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RESTAURANTS

Belmont Brewing Company / 1.5*

25 39TH PL, LONG BEACH; 562/433-3891

The best of the local brewpubs, this spot at the base of Belmont Pier features an outdoor patio with a million-dollar harbor view that takes in the Queen Mary, fiery sunsets, and the unusual multicolored street lamps that illuminate the pier after dark. The five respectable house brews include Top Sail (amber) and Long Beach Crude (porter). Inside, the restaurant has an undersea theme, with a giant aquarium and murals featuring tropical fish against a turquoise background. But nearly everyone opts for the relaxing wind-shielded patio, with umbrellas for the midday sun and heat lamps to warm chilly evenings. Seated here, you can listen to the water lapping at the sand, envy the lucky folks whose condos line the waterfront promenade, and enjoy food that goes a step beyond the usual tavern fare. There are plenty of appetizers, of course—favorites like crab cakes, fried calamari, and bruschetta as well as fresh ceviche and steamed artichokes. Pizzas, pastas, main-course salads, and sandwiches
round out a menu that also features lots of seafood and delectable baby back ribs. This casual eatery is ideal for whiling away a pretty afternoon or a low-key evening. $; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; lunch, dinner every day, brunch Sat-Sun; beer and wine; reservations not accepted; www.belmontbrewing.com; west of Ocean Blvd.

Delius / 2.5*

3550 LONG BEACH BLVD. LONG BEACH; 562/426-0694

You might not expect an ambitiously conceived concept restaurant located in a mini-mall close to the freeway to last three months, but Louise and Dave Soizman's Delius has been going strong since 1996. Serving just one seating each evening, Delius offers a prix-fixe dinner according to a menu that changes weekly and reflects British-born chef Louise's excellent culinary sense. Despite its out-of-the-way location a 10-minute drive from downtown Long Beach, Delius creates an intimate romantic ambience insulated from the world outside. Once you enter the richly furnished, Victorian-flavored lounge and dining room, heavy, velvet draperies enclose you in a 45-person salon whose tables are set with a full complement of flatware for each course and stemware for every carefully chosen wine. Cocktails are at 6:30, and dinner begins at 7:15. The seven-course extravaganza includes hors d'oeuvres, soup, appetizer, first course, entree, fruit and cheese, and dessert; a five-wine sampler complements each selection and is just $15 per person. Recent menus have featured crab-and-shrimp-stuffed zucchini flowers, sauteed halibut on penne pasta with porcini sauce, rosemary-and-feta-stuffed filet mignon, grilled chicken with Indian mango chutney, and chipotle crab cakes with ginger-cilantro butter. A harpist entertains on Fridays, and the
restaurant really pulls out the stops for frequent winemaker and holiday dinners. $$$; DC, DIS, MC, V; checks OK; dinner Tues-Sat; beer and wine; reservations required; between Wardlow Rd and 36th St.

Lasher's / 2.5*

3441 E BROADWAY, LONG BEACH; 562/433-0153

Part of the newly hip Broadway corridor through a mainly residential •rv neighborhood, this comfy eatery occupies a masterfully restored historic house, offering dining in a number of rooms or on a quiet brick patio. Billing itself as "an American Restaurant," Lasher's boasts that every menu ingredient is U.S. grown except the imported English Stilton (because "there's just no substitute for real Stilton"). The regional American menu features standout dishes like slow-roasted turkey served Thanksgiving-style year-round, with rich herb-sausage stuffing and pan gravy; Maryland crab cakes available as an appetizer or a main course;
and home-style meat loaf baked with sweet-tangy cranberry glaze and surrounded by rich gravy. Meal presentation is meticulous, with delicate herb sprigs adorning carefully composed plates, and servers are professional and knowledgeable. You'll regret not ordering dessert, especially the genuine Key lime pie or the decadent white chocolate bread pudding
accompanied by two-chocolate sauce. Weekend champagne brunch is meant to evoke a Southern plantation feast, with fancy French Quarter egg dishes, spicy catfish etouffee, and Cajun-spiced fried green tomatoes. $$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; lunch Thurs-Fri, dinner Tues-Sun, brunch Sat-Sun; beer and wine; reservations recommended; corner of
Newport Ave.

The Madison Restaurant & Bar / 2.5*

102 PINE AVE, LONG BEACH; 562/628-8866

Set in one of Pine Avenue's most stunning historic buildings, this elegant 1920s-style supper club offers the grand experience of fine dining in a majestic setting reminiscent of opulent ocean liner dining salons of the day. Coffered mahogany walls, gilded ceiling beams, sparkling oversize crystal chandeliers, and enormous two-story windows framed with rich brocade draperies provide the backdrop for service that's deferential without being stuffy, and a menu that delivers on its promise of fine quality and reliable steaks and seafood. Originally a bank and more recently a private club, the 1890s building has been beautifully restored -A- and features a lavish bar where a library ladder lets the staff reach the highest shelves. Next to the bar, a quiet combo entertains with dinner music from the 1940s, while diners ensconced in padded crescent booths and high-backed chairs unfurl napkins folded to resemble tuxedo jackets.
The Madison serves exceptional dry-aged beef broiled and accompanied by a la carte sides like buttery garlic potatoes, tender asparagus hol- landaise, and perfectly seasoned creamed spinach. The menu includes ; seafood dishes like grilled salmon atop mussels and clams with a creamy ginger-citrus sauce, or oyster-stuffed sole breaded and drizzled with beurre blanc and fragrant fresh dill. The house caesar salad is a winner— crisp romaine wedges with the traditional dressing but with the surprise of capers to provide the salty tang usually expected of anchovies. Desserts are artistic renditions of reliable favorites like sugary apple crumble, or
a s'mores sundae with roasted-marshmallow "antennae." $$$; AE, MC,V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; www.madisonsteakhouse.com; at 1st St.

Shenandoah Cafe / 2*

4722 E 2ND ST, LONG BEACH; 562/434-3469

In an era when "New American" is the culinary buzzword, here's a place where "American" food means only one thing—big, filling portions of regional home-style cuisines. Located in trendy upscale Belmont Shore, the restaurant was part of the first wave of new businesses to open on Second Street and has been a popular mainstay since 1987. The high ceilinged parlor is decorated with hanging quilts, floral wallpaper, and ornate columns; regulars agree it's equal parts New Orleans mansion and Grandma's house. Dinner here is definitely not for vegetarians or light eaters; even fresh fish specialties are given rich and heavy Southern treat-
ments, and meats take up most of the menu. Start by nibbling on the irresistible apple fritters and yeasty dinner rolls brought fresh from the oven by strolling servers, and loosen your belt a notch in anticipation of an enormous meal that also includes soup or salad and starchy side dishes. Recommended specialties include Texas-sized chicken-fried steak with country gravy, Santa Fe-style baby back ribs glazed with smoky chipotle, Cajun-blackened fresh catch of the day, and Granny's deep-fried chicken. Even after stuffing yourself, don't be surprised if you're tempted by rich desserts like bananas Foster or Shenandoah's special double fudge
brownie with ice cream and two chocolate sauces (one order is enough for the whole table). $$; AE, DIS, MC, V; no checks; dinner every day, brunch Sun; beer and wine; reservations recommended; at Park Ave.