; 760/864-6411
Located on a quiet side street within walking distance of downtown, Korakia
immediately transports a visitor to a Moroccan oasis. Scottish artist
Gordon Courts built the white-walled, wedding cake-like house in 1924
as a retreat and salon for his many artistic and intellectual friends.
A fantasy then, it remains a grand stage set today. (A Mediterranean villa
directly across the street with cocoa-brown walls, tile roof, and palm
fringed eaves has also joined the Korakia ensemble.) Current owner, Doug
Smith virtually invented the term "restorative designer" with
his
^ knack for making every room wildly hip; he lives in each room, waiting
for his muse, before remodeling. Decor may include giant hand-carved four-poster
beds draped in mosquito netting, campaign furniture, and African and Balinese
influences. Smith travels the world frequently, and
his inn has become a visual journal of his jaunts. Numerous fireplaces
lend a magical warmth on cold winter nights. Continental breakfast is
served in the walled entry patio to the full-throated accompaniment of
15 lovebirds and parakeets. Kitchenettes for light cooking are stocked
with Haagen-Dazs ice cream, baguettes, and Brie, leaving one to ponder,
What more does one need? $$$-$$$$; no credit cards; checks OK; closed
July 15-Labor Day; from Palm Canyon Dr (Hwy 111) take Arenas Rd 4 blocks
west to S Patencio Rd, then left.
The Willows Historic Palm Springs Inn / 3.5*
412 W TAHQUITZ CANYON WY, PALM SPRINGS; 760/320-0771
Everything glorious about Palm Springs's past—its history as a
glamorous getaway, intellectual haven, nature sanctuary, and rejuvenative
spa—lives on at The Willows. The eight-room inn was built in 1927
as a private estate. New York attorney and multimillionaire Samuel Untermyer
bought it soon thereafter and massaged it into elegant perfection. Today
the house steps up a hillside above old Palm Springs, its Tuscan yellow
walls, red-tile roofs,and multiple terraces tango-ing in and out of Kit-
a grove of tall palms, fringed willows, and the stone mountainside itself.
Owners Tracy Conrad and Paul Marut, both emergency-room doctors with a
penchant for architectural triage, purchased the house in 1994. According
to Conrad, it was but a forlorn husk of its days when Albert Einstein
spent weeks visiting Untermyer, when Clark Gable and Carole
Lombard hid away for a honeymoon, and when in the 1950s, Marion Davies,
mistress of William Randolph Hearst, owned it and converted the only kitchen
to a bar. Today every surface and every furnishing has been restored,
from door hinges to flagstones. Rooms are large and taste fully furnished
with fine antiques. Each terrace reveals a view of gardens and the ragged
curtain of mountains beyond. A 50-foot waterfall burbles down the mountainside
into the breakfast patio. The inn's full-time staff serves a glorious
breakfast (the bread pudding with walnut and berry sauce is heaven, accompanied
by scrambled eggs with chevre and chives)
and keeps the service intuitively unintrusive without being stuffy. No
visitors roam the grounds (although many ask). At twilight, as the desert
cools, guests gather in an open veranda room beneath a Moroccan-arched
ceiling to sip wine and enjoy hors d'oeuvres. At bedtime (after a day
of swimming and reading), the crisp cotton sheets welcome your tanned
skin, and the open terrace doors to your room admit the hushed twitters
of birds settling in for a night in the palms. As are you. $$$$; AE, DC,
DIS, MC, V; checks OK; www.thewillowspalmsprings.com; 2 blocks toward
mountains off Palm Canyon Dr (Hwy 111), across from Le Vallauris.
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