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TRAVEL GUIDE

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NIGHTLIFE

BARS: A lot of negative things that can be said about the City of Angels, but no one has ever complained about a shortage of fabulous watering holes. If you plan to make a night of it with a rambling pub crawl, a car is a must, and so is a designated driver because the DUI laws are strict in these parts and the LAPD deals harshly with offenders. Also bear in mind that where there are cocktails, there's the singles scene—often young enough to make you wonder whether this town really is composed of nothing but twenty-somethings.

In the Silver Lake-Los Feliz area, the warm and pleasantly shabby atmosphere at AKBAR (4356 Sunset Boulevard, near Fountain Avenue; 323/665-6810) is a good place to go on cold nights. It's mostly populated by the area's arty crowd of all sexual persuasions, and if you appreciate Britpop and electronica, the jukebox is awesome. As the name suggests,
tiki style still dominates at TIKI-TI (4427 Sunset Boulevard, near Fountain Avenue, Los Feliz; 323/669-9381). The tropical drinks are served in coconut shells, and wearing an aloha shirt isn't unforgivable. THE DERBY (4500 Los Feliz Boulevard, near Hillhurst Avenue, Los Feliz; 323/663- 8979) caters to swinging Gen-Xers mixed with some of the town's hottest
veteran dancers. It's swanky, with private booths; there's usually live swing music on Wednesdays and Fridays, and swing dance lessons are available. What can be said about THE DRESDEN ROOM (1760 N Vermont Avenue, north of Hollywood Boulevard, Los Feliz; 323/665-4294), where Marty and Elayne Roberts still perform their '60s lounge act? The mixed crowd at the bar is usually five deep, and that speaks for itself. The GOOD LUCK BAR (1514 Hillhurst Avenue, north of Hollywood Boulevard, Los Feliz; 323/666-3524) is a favorite of the trendy and famous and their relatives. The THREE CLUBS (1123 N Vine Street, north of Santa Monica Boulevard, Hollywood; 323/462-6441) is smart and super trendy. It has a dress code and a doorman to assure that everyone honors the requisite hipness. THE ROOM (1626 N Cahuenga Boulevard, north of Sunset Boulevard, Hollywood; 323/462-7196) is tough to find but worth the trouble once you've negotiated the ratty alley where it's hiding. The interior is sexy, the jukebox is solid, and the DJ spins an eclectic variety of music. The LAVA LOUNGE (1533 N La Brea Avenue, north of Sunset
Boulevard, Los Angeles; 323/876-6612) is a groovy favorite tucked into an aging strip mall. Inside, hipsters rock to blues and surf. On the cusp of Hollywood, the funky FORMOSA CAFE (7156 Santa Monica Boulevard at Formosa Avenue; 323/850-9050) remains as popular now as it was 50 years ago with the Hollywood and celebrity set, young and old
MOLLY MALONE-S (575 S Fairfax Avenue, north of Wilshire Boulevard,
Los Angeles; 323/935-1577) is cozy and intimate during the week. Weekends it jumps because there's a dance floor and live bands.

Bars with a view are generally more refined than the town's favored Hollywood haunts. The fearfully fashionable 360° (6290 Sunset Boulevard at Vine Street, Hollywood; 323/871-2995) restaurant/lounge falls into that category. The stunning Japanese design of YAMASHIRO (1999 N Sycamore; 323/466-5125), at the crest of the Hollywood Hills, pales only in comparison to its city views. The SKYBAR (8440 W Sunset Boulevard, West Hollywood; 323/848-6025) at the oh-so-trendy Mondrian Hotel is very good for star-gazing—both the astral kind and celebs—if you can get past the doorman (or slip into the bar through the hotel before 8pm). The newly-hip-and-already-on-its-way-down FENIX (8538
Sunset Boulevard near La Cienega Boulevard, West Hollywood; 323/848- 6677) at the Argyle offers the same city views with less haute hoopla. The perennially cool WHISKEY BAR (1200 N Alta Loma Road at Sunset Boulevard, West Hollywood; 310/657-0611) in the Sunset Marquis Hotel & Villas has no view, but is known as the Strip's less-self-conscious be-seen cocktail lounge. BAR MARMONT'S (8171W Sunset Boulevard, west
of Crescent Heights Boulevard, West Hollywood; 323/650-0575) retro glamorous decor almost justifies the hefty cost of a cocktail.

Cross into the boundaries of Beverly Hills and the cocktail scene becomes instantly more refined. Such is the case at hotel lounges such as THE FOUR SEASONS (300 S Doheny Drive at Burton Way; 310/273- 2222) and the REGENT BEVERLY WILSHIRE (9500 Wilshire Boulevard at Rodeo Drive; 310/275-5200). NIC'S AND THE MARTINI LOUNGE (453 N Canon Drive, north of Brighton Way; 310/550-5707) is a popular spot
for martinis infused with spiced fruits.

On the Westside in Santa Monica, REBECCA'S (101 Broadway Avenue, at the corner of Ocean Boulevard; 310/306-6266), with its marine- flavored, ultramodern decor, is a favorite with the art gallery set; and CHEZ JAY (1657 Ocean Avenue; 310/395-1741), with its dark interior and the vintage tunes blaring from the box, attracts a large crowd of Santa Monica
regulars. In Marina del Rey, the singles mecca of Los Angeles, BAJA CANTINA (311 E Washington Boulevard; 310/821-2252) is certainly doing its part to keep the singles scene alive. The place is usually packed with sun tanned hard bodies talking fast and munching tortilla chips.

Downtown, check out the GRAND AVENUE SPORTS BAR in the Biltmore Hotel (506 S Grand Avenue; 213/612-1532) or ENGINE COMPANY NO. 28, in a converted 1912 firehouse (644 S Figueroa; 213/624-6996). CLUBS: Los Angeles is at its best after dark, with many exciting dance and/or music clubs to choose from. In addition to the entries pro-
vided here, check out L.A.'s free publications LA Weekly and New Times (available at cafes, bars, and markets), or the Calendar section of the Los Angeles Times, for the complete word on what's happening in L.A.'s frenetic and fluid club scene. The heaviest concentration of clubs is in Hollywood and adjacent areas, so it's easy to hit more than one in an evening.

The CRUSH BAR (1734 N Cahuenga Boulevard, north of Hollywood Boulevard, Hollywood; 323/463-SOUL) features '60s Motown and '70s and '80s chart-toppers. THE PALACE (1735 N Vine Street, above Hollywood Boulevard, Hollywood; 323/462-3000), in an old movie theater, has been pulling in hipsters of all ages for years with DJs spinning techno, house, and hip-hop and frequent concerts as well. CIRCUS (323/462- 1291), which is usually called the Big Top, and ARENA (323-462-0714) share the same address (6655 Santa Monica Boulevard, two blocks east of Highland Avenue, Hollywood), have multiple dance floors, and offer a broad variety of salsa, techno, disco, and hip-hop. Both cater to
both the straight and the gay crowds. The CATALINA BAR & GRILL (1640 N Cahuenga Boulevard, Hollywood; 323/466-2210) is a classy joint in the old sense of the phrase and one of the best places in the city for straight-ahead jazz. Many of the greats—Shirley Home, Miles, and Ella, to name only a few—have put in an appearance or two at this one. Jen-
nifer Lopez, Jimmy Smits, and other celebrity owners celebrate Latin music and dance at the CONGA ROOM (5364 Wilshire Boulevard, Los Angeles; 323/938-1696). The HOUSE OF BLUES (8430 Sunset Boulevard, West Hollywood; 323/848-5100), with its hydraulic stage, kitschy Louisiana ambience, and nightly first-rate jazz, rock, hip-hop, and blues
acts, is hard to beat. The ROXY (9009 W Sunset Boulevard, West Hollywood; 310/276-2222) and the WHISKEY A-GO-GO (8901 Sunset Boulevard, West Hollywood; 310/652-4202) are cornerstones along the Sunset Strip. Both preview up-and-comers and new music by the seasoned. The AZZ BAKERY (3233 Helms Avenue, behind Venice Boulevard, Los Angeles; 310/271-9039) is located around back of the old Helms Bakery,
now the Antique Guild. The sound system is excellent and it's another great spot for straight-ahead jazz from big names and new talent. MCCABE'S (3101 Pico Boulevard, Santa Monica; 310/828-4403 or 310/828-4497) has a 150-seat theater where everyone who's anyone has played, and many of them pop back in to make surprise appearances and
deliver acoustic performances. The most interesting and intense entrant in the Los Angeles jazz scene is the WORLD STAGE (4344 Degnan Boulevard, in the Crenshaw area; 323/293-2451). Thursday nights there are improv jams, and you might see a Marsalis brother playing next to today's nobody. It's not the best neighborhood, but there's safety in numbers, so go with a group. If Charlie Parker were still alive this is where he would hang. The MAYAN (1038 S Hill Street, between Olympic and llth Streets; 213/746-4287), in the old Mayan vaudeville palace downtown, offers dance music as eclectic as its patrons.