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RESTAURANTS
The Daily Grill / 1*
73-061 EL PASEO, PALM DESERT; 760/779-9911
Heaps of hot, salty shoestring fries obscure your superb bacon, lettuce,
and tomato sandwich. Sips from a rich, amber pint of cold Anchor Steam
beer chill your desert-parched throat. You could be in San Francisco,
but you're not. Soon you'll step back outside into the unmistakable heat
of the low desert, but for now you and other diners in the busy lunchtime
crowd are ensconced within mahogany walls and served by a white aproned
waitstaff. That's the plus side of the Daily Grill. And the minus side?
That very same sense of tradition: the Grill's formula has been transplanted
to Palm Desert by marketing types who've also opened several other branches
around the Southland. It feels slick and planned. Yet though such formulaic
restaurants never give you a sense of spontaneity, they can still offer
up a good meal. Dinners range from large, savory char broiled burgers,
chicken pot pies, and broiled half chickens to more complex dishes such
as chicken Marsala or broiled shrimp pomodoro with angel hair pasta. Although
the place isn't open for breakfast, an early lunch here offers breakfast
items such as a Joe's Special (egg, spinach, onion, and hamburger scramble),
eggs Benedict, bacon and eggs, and an omelet filled with Cobb ingredients.
$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; lunch, dinner every day, brunch Sun;
full bar; reservations not neces- sary; www.dailygrill.com; from Hivy
111, turn south on Monterey Ave and drive 1 block.
Jillian's / 3*
74-155 EL PASEO, PALM DESERT; 760/776-8242
Beauty without pretension makes Jillian's a real find amidst desert resort
ilV bistros that cater to the well-heeled crowd. The decor here is elegantly
rustic, with cottage-y dining rooms, doors, windows, and porches that
open up to a magical center court where palms lit with twinkle lights
seem like pillars holding up the night sky. Proprietors Jay and June Trubee
are well known in the desert for starting Cunard's in La Quinta (now the
La Quinta Grill) in 1986 for the Cunard family. They moved on to open
Jillian's in 1994, and to this day Jay does the honors in the kitchen.
He trained at the Culinary Institute in Hyde Park, and his style is robust
Americana, but with a strong emphasis on homemade pastas. All are made
fresh daily and include such favorites as cannel-loni—delicate tubes
filled with four imported cheeses and served with a tomato tinted cream
sauce. Rack of lamb is another tour de force: a Colorado rack crusted
with seasoned breadcrumbs and served with a demi-glace scented with home-grown
rosemary. Whitefish Dijonnaise arrives on a bed of mashed potatoes beneath
a Pomeray-mustard hollandaise. Desserts are made on the premises (as are
all breads). Jay's Hawaiian cheesecake has been featured in Gourmet magazine;
its macadamia nut crust provides a little crunch beneath a creamy filling,
pineapple topping, and fresh raspberry sauce. $$$; AE, DC, MC, V; local
checks only; dinner every day in season, closed Jun-early Oct; full bar;
reservations recommended; jillians@local.net; near Larrea St.
Jovanna's / 2.5*
74063 HWY III, PALM DESERT; 760/568- 1315
Jovanna Cruz is everywhere: in the kitchen, at the front door, on the
out door dining porch, in the back room. In her small, narrow restaurant—
very much like a New York Italian eatery, where space is so tight the
waitstaff brush past each other back to back—Jovanna fills the space
like
the outgoing, hearty Philadelphian she is. She earned her chef's stripes
at her parents' 1,800-meal-a-night restaurant in Acapuico, often putting
in 18-hour days. Her pasta dishes are deli-cious, generous mountains of
flavor, especially a chicken edifice of sauteed chicken tenders in a creamy
basil sauce topped with bay shrimp and served over a bed of pasta. Osso
buco is always on the menu, and her lamb in marsala sauce served over
risotto or pasta merits mopping the plate with more bread to get every
last rich drop. Cap your meal with one of her seasonal creme brulees:
eggnog during the holidays, orange liqueur in spring, toasted coconut
in summer, pumpkin in fall. At press time she is changing her menu to
give more emphasis to California-Italian bistro cuisine, but she promises
to keep many of the old favorites. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks; dinner Wed-Sun
(Wed-Sat in Aug); full bar; reservations recommended; near Portola Ave
on the south side ofHwy 111.
Keedy's Fountain & Grill / 1*
73633 HWY III, PALM DESERT; 760/346-6492
Also known as "Keedy's Fix," this classic cafe and its burgers
haven't changed an iota since Bob Keedy established the joint in 1957.
When he threatened to close the place in 1987 and retire, locals Bob and
Patty Downs stepped in, bought it, and kept almost everything the same.
They
haven't even replaced the Formica on the counter, where 40-plus years
of plates being slid in front of customers has all but worn the color
off. You know the menu: classic American break-fast and lunch standards
like omelets, BLTs, burgers, and patty melts. But a little bit of Mexico
sneaks in. Try a menudo and tortillas special, spicy came asada, or any
of the classic enchilada-taco combos. Breakfast boasts more than a bit
of Mex, too, with huevos rancheros, chorizo and eggs, and machaca (shredded
beef and eggs). The heart-attack classic is still great: a triple-decker
burger with bacon, along with a milk shake from the fountain. On your
way out, take some time to look over the magazine photo collages on the
wall. Americana—you gotta love it. $; AE, DIS, MC, V; no checks;
breakfast, lunch every day; no alcohol; reservations not accepted; just
off the south side of Hwy 111.
Native Foods /1.5 *
73-890 EL PASEO, PALM DESERT; 760/836-9396
1775 E PALM CANYON DR, PALM SPRINGS; 760/416-0070
Native Foods feeds on the energy of co-owner Tanya Petrovna and her passion
for vegetarian cooking with an international slant. The Bali Burger may
sound like just another veggie patty, but Tanya makes it from scratch,
then enlivens it with caramelized onions and guacamole (you can
also order it blackened Cajun style). Big salads come out of the kitchen
like baskets full of produce from a garden. Most unusual is the Jamaican
Jerk Steak salad, a seitan "steak" (a vegetarian alternative
to meat) over jasmine rice and romaine with flamed banana salsa. Tacos
are another specialty, and they've gained fame among locals whose visiting
friends are convinced that the tasty soy-based filling must be ground
beef. Dinner entrees are hearty and require a few more trenching tools
than ten fingers: try the baked yam topped with steamed vegetables, or
I Love Lucy's Lasagna, whose pasta layers burst with squash, tofu, roasted
eggplant and peppers, garlic cloves, spinach, and mushrooms. Decor is
as much fun as the food: giant African-motif masks cover the walls. The
crowd is hip, healthy, and every age from toddling to tottering. For dessert,
tofu- based creamy dressing over carrot cake gets its zest from oranges,
and Elephant's Revenge combines chocolate, coconut, and peanut butter
in a rich, cinnamon-spiced cake. There is a second location in Palm Springs.
$; no credit cards; checks OK; lunch, dinner Mon-Sat; no alcohol; reservations
not accepted; www.palmsprings.com/health/nativefoods; a few steps off
El Paseo near San Luis Rey Ave.
DESERT FORE!
Nowhere on earth do so many golf courses (almost 100) cluster
in such dose proximity as in California's low desert. The improbability
of the setting may well be its main attraction: lush fairways
nestling amidst sun-scorched sand and rock, while a purple curtain
of mountains rises like a silent playing partner watching your
every drive. The experience can be intensely artificial, yet oddly
naturalistic and satisfying at the same time. Serious golfers
don't care much about analyzing their addiction, however. They
want ; answers: Who designed the course? What is rts siope rating
and reputation among players? What pro tournaments has it hosted?
When can I get on? And how much will a round cost?
In Palm Springs and other resort cities, that last element can
add up fast. Most greens fees run in the $ 100-and-up range during
the cooler winter and spring seasons. Fees ; .over $200 per round
are not unheard of. At the same time, you can still get on numerous
public courses for $50 or less. A course's name tells you little
about its exdusivity or openness. Many "clubs" are open
to the public—essentially public courses. Resorts often
have their own courses, and guests have priority. To sort out
some of the mystery, visiting golfers often either turn to their
hotel concierge (most concierges have "ins" with various
nearby courses for tee times) or
contact booking agencies directly. For a list of current, reliable
agencies, contact Palm Springs Visitors Information Center (2781
North Palm Canyon Drive: 800/347-7746). They also have information
on "passbooks" offering multiple-course discounts, PGA
1 tournament schedules (if you enjoy being a spectator), and even
golf guides who speak Japanese.
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