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Monterey
Park
RESTAURANTS
Harbor Village / 2*
I I I N ATLANTIC BLVD. MONTEREY PARK; 626/300-8833
Conventional wisdom has it that you may find better Cantonese seafood
next door at Ocean Star, but that the dim sum is better at Harbor Village.
Harbor Village is the Southern California branch of a hugely successful
Hong Kong restaurant. And when it comes to dim sum, this is among the
best dim sum-eries in town. Service here is done in the Hong Kong
fashion: if you want something, you have to flag down one of the many
dim sum ladies—and then fend her off as she tries to turn your request
for one or two items into a dozen. (Are the dim sum ladies working on
commission?) As you order, the bill on your table is stamped (the tradition
of counting dishes has begun to vanish), with a mark placed next to each
item ordered, ranging from $1.50 a plate up to $3 a plate. The sweet roast
pork filling in the steamed cha siu bao is rich with flavor, sweet yet
quite subtle. The shrimp har gow and shui mai (little pastry flowers stuffed
with a variety of meats) are well-nigh perfect, presented hot in their
little steamers. If you feel up to venturing off the well-beaten dumpling
path, try the marinated octopus or the intensely crispy ribs dim sum,
and then some. $; AE, MC, V; no checks; lunch, dinner every day; full
bar; reservations recommended; northwest corner of Atlantic Blvd and Garvey
Ave.
Lake Spring / 2.5*
219 E GARVEY AVE, MONTEREY PARK; 626/280-3571
Lake Spring is one of the few Shanghai-style restaurants this side of
Hong Kong. The heavy, rich cooking of Shanghai stands in direct contrast
to the lighter, simpler style found at most Cantonese eateries. One of
the great delights of Shanghai cuisine is the hairy crabs that show up
on the menu every autumn, filled with roe and served steamed, with ginger
tea and vinegar sauce—a true delicacy. Shanghai cooking involves
a lot of sauces—both a pungent red sauce, and an intense brown one,
as well as soy sauce and sesame oil. The meat of choice here, visible
on virtually every table, is pork, served as a large rump roast cooked
long and slow in a sauce of soy and rock sugar. It's a wonderful creation,
but one that tends to completely obliterate your ability to eat anything
else on the menu as it could easily feed four. Much of the rest of the
menu is pork based as well: shrimp and shredded pork with bean curd soup;
salted pork with bamboo shoot casserole; shredded dry bean cake and pork;
pepper-seasoned pork chops; sweet-and-sour pork chops; and more. $; AE,
MC, V; no checks; lunch, dinner every day; beer only; reservations recommended;
north side of Garvey Are east of Atlantic Blvd.
Ocean Star / 3*
145 N ATLANTIC BLVD, MONTEREY PARK; 626/308-2128
The dominant Hong Kong-style seafood palace in the San Gabriel Valley
rambles through a series of large rooms, which can be reconfigured to
hold parties of various sizes. On a good evening the main dining room
is full, offering the opportunity to watch dozens of family groups convene
for a fine feed of fresh-from-the-tanks lobster, crab, shrimp, abalone,
oys-
ters, clams, and a wide assortment of still-twitching fish. If there's
a special on the lobster, by all means order it—"special"
usually means half price. The deal often extends to shrimp as well, and
there's hardly any thing better than a platter of flamingo pink shrimp
fresh from the wok, At. lightly flavored with garlic. Pan-fried oysters
with spicy salt are also remarkable; their crisp salty crust crackles
when you bite into it. But don't just stick to the menu. Check out what
others are eating and you might see unlisted dishes like stir-fried pea
vines, one of the great vegetables of the world. If you're lucky enough
to be here when a wedding is
going on, you'll be entertained by guests who, after downing a bottle
of Chivas Regal that they've brought in, head for the mike to serenade
the bride and groom with Cantonese love songs. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks;
lunch, dinner every day; beer and wine only; reservations required; northwest
corner of Atlantic and Garvey.
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