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RESTAURANTS

Ago / 2.5*

8478 MELROSE AVE, WEST HOLLYWOOD; 323/655-6333

With Robert De Niro, Ridley Scott, Miramax's Weinstein brothers, and other heavy hitters backing this super-trendy Italian restaurant, it's no surprise that it's an "industry" hangout. In fact, the stylish split-level dining room, with its open kitchen, brick wood-burning oven, and sleek bar, offers the perfect balance of visible yet intimate dining—a plus for the high-profile crowd who like a little of both. But executive chef (and partner) Agostino Sciandri, formerly ofToscana, and his inventive Italian cuisine are what truly make this restaurant a culinary favorite. While Sciandri's fare melds influences from Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna, and Liguria, his straightforward execution is sublime in such recent dishes as baby artichoke salad drizzled with olive oil and topped with shaved Parmesan cheese and walnuts, or veal wrapped with fontina cheese and asparagus on a mound of creamy mashed potatoes. And the man knows how to do risotto; the wild mushroom variation is respectfully al dente and pure heaven with every forkful. But the linguine with veal ragii, spaghetti with scampi and pumpkin flowers, and grilled salmon topped with a smart lemon-caper sauce are also good enough to ease the pain of the sure-to-be-hefty dinner bill. To end the evening, indulge in the creamy tiramisu. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; at La Cienega Blvd.

Alto Palato / 2*

755 N LA CIENEGA BLVD. WEST HOLLYWOOD; 310/657-9271

While this modern trattoria's high ceilings, colorful artwork, and sleek two-level design are in keeping with the neighborhood's fashionable art galleries and boutique furniture stores, the cuisine at Alto Palato is strictly classic Italian. Chef Paolo Monti delivers some of the best pizza this side of Rome; try one slice of his crisp, thin-crusted, wood-fired pies and you'll be a believer. Purists love the Margherita pizza's zesty sauce, fresh tomatoes, and smoke-infused crust; or the Siciliana, topped with grilled zucchini and the perfect amount of smoked mozzarella. There's
life beyond designer pizza, though, and it comes in such dishes as lasagne a la Napoleon, a garlicky vegetable tart, and tender lamb shanks bathed in a fragrant red wine sauce. If the chef offers the special of thinly sliced filet of beef sauteed with arugula and garnished with white asparagus, order it; it always triggers praises throughout the dining room. $$; AE,
DC, MC, V; no checks; lunch Fri, dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; between Melrose Ave and Santa Monica Blvd.

Arnie Norton's of Chicago / 3*

435 S LA CIENEGA BLVD. WEST HOLLYWOOD; 310/246-1501

Morton's is generally considered to be the best steak house in Chicago, and in the realm of all things carnivorous, the L.A. outpost of the national chain is equally reputed. The kitchen of namesake Arnie Morton, father of Hard Rock owner Peter Morton, serves truly out standing cuts of meat—along with expertly prepared cocktails and appropriately paired wines in a masculine (leather, brass, wood) setting. But perhaps the most enjoyable aspect of a red-meat rendezvous here (aside from the dinner itself) is the waitstaff's four-minute presentation,
during which they wheel out a cart teeming with Saran-wrapped cuts of beef and explain each one and its optional preparations. (Usually, perhaps for the heck of it, there's a lobster there too.) The overwhelming— and unintentionally humorous—display falls somewhere between a flight attendant's safety instructions and a QVC sales pitch. Invariably, though, the end result is an excellent huge cut of beef, perfectly prepared; it's served with heaping portions of spuds, spinach, and corn. Expect to pay handsomely for the honor of inhaling all this protein, and to leave very well fed. $$$; AE, MC, V; local checks only; dinner only, every day; full
bar; reservations recommended; 1 long block north of Wilshire Blvd.

Authentic Cafe / 1.5*

7605 BEVERLY BLVD. LOS ANGELES; 323/939-4626

Chef Roger Hayot's highly eclectic American-Southwestern-Chinese cafe is a casual and colorful eatery with a line waiting outside day in and day out. In fact, when the restaurant doubled in size, the line became even longer, and with good reason: Hayot serves large portions of very good food at very low prices. This is also a fine spot for people-watching,
meeting, and greeting, as diners compare notes concerning the tamales versus the dumplings, powerfully spicy tortilla soup versus down-home chicken pot pie, and tortilla-crusted chicken versus jerked pork chops. Weekend brunch sidesteps the same old stuff with such in-demand entrees as chilaquiles (scrambled eggs, cheese, chiles, and tortillas) and the knockout grilled chicken salad. $; AE, MC, V; no checks; lunch, dinner every day; beer and wine; reservations not accepted; north side ofBeverly Blvd east of Fairfax Ave.

The Beach House /2.5*

100 W CHANNEL ROAD, PACIFIC PALISADES; 310/454-8299

If you're not fortunate enough to have a friend who has great dinner parties at his beach house, dining at this casually elegant eatery is the next best thing. Restaurateur Liz Utter, former co-owner of La Cachette, has created a cozy, romantic room across from the beach with white walls, plenty of flickering candles, and wood shutters separating the dining room from the bustling bar area. While playful seaside fare is on the menu here—from jumbo bowls of clam and mussel steamers and seafood chowder to barbecued baby back ribs and a fresh cod bouillabaisse-style fish pot—a selection of more complex American-style dishes is offered as well. Starters like the warm tomato tart with goat cheese and fresh herbs
and the flaky wild mushroom turnover score big points, as do such entrees as a flavorful ginger-crusted salmon served on a bed of lentils, and pan-seared boneless brook trout with a zesty lemongrass nage. Desserts like warm fruit cobblers and jumbo ice cream sundaes take comfort food to new heights. While you can't ogle views of the Pacific from The Beach
House, the staff of bronzed Adonises who look like they surf (and audition) by day is scenery enough. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; dinner Tues-Sun; full bar; reservations required; at Pacific Coast Highway.

The Belvedere / 3*

9882 SANTA MONICA BLVD, BEVERLY HILLS; 310/788-2306

The Belvedere at the Peninsula Beverly Hills Hotel, under executive chef Bill Bracken, draws locals and guests alike with its lovely, formal setting and colorful and creative cuisine of the California-Asian persuasion. The dining room is where power players come to breakfast on everything from homemade granola and oatmeal brulee to a lobster-and-avocado frittata with charred tomato salsa. At lunch and dinner in the elegant, European-style room, Bracken offers eclectic dishes, from a curry scented bisque of butternut squash and lobster to potato-crusted Chilean sea bass in ah orange reduction with fresh dill. Yet while swordfish,
salmon, and beef medallions are available in appealing preparations, Bracken doesn't forget the simple pleasures: his menu also includes a half pound Angus beef burger, complete with grilled onions and Tillamook cheddar. Patio seating allows diners to enjoy the property's lushly land scaped grounds—and is much in demand by smokers who can't get used
to the California law prohibiting smoking in restaurants and bars. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; breakfast, lunch, dinner every day; reservations recommended; pbh@peninsula.com; between Wilshire Blvd and Lasky Dr.

Border Grill / 2.5*

1445 4TH ST, SANTA MONICA; 310/451-1655

Owned and operated by Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken, the nationally famous duo known as the Too Hot Tamales on their Food Network television program, Border Grill is large, colorful, and loud— and has some of the best Latin food north of the border. Feniger and Milliken began with a tiny version of Border Grill on Melrose in 1985, and then moved on to the larger City Restaurant before opening in 1990 this much larger Border Grill, which reflects their love of all things Latin.

Architect Josh Schweitzer (Milliken's husband) designed the playful space to match their creative cuisine. There's a daily fresh ceviche, green corn tamales, and plantain empanadas among the appetizers. Signature entrees include the pescado veracruzano—tender sea bass in a broth laden with rice, olives, and herbs; and sauteed rock shrimp with toasted ancho chiles, slivered garlic, and seared greens. One delight all diners can look forward to is the array of zesty salsas, which are accompanied by chips. The bar is well stocked with top tequilas, as well as an exotic, smoky mescal called Encantado, and boasts an attractive social scene. $$;
AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; lunch Tues-Sun, dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; mail@bordergrill.com; www.border grill.corn; between Broadway and Santa Monica Blvd.

Boxer / 2.5*

7615 W BEVERLY BLVD. LOS ANGELES; 323/932-6178

Boxer's interior may be minimalist as a bento box, but the atmosphere is warm, flavors are lively, and prices are reasonable—enough so that avid fans describe it as a slice of San Francisco in the City of Fallen Angels.
The cooking is California Quirky, with a cast of characters in the kitchen that's changed with some regularity over the years. The latest chef is Philip Dubois (formerly of Vida). As a graduate of the Fred Eric School of Anything Goes, Dubois has cut back on his menu puns (although his Cobb salad is called Cobble Cobble), but his culinary eccentricity is still
intact in cutting-edge dishes like peppered ahi with a celery-root puree and candied kumquats, furikaki-crusted striped bass in soy cream sauce, and applewood-bacon-wrapped venison in mole sauce on a bed of spaetzle—a dish that manages to be American, Mexican, and German all at the same time. Adding to Boxer's charm is its wine list, which consists
of your going to their wine shop next door to pick out a worthy—and reasonably priced—vintage. (There's no corkage fee if your wine's from their shop. Bicentennial 13.) Boxer also happens to be the finest kosher restaurant around—an attractive attribute for residents of this largely Jewish neighborhood. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks; dinner Tues-Sun;
wine available next door; reservations recommended on weekends; north side of Beverly Blvd east of Fair fax Ave.

Cafe Del Rey / 2*

4451 ADMIRALTY WAY, MARINA DEL REY; 310/823-6395

This marina-front restaurant has long been one of the prime reasons to head this far southwest for lunch or dinner. Executive chef Katsuo "Naga" Nagasawa's flavorful and creative fusion-style cuisine, which incorporates French, Italian, and Pacific Rim elements, is far more adven-
turous than other nearby options. Seafood is always a safe bet, where dishes like kung pao sausage seafood sound stranger than they taste. The tuna sashimi salad is a study in contrasting textures, with tender raw tuna, crisp strips of wonton, shredded cucumber, baby greens, and a tart dressing of yuzu (a Japanese citrus fruit). The honey-cured Peking duck
is roasted three times, slowly and at different temperatures, and served with a raisin-and-plum-wine sauce, mango chutney, and coriander-laced pancakes. Desserts are particularly noteworthy. The glassed-in wine display room strongly hints that wine is an important part of Cafe Del Rey's appeal, but the monthly "winemaker dinners" and an impressive wine
list—over 300 bottles—prove it. The bar also offers an unusually large and changing list of wines by the glass. Sunday brunch is packed, but getting a table is worth the effort. $$$; AE, DIS, MC, V; no checks; lunch, dinner every day, brunch Sun; full bar; reservations recommended; between Mindanao and Via Marina.

Cafe Pinot / 2.5*

700 W STH ST, LOS ANGELES; 213/239-6500

Joachim Splichal's downtown outpost brings life to an otherwise dead after-dark neighborhood with this spin-off of Pinot Bistro in Sherman Oaks. Situated right next to the downtown Public Library, this shoebox atrium restaurant has an upward view of downtown's shining towers and a patio view of the library's garden. The food is Splichal lite, which is to
say that his eccentric, delicious Mitteleuropa/CsAitoima. cooking carries somewhat more earthly prices here. Expect a Splichalian menu that might include a savory warm leek and chanterelle tartlet (with caramelized onions—the man loves caramelized onions), a superbly sea soned warm herbed goat cheese on frisee and mache, warm spinach salad with duck confit, silky oyster soup, rich seared loin of venison with sweet- potato hash, and moist, sage-infused rotisserie chicken with braised salsify. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; at S Flower St.

Campanile / 4*

624 S LA BREA AVE, LOS ANGELES; 323/938-1447

With owners/chefs Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton in control since its 1989 opening, Campanile continues to be one ofL.A.'s finest restaurants. The Mediterranean-Romanesque 1920s building, once owned by Charlie Chaplin, is a delight in itself with its bell tower, high ceilings, casual bar, and a spacious divided dining room that make it an ideal venue for the
JW rustic California-Mediterranean cuisine served by an unpretentious but professional staff. Campanile is famous for its excellently prepared fresh food, which includes a revered porterhouse dusted with cracked pepper as well as such specials as roasted monkfish wrapped in tomato, basil, and pancetta and served with roasted-tomato sauce and lentils, or cedar- smoked Scottish salmon with a ragout of sprouted legumes and romesco.
But their creative pasta dishes, the addictive crisp flattened chicken with garlic-lemon confit and parsnip potatoes, and the absolutely knockout lineup of grilled cheese sandwiches (Thursday nights) are equally awe inspiring. With a wine list the size of Madonna's not-so-little black book, making a choice can be tough but rewarding; the list showcases selections
from California, Italy, Spain, and France and features small wine producers from around the world. This is one place where it would be criminal to leave without at least sampling a dessert. Mom's apple pie is not some polished, artsy presentation, but a rough-hewn, baseball-sized individual pie filled with sweet and tart apple, surrounded by a pool of rich
caramel sauce and a puddle of homemade applesauce, with Scotch caramel ice cream. Silverton's La Brea Bakery next door, known for single-handedly revolutionizing Los Angeles's bread scene, provides the bread for the restaurant. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat, brunch Sat-Sun; full bar; reservations rec-
ommended; between Wilshire Blvd and 6th St.

Chaya Brasserie / 2.5*
Chaya Venice / 2.5*

8741 ALDEN DR, WEST HOLLYWOOD; 310/859-8833
I 10 NAVY ST (AT MAIN ST), VENICE; 310/396-1 179

Wear black and expect to see celebrities at this California-French bistro/brasserie with Japanese touches, which was opened by a venerable restaurant family from Tokyo. Inside the warehouselike setting you'll find some of the most creative grill food around. Though the menu shifts with the seasons, chefs Shigefumi Tachibe and Masaru Morimoto have certain classic preparations that travel from menu to menu: seaweed salad with ginger-soy rice wine vinaigrette, Hawaiian tuna tartare, Cantonese chicken rolls, Chinese duck and mango salad, pan-fried shrimp with mashed potatoes, sesame-crusted whitefish, grilled Moroccan lamb
chops, and sliced roasted venison with black peppercorn sauce. The menu at their sister restaurant, Chaya Venice, has more Japanese influence (due largely to its sushi bar) and is a choice spot for Santa Monica's handsome crowd. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; at Robertson blvd.

ChezMimi / 2*

246 26TH ST, SANTA MONICA; 310/393-0558

Named for owner Micheline Hebert, whose nickname is Mimi, this is one of the sweetest, most romantic new places in town. The former chef/owner of Chez Helene, in both its Venice and Beverly Hills incarnations, Hebert moved to Santa Monica for her latest endeavor, a country French restaurant. Chez Mimi is spread over three cottages, each with its own fireplace, and lots of courtyard space for al fresco dining on temperate coastal nights—definitely the best, and most romantic, way to go here. Cuisine matches the decor: rustic French, with bouillabaisse and leg of lamb among the best main courses. And because Hebert hails from Montreal, she prepares a few Quebecois specialties as well, like tourtiere—a hearty, spicy meat pie—and chomeur, an upside-down cake with caramel and raspberry. Her tarte tatin was honored as the best in town by a local French-language magazine. Service, mostly by French- accented waiters, is excellent, and the wine list is strong in both French and California selections. Whether you sit inside or out, you'll feel like
you're dining in the countryside. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks;
lunch Tues-Sat, dinner Tues-Sun, brunch Sun; full bar; reservations
recommended; south of San Vicente Blvd. at Montana Ave.

Chinois on Main / 3*

2709 MAIN ST, SANTA MONICA; 310/392-9025

Although Wolfgang Puck's first foray into fusion occurred more that 15 years ago in this kitchen, the superstar chef's Chinois still rates as one of the best restaurants in town. Puck's wife, Barbara Lazaroff, did the dining room decor, as she has at most of his places, and this one's particularly fun and over the top, virtually exploding with color and huge floral displays. While the menu constantly evolves as new chefs rotate through the kitchen, some of the earliest creations are still the best: the whole sizzling catfish stuffed with ginger and topped with ponzu sauce and chicken salad of Napa cabbage, baby lettuce, chicken, and fried
wonton skins in a Chinese mustard vinaigrette, sauteed foie gras with marinated and grilled pineapple, and Shanghai lobster with spicy ginger sauce and crispy spinach among the entrees, and an assortment of mini creme brulees for dessert. Grab one of the seats at the kitchen counter in the back and watch the chefs work their magic, or stake out one of the
tables along the front windows. But whatever you do, don't expect quiet conversation; acoustics here are as loud as the decor. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; lunch Wed-Fri, dinner every day; full bar; reservations required; between Hill and Ashland Sts.

Cicada / **

617 S OLIVE ST, LOS ANGELES; 323/655-5559

Stephanie Taupin was doing fine with Cicada in its original West Hollywood location when the magnificent space that had been Rex in the landmark Oviatt Building became available. Taupin moved across town, setting up shop in what had long ago been an elegant haberdashery. By adding gold leaf to the ceiling—all 15,000 square feet of it—she gave a
warm glow to the beautiful space, both upstairs and down. The room is indeed the star, from the spectacular split staircase to the glass cabinets filled with prized wine and spirits. The food from executive chef Michael Shaheen's kitchen is Northern Italian, from ravioli filled with portobello mushrooms and spinach and ricotta gnocchi with diced chicken breast to
a grilled, on-the-bone filet mignon served on penne with a barolo reduction. Fulvio Beltrami oversees the substantial wine list, split almost evenly between California and Italy, and diners should seek his counsel with confidence on lesser-known Italian bottles as well as after-dinner grappas. $$$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat; full
bar; reservations recommended; between 6th and 7th Sts.

Citrus / 2.5*

6703 MELROSE AVE, LOS ANGELES; 323/857-0034

Despite founding chef Michel Richard's decamping for the East Coast to open more of his casual Citronelle restaurants, and chef Alain Giraud moving over to Lavande at the Loews Santa Monica Hotel, Citrus remains one of the preferred California-French restaurants in Los
Angeles. The large room is filled with tables topped with umbrellas, most of which have a view of the glass-fronted kitchen and a team of fanatically attuned cooks working their wonders. For lunch, the industry dish of choice is salad, or perhaps grilled fish. Come dinner, though, executive chef Daniel Rossi pulls out the stops with such contemporary renditions
as grilled foie gras, a shiitake mushroom tart with garlic cream, peppered seared ahi tuna with a spicy diable sauce, and beef tenderloin bourguignonne, along with a high level of desserts inspired by master pastry chef Richard, who did, after all, train under Gaston Lenotre. Try the
crunchy napoleon of slow-baked caramelized phyllo with slices of creme brulee and a butterscotch sauce and you'll dream about it for years to come. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; west of Highland Ave.

Crustacean / 2*

9646 LITTLE SANTA MONICA BLVD, BEVERLY HILLS; 310/205-8990

Crustacean, in true Hollywood fashion, comes with its own subtitle: "Euro-Asian Cuisine." The owners, three generations of women, are Vietnamese, but this is not traditional Vietnamese cooking or even standard Asian fusion. It is the personal cuisine of Helene An, who was reared in a Hanoi culture that was both Vietnamese and French. Her affluent family's three chefs—French, Vietnamese, and Chinese—taught her how to cook, and the results are yours for the tasting at this nostalgic, camera-ready rendition of '30s colonial Hanoi. The dramatic entrance brings you past a floor-to-ceiling aquarium into the bar, where another aquarium beneath the floor, 80 feet long and filled with brightly colored koi, is the glass topped pathway winding into the dining room. Seafood may well be the best way to go here, from lemongrass-scented Asian bouillabaisse and lobster in tamarind sauce to whole roasted Dungeness crab with garlic sauce. House specialties, such as An's giant tiger prawns and fantastically potent garlic noodles, are created in the "secret kitchen," a separate area where recipes are kept under wraps by allowing only family members access. $$$;
AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat; full bar; reservations recommended; between Rodeo Dr and Roxbury Dr.

Dan Tana's / 2*

9071 SANTA MONICA BLVD. WEST HOLLYWOOD; 3 10/275-9444

Dan Tana's remains one of L.A.'s most favored Italian restaurants still going strong halfway through its fourth decade. At a restaurant so steeped in tradition, it's not surprising that chef Matte Mustac has been in the kitchen for nearly 30 years. But with the exception of a classic
caesar salad, a superb steak, and some decent veal, food isn't the thing at Tana's as much as the New York speakeasy atmosphere, which attracts a celebrity-heavy clientele out for an old-fashioned meal and a good time Chianti bottles hang in groups of three from the high ceiling, and basketball )erseys from former Los Angeles Lakers Magic Johnson and
Vlade Divac, framed and autographed, hang on the walls. The bar is packed and noisy, and there's always a wait for a table. Service is professional—more than a few of the waiters have been here nearly since opening day—if a bit rushed. Don't leave without sharing a rich, creamy tiramisu. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; local checks only; dinner every day; full bar; reservations required; between Doheny Dr and Robertson Blvd.

Dar Maghreb / 2*

7651 SUNSET BLVD, WEST HOLLYWOOD; 323/876-7651

The name means "Moroccan house," and dining here is very much like being invited into the home of a wealthy Moroccan. Pass through the strikingly ornate and massive brass doors with intricate Islamic designs and the host, clad in a djellaba, the traditional robelike garment of the region, greets you as you enter. It's an opulent setting, complete with atrium and fountain; long, narrow dining rooms with high ceilings; and belly dancers undulating through the restaurant. Salmon, m'choui (lamb shoulder), and duck are often available as specials, but generally there's only one choice—a six-course prix-fixe dinner, which, unless you protest,
is to be eaten with your fingers (water bowls provided) Highlights include b'stilla-a pastry shell filled with a mix of chicken, almonds, and scrambled eggs, topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon—and lemon chicken with olives. $$$; DIS, MC, V; no checks; dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; between Fairfax and La Brea Aves.

Diaghilev / 2.5*

1020 N SAN VICENTE BLVD. WEST HOLLYWOOD; 310/854-I I I I

When a special occasion calls for a big night out, make a reservation at __ this elegant eatery in the Wyndham Bel Age, which is named after famed Russian dancer Serge de Diaghilev. Gracious Dimitri Dimitrov will greet you like a long-lost relative and whisk you through the ornate dining room to your table adorned with fine china and stemware. As piano and harp
music plays in the background, you and your companions might opt to get in the opulent mood with a taste of caviar and a shot of fine vodka while you decide what to select from the Franco-Russian menu. Start with a rendition of borscht, made either with red or yellow beets and served with flaky pirozhki, or a traditional Russian appetizer like the beef-and-rice-stuffed cabbage rolls, then move on to such main courses as chicken Kiev with black truffles and a rich port wine suace, or a sauteed fillet of sturgeon with caviar. While an evening at this exquisite establishment can be spendy, it offers a refined dining experience not often found in Los Angeles. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; no checks; dinner Tues-Sat; full bar; reservation required; just south of Sunset Blvd.

The Dining Room at the Regent Beverly Wilshire / 2.5*

9500 WILSHIRE BLVD. BEVERLY HILLS; 310/274-8179

Beverly Hills native J. P. Amateau spends his free time exploring ethnic restaurants and markets looking for new ideas for his California/ Provencal menu, which is served in a very formal setting. As a result of these forays, Amateau offers an unusually large selection of nightly specials in addition to his regular dishes. He has a wonderful way with meats and, unlike many hotel chefs, is not fussy in his presentations. The focus is on creating delicious food served simply on attractive china. Service is attentive and professional, never overly familiar. Standouts include pan roasted Sonoma foie gras atop a bed of arugula on a disc of toasted brioche and paired with sun-dried cherries and plump blackberries, and oven-roasted Colorado lamb chops in a rich bourbon sauce and accompanied by a mini saute pan of fennel-laced mashed potatoes. The Dining Room features an unusually nice, adventurous, and reasonably priced wine list; for deep-pocketed connoisseurs, there's an impressive "Reserve"
section. Every Friday and Saturday evening, there's dancing to live music from a first-rate trio. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; no checks; breakfast every day, lunch, dinner Mon-Sat; full bar; reservations recommended; www.fourseasons.com; between Rodeo Dr and El Camino Rd.

Flora Kitchen / 1*

460 S LA BREA AVE, LOS ANGELES; 323/931-9900

Rivaling the enticing aromas streaming from the kitchen of this bright little cafe are the floral scents wafting in from the adjoining Rita Flora flower shop. Patrons can actually chow down on healthful salads and sandwiches among the sweet-smelling flowers or eat in the main cafe,
which boasts a deli-style glass case chock-full of homemade salads— from penne with grilled vegetables to Tuscan beans with ahi. Wherever you stake out a table. Flora Kitchen serves up some downright yummy fare, like salads, homemade soups, panini sandwiches, plump crab cakes, and hearty lasagne. The artsy Mediterranean-style cafe is also a great breakfast spot, where you can bring a good book and linger over a monster-sized cappuccino and fresh-baked scones. When breakfast is done, the antique shops and boutiques of La Brea Avenue are the lure just up the street. $; MC, V; no checks; breakfast, lunch, dinner Mon-Sat; beer and wine; reservations not necessary; just north of Wilshire Blvd.

Four Oaks / 2.5*

2181 N BEVERLY GLEN BLVD, LOS ANGELES; 310/470-2265

Four Oaks is one of Los Angeles's most unabashedly romantic restaurants. Pass the parking lot, where twinkle lights spread into the trees in every direction, glance through the kitchen windows, where the staff labors over some of the best modern French-California cooking in
Southern California, walk through the door, and just like that, you're in Provence—especially if you opt for the sylvan pleasures of the outdoor patio. Dishes are of exceptional focus and clarity: flavors are never hidden away beneath excessive sauces and flummery. Such is the case with the perfect duck breast carpaccio with horseradish and Parmesan; the heavenly traditional house-smoked salmon with capers and creme fraiche; the delectable basil-crusted halibut; the pepper-roasted duck; and the garlic-grilled lamb chops. This is a restaurant to which you don't want to take your cousin Mort from East Aardvark; it's the place to go
with that special someone whom you want to dazzle with your wit and your taste. Sometimes, it even works. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks; lunch Tues-Sat, dinner every day, brunch Sun; full bar; reservations required; about 2 miles north of Sunset Blvd.

Gardens / 2.5*

300 S DOHENY DR, LOS ANGELES; 310/273-2222

While breakfast here is power dining at its most cell-phone-wieldingly stereotypical. Gardens is also a top choice for a low-key dinner, with chef Carrie Nahabedian in the kitchen, excellent service in the dining room, and one of the most tranquil casual-meets-formal atmospheres in town. Nahabedian, who previously worked with Charlie Trotter, has long since established her own style, emphasizing light seasonal dishes with strong, clean flavors. Her forest mushroom soup comes accompanied by a wild mushroom fritter. She pairs seared foie gras with Arkansas black apples, cranberry compote, and Calvados sauce on one seasonal appetizer, while combining sea scallops with a salad of spinach, basil, and artichoke in orange essence in another. She tosses Russian caviar into a tartare of salmon and ahi, and uses flavored caviars to enhance chilled oysters. Among the main courses, you can't go wrong with her hefty 16-ounce Kansas City sirloin, a fine cut of beef in an oxtail and red wine sauce, matched with a souffle of goat cheese and horseradish, and barbecued onions. Nahabedian also offers a five-course degustation menu, as well as spa-style alternative cuisine. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; no checks; breakfast, lunch, dinner every day, brunch Sun; full bar; reservations accepted; www.fourseasons.com; between Burton Way and 3rd St.

Ginza Sushi-Ko / 3*

VIA RODEO, 218 RODEO DR. BEVERLY HILLS; 310/247-8939

Anxious to prove that mundane matters like cost do not affect their perceptions, critics tend to bury the fact that a meal at this starkly minimalist, rather intimidating sushi-and-sashimi bar can easily cost more than $300 per person. It should also be noted that there's no way to avoid the high cost, for the restaurant doesn't feature a menu—you're simply served tiny
portions of seafood both perfect and rare until you say stop. (However, the chef asks customers whether they have any allergies or dislikes when planning the evening's menu, which does, in fact, begin at 300 bucks.) At that point, a check arrives covered with figures that look like phone numbers—the high cost of perfection. This is almost certainly the most
expensive sushi bar in America, a bit of cognitive dissonance when you consider that it sits in a small room on the second floor of a Beverly Hills mall. Those with large-enough expense accounts claim it's the best sushi served this side of Tokyo. Expect to eat fish you've never heard of, shipped in specifically for the restaurant. We suspect the fish travel first class. $$$; AE, MC, V; no checks; lunch, dinner Mon-Sat; sake and beer; reservations required; northeast corner of Wilshire Blvd and Rodeo Dr, upstairs from McCormick df Schmick's on the Via Rodeo shopping street.

Granita / 2*

23725 W MALIBU RD, MALIBU; 310/456-0488

After years of being forced to drive long distances to dine at a truly trendy restaurant, isolated denizens of Malibu now have their own high-profile Wolfgang Puck eatery: a restaurant that's been described as Spago-by- the-Sea, complete with a whimsical style of design that's reminiscent of both Captain Nemo's submarine and the Little Mermaid. As a reminder
that this particular Spago cossets some of the top beachfront estaters in America, there's a stone near the entrance thanking Johnny Carson for , his support—and, yes, Mr. Hey-Oh is a regular. In Puck style, the kitchen- is open and bustling, and the food leans towards the well-loved Spago formula of designer pizzas and pastas. There's a wood-burning pizza oven, signature dishes such as the foie gras sandwich with Asian pears, and more seafood dishes than are found at the branches in town. They do wonderful things here with Santa Barbara spot prawns and monkfish. But Granita's most bountiful offering is its look and its vibe—this ain't your Malibu beach shack by any stretch of the imagination. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks; dinner every day, brunch Sat-Sun; full bar; reservations recommended; in Malibu Colony Plaza shopping center on Malibu Rd west of Pacific Coast Highway.

The Grill on the Alley / 2.5*

9560 DAYTON WAY, BEVERLY HILLS; 310/276-0615

Anyone who has had it up to his or her Oliver Peoples sunglasses with trendy California dining heads to the Grill, a classic American restaurant with hearty, straightforward fare. Awash in woods, brass, and leather, this old-boys'-club spot is the choice of power-dining businessmen who feast on huge plates of well-prepared steaks and chops and suck down
martinis. (0. J. Simpson's dream team of lawyers dined here regularly during the "trial of the century.") Although the ambience is heavy on testosterone, the classic grill fare tempts both sexes with classic renditions of fresh oysters, plump crab cakes, a generous and classic caesar salad, and juicy porterhouse or New York steaks with such tasty side dishes as
creamed spinach, fried onions, steamed vegetables, and shoestring potatoes. Sunday night is prime rib night, and the restaurant hosts year-round clambakes. But any night is right to sample the delicious homemade rice pudding or the hot fudge brownie sundae. If the surroundings seem familiar, it might be because this restaurant served as the inspiration for
Southern California's Daily Grill chain. $$$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Sat, dinner every day; full bar; reservations required; off Wilshire Blvd. Av

The Hump / 3*

3221 DONALD DOUGLAS LOOP S, SANTA MONICA AIRPORT, SANTA MONICA; 310/313-0977

Despite its unappetizing name, the Hump, which sits atop the Typhoon Restaurant at the Santa Monica Airport, serves some of Los Angeles's best sushi in one of its most beautiful and unique dining rooms. With his love of history, owner Brian Vidor designed and named this restaurant to pay homage to the Himalayan wartime route the American pilots used
to fly supplies from India to troops in China. The result is a sushi bar of remarkable quality, with a tarmac-front view and a spectacular setting designed by Steven Francis Jones (Spago Beverly Hills, Chinois Las Vegas, Barfly). The place is an elegant setting in which to consume great sushi prepared by Hiro Nishimura. Expect tuna, both big-eye and yellowfin, along with expensive (and worth it) toro. Luxuriate in the unabashed oiliness of Japanese sardines (iwashi), the slippery crunch of jumbo clam, the tidepool essence of sea urchin, the addictiveness of the rock shrimp tempura, or quick-sauteed abalone, and the collection of hot
and cold sakes. Don't expect to find a Philadelphia roll or anything called "dynamite" on the menu. An eel roll with avocado is about as outlandish as things get here. Otherwise, this is sushi so pure, it's astonishing. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every day; beer and wine; reservations recommended; south side of Santa Monica Airport, just
offBundy.

II Cielo / 2*

9018 BURTON WAY, BEVERLY HILLS; 310/276-9990

Romance oozes through every room, patio, and garden at II Cielo ("the sky"). Pasquale Vericella, scion of an Italian restaurant family that has long run the Albergo La Braida in Sorrento, took a red-brick house on a tree-shaded street and created un ambiente d'amore in each of the four sweetly shaded areas: there's a front patio facing Burton Way; a rear patio
complete with arbors, bowers, and a fountain with water trickling from fff a lion's mouth; and two interior rooms each. Celebrities are especially fond of the place because they can slip in through the rear entrance just off the parking lot. (Frank Sinatra was a regular.) The food is Italian and pleasantly light; especially good are bruschetta al pomodoro e basilica, risotto con porcini, petto di polio alia Bolognese, branzino al forno (whole baked sea bass, filleted tableside), and heart-shaped lobster ravioli. Service is properly obsequious. $$; AE, MC, V; checks OK; lunch, dinner Mon-Sat; full bar; reservations recommended; south side of
Burton Way just east of Doheny.

Indochine / 2.5*

8225 BEVERLY BLVD. LOS ANGELES; 323/655-4777

Black-clad hipsters dine on elegant French-Vietnamese cuisine at this alluring West Coast branch of the celebrated New York dining establishment. Cozy into one of the restaurant's leather banquettes and order a selection of beautifully presented dishes that are perfect for sharing, such as fried spring rolls with shrimp and chicken wrapped in rice paper, steamed raviolis, spicy beef salad, striped bass steamed with ginger and asparagus, crispy salmon with lemongrass, and roast duck with Chinese broccoli. While most of the cuisine here is relatively healthy and comparatively low-calorie, desserts like the creamy coconut creme brulee go
a long way toward canceling out a health-conscious meal. Banana leaf murals, potted orchids, and bamboo accents give this sexy neighborhood favorite an exotic feel; however, the service and clientele can be pretentious. $$$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; between Fairfax Ave and La Cienega Blvd.

The Ivy / 2.5*
The Ivy at the Shore / 2.5*

I 13 N ROBERTSON BLVD. LOS ANGELES; 310/274-8303
1541 OCEAN AVE, SANTA MONICA; 310/393-3113

From big-shot Hollywood agents to A-list celebrities, this trendy restaurant is a long-time Hollywood hangout, where Julia Roberts has been known to drop by for the fantastic (though ridiculously priced) chopped salad and Tori Spelling is said to prefer the lime chicken. Aside from the fanfare and the constant parade of arriving Rolls-Royces and Mercedes sedans, the atmosphere is charming, especially along the front outdoor patio, where a white picket fence encloses comfy chintz seating and schmoozing power diners. The American fare is just as its clientele likes it: diverse and expensive, with such selections as sweet and spicy corn
chowder, signature crab cakes, homey meatloaf, blackened shrimp, or Southern-style crisp fried chicken. The sitcom star at the table next to you may skip dessert, but if your goal isn't to share dress sizes with Calista Flockhart or Courteney Cox, try the pecan square (a pecan pie-like base topped with ice cream and butterscotch or fudge sauce), the warm and
gooey fruit crumbles, or the homemade chocolate chip cookies. The restaurant's sister eatery. Ivy at the Shore, offers a similar country inn-like ambience, though chances are you'll have to settle for views of the Pacific instead of celebrity sightings. $$$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; lunch, dinner every day, brunch Sun (The Ivy); lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every day, brunch Sat-Sun (The Ivy at the Shore); full bar; reservations recommended; south of Beverly Blvd (The Ivy); Ocean Ave at Colorado Ave (The Ivy at the Shore).

JiRaffe / 2.5*

502 SANTA MONICA BLVD. SANTA MONICA; 310/917-6671

JiRaffe became an instant hit under the partnership between chefs Josiah Citrin (the Ji) and Raphael Lunetta (the Raffe), the young culinary team who were named among the 10 "Best New Chefs" by Food 6r Wine Magazine in 1997. The pair separated in early 1999, with Citrin heading off to open his own more formally French place. Now the light, airy two-
story dining room, decorated with 50 variations of the long-necked mammal (mostly gifts from satisfied customers) is overseen by Lunetta, who continues to serve excellent "rustic French/California" cuisine, explosively flavored yet not overly fussy. Signature dishes include a roasted rabbit appetizer; a crisp salad of roasted pears with mixed greens, hazelnuts, and fourme d'Ambert cheese; buttery salmon with parsnip puree, braised fennel, and balsamic nage; and zesty roasted chicken with Provencal stuffing, crushed Yukon gold potatoes, and a sauce of chanterelle mushrooms and fava beans. There's a nightly tasting menu, a vegetarian menu, and a Grand Chef's Menu, the last especially good on Wednesdays, after Lunetta has made his weekly trip to the local farmers' market. JiRaffe also offers a seasonal menu with or without paired wines. At this sophisticated yet unpretentious operation, you're perfectly safe
putting yourself in the chefs' and sommelier's hands. Both the wine list and the menu are about quality rather than trendiness and flash. $$$; AE, DIS, MC, V; no checks; lunch Tues-Fri, dinner Tues-Sun; beer and wine; reservations recommended; corner of 5th St.

Jitlada / 2.5*

5233'A SUNSET BLVD, HOLLYWOOD; 323/667-9809

For more than 20 years, Jitlada has been home to some of the best, most authentic, and spiciest Thai food to be found in the City of Angels. Though it's in a dicey section of Hollywood, it's the favorite of the local Thai community, who eschew many of the slicker places around town in favor of great food served in the two drab, incongruously furnished
^ rooms within a mini-mall. This is spicy stuff, to be sure; the brave or foolish can even request extra chiles, while the saner might want a Thai beer (Amarit or Singha) to cool the fire. Sure, they've got excellent versions of mee krob and Thai toast, but try the Thai-style pomfret meuniere, a whole fish, deep-fried and topped with garlic and chili sauce. $; AE,
DIS, MC, V; no checks; lunch, dinner Tues-Sun; beer and wine; reservations not necessary; between Western Ave and Normandie Ave.

Joe's / 3*

1023 ABBOTT KINNEY BLVD, VENICE; 310/399-581 I

Set in Hans Rockenwagner's former storefront eatery, this small, wildly popular restaurant combines the homestyle cooking of chef/owner Joe Miller with a stark modern ambience. Miller, who enjoys culinary explo- ration and utilizing the region's access to fresh seasonal ingredients, puts an innovative spin on virtually everything he does. An exotic example is
his coconut-crusted soft-shell crab with a zesty green curry sauce, or his hazelnut-crusted goat chesse with roasted baby beets. Even the classics get a new spin, such as tender roast beef, which comes with creamy mashed potatoes, crispy artichokes, and balsamic vinegar; and homey port tenderloin, which also gets a dollop of mashed potatoes jazzed up with wild mushrooms and roasted garlic jus. Anyone up for an all-out culinary adventure should embark on one of the two four-course prix fixe menus, which are offered nightly for $30 or $40 a person. Desserts like pistachio parfait with apricots, strawberries, and basil; or caramel ized pineapple with mango sorbet go well with Joe's small but nice selection of port wines. Chocoholics shouldn't miss the warm chocolate souffle cake that oozes with rich fudge. $$; AE, MC, V; lunch and dinner Tues-Sun, Sat-Sun brunch; beer and wine; reservations recommended; between Main St and Westminster Ave.

Jozu / 3*

8360 MELROSE AVE, LOS ANGELES; 323/655-5600

When executive chef Suzanne Tracht, formerly of Campanile, brought her unique California Pacific cuisine to quietly sumptuous Jozu, it was an instant success. The mostly seafood menu is served in a sleek, spacious, and dimly lit dining room. Eclectic and inventive options might
include such blessings as tempura squash blossoms with shrimp andwood-ear mushrooms in a spicy ponzu sauce or tender roasted Chilean sea bass with a fresh cabbage salad. To appeal to all taste buds, Tracht offer a few hearty meat dishes and great vegetarian entrees—such aswell as large nightly list of specials . Sake is a specialty of the house , with more than a dozen premium varietuies at the bar, and owner Andy Nakano, a sake aficionado, wanders from table to table1 pouring samples and describing his various offerings and how they pair with specific dishes. An added bonus is the tranquil atmosphere. this is one restaurant where you won’t have to strain to hear the dinner con­versation. U; AR, DC, DIS, Mc, ½ no checks; lunch Thurs-Fri dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended. www.iozu.com; between La Cienega Blvd and Kings Rd.

Kate Mantlilni/ 2*

9101 WILSHIRE BLVD1 BEVERLY HILLS; 310/278.369

Classic American cuisine is the focus at this eatery, where comfort foods like meat loaf, chicken pot pies, crab cakes, and garlic rotisserie chicken reign supreme in a rather sterile dining room marked with high ceilings, wooden booths, an Open kitchen, and enormous black-andwl,jte glamour photos. In addition to seafood, steaks, sandwiches and salads, there~ a large selection of healthy alternatives, from skinless chicken breasts to turkey burgers. Winning side orders, including broccoli with hollandaise sauce, fresh sautéed spinach with garlic and Parmesan cheese, and huge baked potatoes with all the fixings, are meals in them. selves. Such daring choices as frogs’ legs and calves’ brains-_which famed director Billy Wilder reportedly enjoys here on the average of twice a week -also giace the lengthy and diverse menu. For those in search of late-night dining after last call, the restaurant stays open until 2am on weekends U; AL, DC, Mc, V no checks; breakfast, lunch, dinner every day, brunch Sun; full bar; reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more; at Doheny Dr.

Katsu / 2.5*

972 HILIHURSI AYE, LOS FELIZ1 323/6641891

For a long time, this beautiful bento box of a restaurant, so spare in design that one entire room is dedicated to nothing but art on the walls, was perceived as the best sushi bar in Los Angeles. And to many, it still is, though the remarkable work at Matsuhisa and Sushi Nozawa (along with the awesomely expensive meals prepared at Ginza Sushi-Ko) now tend to eclipse the still-fine fish prepared nightly at this understated Los Felix destination After more than a decade, Katsu’s rigidly austere black- and-white decor is still ahead of its time, and the sushi served here is utterly beyond reProach__perfect slices of richly flavored yellowtail (harnachi), silky sea bass (shironu), blood-dark tuna (both ‘naguro and the highly-prized, fat-marbled toro), exquisitely oily mackerel (saba), jumbo clam (mirugai), and sea the Mother Sea itself. U; AR,) every day; wine and beer; rese hurst Aye, south of Los Feliz Blvd

La Boheme / 2*

8400 SANTA MONICA BLVD, WEST HOLLYWOOD; 323/848-2360

An unlikely mix of Left Bank Paris and a Tuscan country villa, Boheme is the work of Kozo Hasegawa, one of Japan's flashiest restaurateurs. To make the otherwise cavernous room a bit more intimate, torches glow inside the enormous fireplace and tapestries and fabrics drape the walls. Tables, set well apart, fill the middle of the floor, and a row of curtained,
wood-paneled leather booths lines the wall across from the fireplace. iy Upstairs, a narrow, catwalklike construction holds more tables, and a dumbwaiter at one end carries up drinks from the ground-floor bar. The menu sometimes leans toward bizarre combinations of ingredients, but if you stick to simple dishes, such as a zesty classic caesar salad, fresh oys-
ters, crisp fried calamari, delicately seared tuna tataki, or filet mignon, both your palate and your dinner partner will be in the mood for love.
$$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; laboheme@netwood.net; www.calendarlive.com/ cafelaboheme/; between La Cienega Blvd and Sweetzer Ave.

La Cachette / 3*

10506 LITTLE SANTA MONICA BLVD. CENTURY CITY; 310/470-4992

Chef-owner Jean Francois Meteignier was already a local star by the time he opened La Cachette ("the hideaway"). During his 10-year stint at L'Orangerie he was recognized for four years running by the Zagat Survey for Best French Cuisine, and he was the opening chef at the original Cicada when the place was really jumping. But it's at formal and romantically lit La Cachette, which opened in late 1994, that Meteignier showcases his highly lauded lighter style of French cooking. The fare, which favors stocks and reductions over cream and butter, is served in __ two soft-white dining rooms whose simple splashes of color come from
y^ blue and beige banquettes and impressionist reproductions. While the decor is somewhat subdued, there's plenty of color to the food, which might include a salad of savory smoked whitefish over potatoes with capers, lemon, and olive oil; tangy double roast duck with honey orange zest; tender farm-raised New Zealand venison; grilled swordfish steak flavored with soy/wasabi/mustard sauce; and not-to-be-missed desserts such as dreamy chocolate souffle with brandied cherries and a delightfully light apple tart with caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every day; full bar;
reservations recommended; between Beverly Glen Blvd and Overland Ave.

La Serenata de Garibaldi / 1.5*

1842 E 1ST ST, BOYLE HEIGHTS (AND BRANCHES); 323/265-2887

A highly regarded family-run restaurant, La Serenata de Garibaldi serves some of the finest—and most authentic—regional Mexican cuisine in Los Angeles. The original Boyle Heights branch, which opened in 1983, closed for a while and then reopened in mid-1999. Like its sister restaurants, it uses family recipes, with menu highlights including two hand-
made moles—poblano (sweet and complex) and Oaxaca (black and spicy)—which are great with everything from enchiladas to chicken and fish or pork. Beef medallions arrive in molcajete sauce, which has plenty of spice from its mix of peppers, fresh-roasted tomatoes, onions, and chunks of avocado. For dessert, you can't go wrong with the simple, fresh
strawberries or guavas in cream, or the house special tres leches cake, an unusually moist treat made with regular, condensed, and evaporated milks. The Rodriguez family recently opened a stylish new branch with hacienda-style decor in Santa Monica. That makes number three, after the casual store in the Westside Pavilion. $$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks;
lunch, dinner every day, brunch Sat-Sun; full bar; reservations recommended; between Mission St and Soto St.

Lavande / 2.5*

1700 OCEAN AVE, SANTA MONICA; 310/458-6700

Lavender is everywhere at Lavande, the relatively new French Provencal restaurant perched over the beach at Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel. The aromatic, colorful herb is added to many of the main-course dishes, blended into ice cream and other desserts, and tucked into a little sachet that's presented with the check. The theme is well executed by Paris-born,
Provence-raised chef Alain Giraud, who spent a decade at Citrus with star chef Michel Richard before opening this immediately revered spot. Giraud's cuisine is richly flavored, the result of fresh, first-rate ingredients and judicious use of herbs. House specialties include a thoroughly authentic fish soup with garlic croutons and rouille; a buttery tartelette
provencale of Maine scallops; decadent sauteed foie gras with figs; and tender roasted Chilean sea bass with baby artichokes barigoule. "Alain's Tasting Menu," a five- or six-course meal, is based on the freshest available ingredients of the day. The wine list of nearly 200 selections is par ticularly strong in French bottles. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; no
checks; breakfast every day; lunch, dinner Mon-Sat, brunch Sun; full bar; reservations recommended; www.calandarlive.com/lavande; between Pico and Santa Monica Blvds.

Lawry's The Prime Rib / 2.5*

100 N LA CIENEGA BLVD. BEVERLY HILLS; 310/652-2827

Lawry's is cooking from the very heart of America: a well-loved restaurant launched in 1938 and predicated on the simple pleasures of beef and cheerful service. It's also a restaurant straight out of Central Casting, with a serving staff that's corn-fed and raised on big glasses of milk—every body's real friendly and nice. With only three items on the menu, there's
no room for guessing what you'll have tonight: it's either prime rib (four selections), lobster, or the fresh fish special—all of which come with a pin wheel salad moistened with Lawry's dressing poured right out of the jar.
Creamed spinach, creamed corn, and spuds both baked and mashed, slathered with creamery butter, arrive on the side. (Don't even think about cholesterol when dining at Lawry's.) The prices are right and the beef is good, though you've got to like prime rib. Your Aunt Matilda will love this place. Lawry's is family values incarnate, with lots of old-fash-
ioned virtue in every swallow. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks; dinner every day; full bar; reservations required; east side of La Cienega Bird, north ofWilshireBlvd.

Le Colonial / 2.5*

8783 BEVERLY BLVD. WEST HOLLYWOOD; 310/289-0660

Clearly designed to evoke a prewar Saigon supper club, this elegant French-Vietnamese restaurant is downright sexy, with its ceiling fans, shuttered windows, and rattan and dark wood furnishings. The down stairs formal dining room and the front patio attract an eclectic assortment of patrons, from the suit-and-tie crowd to dressed-in-black hipsters,
who come to graze on crisp spring rolls, shrimp-sugar cane sticks, and 9Sf chicken-and-papaya salad with crunchy shrimp chips. Main courses such as whole sea bass wrapped in banana leaves—one of the best we've ever had—or filet mignon satay with spicy yams and long beans could easily become addictive. Upstairs, the restaurant's theme continues in the dimly lit lounge, which seduces the thin in-crowd with its comfy sofas, spacious seating areas, romantic nooks, and smokers-delight patio—prime turf for sipping Cosmopolitans and gossiping about industry happenings. $$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; at Robertson Blvd.

Le Dome /2.5*

8720 SUNSET BLVD, WEST HOLLYWOOD; 310/659-6919

Power lunch is such a way of life at this restaurant that magazines have actually published guides to which producers and which agents sit where on a regular basis. Le Dome functions as a French bistro, with a menu that's heavy with salads for the perennially diet-conscious regulars along with some very substantial bistro dishes for those who couldn't care less if they fit into a designer dress come Oscar night. Despite the celeb-heavy crowd, the cooking is pleasantly egalitarian—cassoulet, tender leg of lamb, a healthy grilled chicken, fine french fries, hearty calf's liver, warm duck salad, a memorable tarte tatin. There's a view as well, of the city spread out before diners like a string of pearls against the neck of night.
Or something like that. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat; full bar; reservations required; south side of Sunset Blvd west of La Cienega Blvd.

Les Deux Cafe / 2*

1638 N LAS PALMAS AVE, HOLLYWOOD; 323/465-0509

Wander through Grant's parking lot in this seedy section of Hollywood and you'll find the unmarked front entrance to this ultra-hip French bistro, where proprietess Michele Lamy served up adequate French fare to Hollywood A-listers like Cameron Diaz, Cindy Crawford, and slews of others who rarely jaunt east of La Cienega. Guests dine on the charming garden patio, which embodies casual glamour and romance, or indoors in the woodsy bungalow-style dining room. While most of the clientele are here for the scene, the cuisine shouldn't be overlooked. Don't miss such starters as the lobster and tabbouleh salad with just a hint of
mint, tender baked potatoes with osetra caviar, or the alluring fois gras terrine with fig compote. Entrees such as rich monkfish medallions with a lightly tarragon-scented vegetable salad, succulent rack of lamb with rosemary jus and eggplant caviar, and the obscenely decadent chicken breast with fois gras sauce make it easy to forget who's eating at the table
next to you. For dessert, opt for the baked-to-order chocolate souffle with pistachio ice cream, then stroll back to the bar/lounge where smoking is permitted and celebrities are known to join in with the evening's live entertainment. $$$; AE, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat; full bar; reservations recommended; at Sunset Blvd.

The Little Door / 2*

8164 W 3RD ST, LOS ANGELES; 323/951-1210

An L.A. hot spot that's so "in" it can't bother with a sign, this exclusive French-Mediterranean restaurant is nearly as dazzling as its twenty something and wannabe twenty-something patrons. Ensconced behind heavy wooden doors—which are anything but little—the main dining _— area is actually a canopy-covered courtyard, lit mostly by candlelight. (A plus for smokers, who flout the no-smoking law in spades here.) From the sounds of the gurgling fountain to the heavenly aromas coming from the kitchen, the romantic ambience of this hip eatery makes you long to be in love just so you can bring a special someone here. Though the food is certainly secondary to the vibe, the Little Door specializes in decent organic fare, with such starters as a delicate tuna tartare and flavorful pistou soup paving the way for main courses like marinated swordfish, sauteed scallops, and fork-tender lamb. Wine buffs are wowed by the extensive selection of wines by the glass, but only Euro-transplants will
appreciate the often-aloof service. $$$; AE, MC, V; no checks; dinner every day; beer and wine; reservations required; east of La Cienega Blvd. Av

Locanda Veneta / 2.5*

8638 W 3RD ST, LOS ANGELES; 3 10/274-1 893

Inside Locanda Veneta it's hard not to be struck by an overwhelming sense that you're in Venice. Not just because of the name, and not just because of the food, but because of the ineffable sense that you're in a place distanced from time and location. On a warm summer's evening you can feel the breeze flowing in through the windows, smell the green olive oil being poured over the carpaccio, hear the sizzle of roast lamb W (served in a mustard and walnut sauce). Close your eyes (or, alternatively,drink enough pinot grigio) and you'll imagine hearing the songs of the gondoliers and the slap of the waves in the great lagoon. The menu is both simple and select, yet it's the sort of menu that bulges with dishes you must try. By all means, order the trittico di mozzarelle, which is nothing more than a wonderful trio of freshly made mozzarellas with tomatoes that actually taste like tomatoes, basil, and extra virgin olive
oil. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat; beer and wine; reservations required; west of San Vicente Blvd.

L'Orangerie / 3*

903 N LA CIENEGA BLVD, WEST HOLLYWOOD; 310/652-9770

Housed in multimillion-dollar digs on La Cienega and lapped in the formality of truly upscale fine dining rooms, L'Orangerie is the most opulent classic French restaurant in Los Angeles—and the most expensive. Though the decor is relaxingly French-country-garden romantic, with a center atrium courtyard, sumptuous floral displays, and trellises, the place still requires your best duds and your special-occasion manners.
Chef Ludovic Lefebvre's cuisine, described in the past as the finest French cuisine in America, is served by an appropriately professional staff, who might suggest that you begin your long and serious dining affair with fluffy scrambled eggs in a shell and topped with caviar, and proceed with whole rock lobster fides (vermicelli) seasoned with shellfish-and-cinnamon butter, or prime beef tenderloin masterfully roasted with six peppers, preserved shallot confit, baby carrots, and served with a light potato souffle. The nightly prix-fixe menu is a six-course feast, and the wine list features 500 selections from France and the United States. $$$; AE, MC, V; no checks; dinner Tues-Sun; full bar; reservations required; west side of La Cienega Blvd, south of Santa Monica Blvd.

Lucques /3*

8474 MELROSE AVE, WEST HOLLYWOOD; 323/655-6277

Take Caroline Styne, former manager of trendy Jones Hollywood, and Suzanne Goin, the executive chef from Campanile, mix them in a romantically minimalist space that used to be the carriage house for the Harold Lloyd estate, place them next door to celeb-heavy Ago, and the result is Lucques, the hot spot of the moment. In 1999 Goin was named one of
the 10 Best New Chefs by Food cy Wine Magazine, but her restaurant was packed long before she got major media recognition. The reason?
The restaurant intentionally eschews Hollywood flash to focus on serving truly excellent food. Every meal at Lucques (say "Luke" with a French accent) begins with the dark, intense Provencal olives that give the place its name and almonds, which arrive soon after you sit down. The menu features the sort of casually satisfying French-Mediterranean food that matches the SoCal lifestyle to perfection—a heavenly soup of confit of tomatoes with creme fraiche, a flavorful salad of figs and prosciutto, light and delicate grilled bluefish with pancetta, an intense osso buco with haricots verts, and rabbit with escarole. Roasted beets, carrots,
and potatoes are served on the side. There's even a cheese course, making this one of the few restaurants to risk such an offering in a town where cheese is usually found atop a hamburger. The scene crackles, from the large booths and tables indoors to the sleek patio seating, with diners who have had to make reservations close to a month in advance to enjoy
the excellent fare and atmosphere of this West Hollywood gem. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks; dinner Tues-Sun; full bar; reservations required; south side of Me/rose Ave east of La Cienega Blvd.

Matsuhisa / 3.5*

129 N LA CIENEGA BLVD. BEVERLY HILLS; 310/659-9639

Eating at Matsuhisa is an experience akin to having never eaten before— that is to say, never really having eaten before. Yes, we've all put chow in our gullets. But nothing like what chef Nobu Matsuhisa—who receives equal raves for his New York restaurant Nobu—creates here, which is a world of Japanese seafood dishes that's sure to make your taste buds
seem as though they've been born again. The encyclopedic menu, complete with annotations, covers virtually every type of fish available through local Japanese markets, along with a fair number shipped in from Asia. Though the selection is overwhelming (reading the whole
menu would take hours, time better spent indulging in the remarkable food), what catapults each and every morsel into the realm of other worldly gastronomy are Matsuhisa's delicate and perfectly balanced sauces. Whatever accompaniment your fish comes swimming in or
braised with, it's invariably a perfect marriage, allowing the subtle flavors of the sea to harmonize with creative combinations from the earth. Try the shrimp in zingy pepper sauce, black cod in a miso sauce that rede fines that trendy glaze, squid pasta, and the dish that may well exemplify Nobu's style—sea urchin wrapped in a shiso leaf and cooked tempura-
style. We've seen tears trickle down the faces of committed foodies as they've nibbled, ever so delicately, on this remarkable creation. For its many fans, this understated, cramped—and surprisingly straightforward—space is home to the best restaurant in town. $$$; AE, MC, V;
no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every day; beer and wine; reservations required; west side of La Cienega Blvd north of Wilshire Blvd.

Michael's / 2.5*

1147 3RD ST. SANTA MONICA; 310/451-0843

Since the late '70s, Michael McCarty has done as much to define Cal French cooking in Southern California as Alice Waters has at Chez Panisse in Northern California. Because this is Los Angeles, though, his methods are far more stylish and properly dressed. The food, though no longer as cutting-edge, is still a fine sampling of the cuisine that moved Los Angeles beyond surf 'n' turf, and nowadays it's executive chef Sang Yoon who's whipping it up. Despite the French overlay, Michael's is actually a very American restaurant—a sublime place to go for hearty crab cakes, whole lobster drizzled with basil butter, grilled pork tenderloin in star anise-pinot noir sauce, or grilled filet mignon wrapped in apple wood-smoked bacon. When the seasonal meaty, but light, Baqueta bass in a Provencal puree of herbs with shaved fennel and mushroom-and- potato ragu is on the menu, it's one of the restaurant's best sellers. The setting remains wonderful and is home to one of the finest art galleries in town. There are few SoCal experiences more SoCal than a meal in the garden patio behind the restaurant, where the sound of falling water easily drowns out the parking lot beyond. Michael's also has a branch in New York City. $$$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; lunch Tues-Fri, dinner Tues-Sat; full bar; reservations required; east side of 3rd St just north
of Wilshire Blvd.

Mimosa / 2.5*
Cafe des Artistes / 2.5*

8009 BEVERLY BLVD. LOS ANGELES; 323/655-8895
1534 N MCCADDEN PL, HOLLYWOOD; 323/469.7300

While most restaurants claiming to be bistros are really bistro poseurs that serve lighter fare, Mimosa is the real thing—more or less. Here tables are cramped into a bright and cheery space where guests tend to focus on whom they're dining with instead of scanning to see who's sitting nearby. Sidewalk seating is especially appealing to true French expats who still
can't get over California's anti-smoking laws. As the statement of purpose on the menu says: "No Truffles, No Cavia