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RESTAURANTS
Anacapa Restaurant / 2.5
304 12TH ST. MANHATTAN BEACH; 310/546-4777
Named for one of the offshore Channel Islands, Anacapa, which launched
in 1998, is the most refreshing and sophisticated restaurant to open here
m a long time and reflects restaurateur Greg McNally's time spent honing
his craft in San Francisco's competitive food scene. Sporting a low-key
but chic decor of sisal flooring, sandy celadon walls, and warm, subdued
lighting, the interior strives for a Key West ambience accented by weathered
trunks, starfish, and faded nautical maps. Comfy wicker chairs fill a
dining room enclosed by green-house windows that afford sunset views,
and the menu features both New American dishes and compositions influenced
by chef Jason Segal's island experience with Hawaiian Regional cuisine.
Look for fresh fish specials-flown in daily from Hawaii- hke ono (wahoo)
prepared Pacific Rim-style with Thai sticky nce, black bean sauce, and
fresh ginger. Ahi tuna gets two treatments, either blackened with pickled
Napa cabbage and black bean-sesame vinaigrette, or barely seared and glazed
with tangy soy mustard. High-quality filet mignon comes with fragrant
thyme-cabernet sauce and creamy Gorgonzola potatoes, and the crab cake
appetizer is also a winner. Anacapa also earns kudos for its user-friendly
wine list, organized by price and featuring expertly chosen bottles from
California's underrated Central Coast. $$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; dinner
Tues-Sun, brunch Sun; full bar; reservations recom-mended;1/2 block east
of Highland Ave.
Cafe Pierre / 1.5*
317 MANHATTAN BEACH BLVD, MANHATTAN BEACH; 310/545-5252
For years this small bistro has been considered one of the South Bay's
premier dining spots, and crowds of locals reluctant to drive to L.A.'s
West side still fill the place every night of the week. Though no longer
cutting-edge, the restaurant continues to hold its own within the context
of this laid-back beach community, offering a smidgen of pretension along
with its self-coined "Cali-Franco" cuisine. The decor is bright
and brassy, with gold and copper tones and black lacquer tempered by a
collection of Art Deco lithographs. Picture windows open onto the sidewalk
scene along busy Manhattan Beach Boulevard, making the cafe less
romantic than you might expect. Once seated, you can begin nibbling on
marinated kalamata olives or a selection of fresh crusty bread with gourmet
dipping oils. Cafe Pierre serves excellent martinis, especially those
made with fruit-infused vodkas (watermelon, pineapple, or mango) from
decorative jars adorning the bar. The restaurant also boasts a superior
wine list. The menu, which combines straightforward bistro favorites with
dishes given an eclectic fusion twist, makes for mouthwatering reading,
but those in the know stick with reliable standards like roasted salmon
atop fennel mashed potatoes crowned with a crispy potato bird's nest;
or peppered filet mignon with either cognac or Roquefort sauce and accompanied
by a mound of pommes frites. Linguine and risotto are both prepared with
a medley of fresh seafood (baby octopus, rock shrimp, scallops, mussels,
clams), and ahi tuna tartare joins a list of more traditional starters
like escargots and French onion soup gratinee. $$-$$$; AE, MC, V; no checks;
lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; Vi
block east of Highland Ave.
Fonz's Restaurant / 2*
1017 MANHATTAN AVE, MANHATTAN BEACH; 310/376-1536
Opened in 1997 by renowned surfer and local hero Mike Dodd, this casual
gourmet-tinged bistro is named in tribute to Dodd's dad, nick named "Fonz"
for his retro 1950s hairstyle. Amidst a decor that blends richly sponge-painted
walls and bright watercolors with tables dressed down by brown paper laid
over white linen tablecloths, Dodd and his wife proudly but discreetly
display family photos and mementos of athletic victories. Fonz, who passed
away in 1994, was beloved for making the family home a welcome place for
the kids and their friends, and the Dodds bring the same spirit to their
restaurant, where even new cus- tomers are treated like expected friends.
Long before any tables are filled, crowds have already gathered at the
long bar that's separated from the dining room by a simple partition.
The menu is strong on steaks and seafood, featuring the kind of hearty
dinners you might get at your best friend's house—if their mom or
dad had been perusing the latest foodie
magazines. Seared Australian rack of lamb is soaked with rosemary garlic
sauce, blackened swordfish is dressed with a delicious tropical fruit
salsa, filet mignon arrives atop seared spinach and surrounded by Marsala-shallot
sauce, and even that old stand-by meat loaf is gussied up with whole-grain
mustard sauce. Fish selections vary with the day's haul, but can include
grilled escolar, fresh ahi tuna, or rock shrimp in a variety of preparations.
Potatoes are a common side dish—rich, creamy, and flavored with
roasted garlic, tomato-basil, or wasabi. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks; dinner
every day, brunch Sun; full bar; reservations recom-
mended; between 10th and llth Sts.
Good Stuff / 1.5*
1300 HIGHLAND AVE, MANHATTAN BEACH (AND BRANCHES); 310/545-4775
A mainstay of local casual dining, this popular crowd-pleaser suits beachgoers,
lunch-breakers, and families alike because there's something for everyone.
Inside the gray clapboard corner restaurant you'll find brightly painted
marine-themed murals and lifeguard memorabilia; picture windows let in
the sunshine. On nice days the outdoor patio fills first,
built with glass railings to ensure a good vantage on bustling downtown
M.B.'s human parade. Cheerful servers positively bounce through the restaurant,
clad in casual sport togs and ferrying generous platters of food that's
fresh, carefully prepared, and very affordable. The mile-long menu runs
the gamut, featuring standouts like Santa Fe chicken omelet, cinnamon
swirl French toast, a superb homemade veggie burger, turkey or tuna wrapped
in gourmet tortillas, burritos and Mexican favorites, enormous main course
salads, steaming hot pastas, and a selection of dinner-only entrees. Nightly
bargain "get stuffed" dinners are sized for
satisfaction (but priced under $10)—the seafood stew, for example,
is guaranteed to be filling or your second bowl's on the house. You can't
beat an offer like that, and you can't top Good Stuff. Other locations
include one on the Strand near the Hermosa Beach pier (1286 The Strand;
310/374-2334) and in Redondo Beach (1617 Pacific Coast Highway; 310/316-0262).
$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; breakfast, lunch, dinner every day;
beer and wine; reservations not accepted; www.eatgoodstuff.com; at the
corner of13th St.
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