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Indian
Wells
LODGINGS
Renaissance Esmeralda Resort / 3*
44-400 INDIAN WELLS LANE, INDIAN WELLS; 760/773-4444 OR 800/552-4386
Taking its architectural cue from the surrounding peaks, Renaissance
Esmeralda is a series of mountainous, but dramatically modern and stylish,
buildings organized around a central courtyard shaded by stately Canary
Island palms. The courtyard's centerpiece is an immense pool com- plete
with a sandy beach that actually slopes into the water. The 560 rooms
and suites amidst seven-story buildings are some of the largest in the
valley. All have private balconies and are decorated in schemes of mauve
that echoes the mountains' hues at sunset. Deluxe rooms include
corner arrangements with windows on two walls, but one of the pair is
behind a disconcerting grid that's part of the exterior ornamentation.
Ask for a room with a view of the mountains to the west, or at the very
least to the north or south; east side rooms have a much less interesting
vista.
Esmeralda's soaring atrium lobby is too huge to be friendly, and the decor
is unabashedly ritzy. But with two 18-hole championship golf courses designed
by Ted Robinson, extensive health club and spa services, four tennis courts,
and in-room coffee and newspaper every morning, no one's complaining.
Sirocco restaurant, featuring Mediterranean cuisine, is one of the prettiest
spaces for dining in the desert. Overall service at Esmeralda is polished
and worldly, as befits a hotel that hosts major corporate functions. On
the other hand, the place can feel too businesslike for the vacationing
family—despite its sandy beach. $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; no
checks; www.renaissancehotels.com; located off Hwy 111.
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