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Redondo Beach

RESTAURANTS

Chez Melange / 2*

1716 PACIFIC COAST HWY, REDONDO BEACH; 3 10/540-1222

Located inside the modest Palos Verdes Inn, this well-regarded brasserie has been presenting artful California cuisine so long it's become a Redondo Beach institution. The menu may no longer be cutting-edge, but it does seem to get more and more eclectic, moving seamlessly from Japanese to Cajun, Italian to Chinese, and keeping up to date with premium vodkas and a mouth-watering oyster-and-seafood bar. The decor has a dated, late 1980s feel, but the conservative, moneyed crowd here doesn't seem to mind a bit. During the day, a wide wall of picture win- dows makes the restaurant light and airy; at night, it feels decidedly more formal. Each meal begins with a basket of irresistible breads before you move on to a dizzyingly international entree such as shrimp and chicken in orange vindaloo curry over basmati rice with sweet, chunky chutney; rosemary-laced pork tenderloin and shallot-sherry cream sauce; Parmesan-crusted albacore with Greek feta salad and tabbouleh; or spicy
blackened halibut sauced with horseradish and served with seafood gumbo. Spa cuisine selections are available at every meal. $$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; breakfast, lunch, dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; www.chezmelange.com; between Palos Verdes Blvd and Prospect Ave.

Kincaid's Bay House / 2.5*

500 FISHERMAN'S WHARF, REDONDO BEACH; 310/318-6080

Opened in 1999, this branch of the venerable San Francisco/Hawaii surf 'n' turf specialists is the classiest joint on the reborn Redondo Beach pier. Sporting a Craftsman-inspired chunky architecture and sleek, clubby decor, the restaurant boasts panoramic ocean views, a relaxed bar with outdoor seating, and an open kitchen starring a huge hardwood spit roaster redolent with the aroma of sweet, smoky Nebraska-bred beef. A grand entryway of marble flooring gives way to rich burgundy carpeting and the warm glow of Deco-inspired wall sconces. Composed by Kincaid's Hawaiian executive chef James Nalu Miller, the menu offers island-
influenced dishes like char-sui pork skewers that are grilled over applewood to caramelize the sweet-tart honey/soy/hoisin marinade. Fresh fish from the Pacific Northwest and Hawaii are featured each day; other seafood specialties include wood-smoked prawns flavored with
chipotle-ancho rub and Kincaid's signature barbecue hollandaise, plus crab-and-shrimp hash served with sherry-cream sauce. Meat lovers cancatch a whiff of the spit-roasted prime rib on the way in ... if that doesn't entice you, consider seasoned and buttered sirloin, or pan-seared venison flavored with blackberry and sage. For dessert there's Key lime pie—the
pale yellow color lets you know it's authentic—or pear bread pudding baked in individual ramekins and served with bourbon-custard sauce. $$-$$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; checks OK; lunch Mon-Sat, dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; www.kincaids.com; at the south end of Harbor Dr.