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LODGINGS

Hotel Queen Mary / 1.5*

I 126 QUEEN'S HWY, LONG BEACH; 562/432-6964 OR 800/437-2934

If you're too young to have made an Atlantic crossing on one of the grand old luxury liners, staying here might be the closest you'll come to reliving the romance of those historic voyages. A grand stateroom once occupied by royalty or the wealthy elite can be yours for a night—or longer—on the Queen Mary, permanently docked in Long Beach (see the Long Beach
introduction for information about tours). You'll need a sense of adventure and some imagination, though, because these once-lavish quarters aren't that exceptional when compared to contemporary hotels, and few modern amenities have been added lest they destroy the historic authenticity of the ship. Some notable exceptions are private phones and TVs, but the idea is to enjoy the novelty and charm of features like the original porcelain bathroom fixtures, priceless walls paneled in now-extinct tropical hardwoods with intricate Art Deco designs, and the aura of history that pervades each hallway, stateroom, and well-walked deck. Just as in the ship's 1930s heyday, quarters vary widely; try to splurge on an
ocean-view first-class or deluxe stateroom. Because it's a bona fide tourist attraction, the Queen Mary features a full complement of restaurants and bars. Sir Winston's is the ship's very formal dining room, a pricey continental affair best suited for special occasions and expense accounts. The Chelsea is a slightly less fancy seafood grill, and the Promenade Cafe is open all day for casual dining. We recommend Sunday's Champagne Brunch, an overwhelming orgy for gourmands that includes unlimited champagne, ice sculptures, and a harpist. It's served in the ship's Grand Salon, the original ballroom that's so lovely it's worth the price of admission. Don't miss the Observation Bar, a chic Art Deco cocktail lounge
with panoramic skyline view and an interior that's been featured in countless films and TV shows. $-$$$; AE, DIS, MC, V; checks OK; www.queenmary.com; from the end of1-710, follow signs to ship.

Lord Mayor's Inn / 2.5*

435 CEDAR AVE, LONG BEACH; 562/436-0324

Situated in a formerly elite residential neighborhood downtown, this elegant Edwardian home was built in 1904 and belonged to Long Beach's first mayor, Charles H. Windham. He earned his unofficial title of "Lord Mayor" from a group of British beauty contestants visiting the seaside resort, and the nickname stuck. In 1988, after a sensitive restoration that
earned a National Trust for Historic Preservation award, innkeepers Laura and Reuben Brasser opened the area's best bed and breakfast. The main house offers five guest rooms, each furnished with impeccably chosen antiques, luxurious high-quality linens, and heirloom bedspreads and accessories. Though only one bathroom is original to the house, all AJL. rooms now boast private baths so cleverly recreated with vintage fixtures and painstakingly matched materials that it's impossible to tell the new sy from the old. All the rooms are upstairs, and utterly charming; three open "rv onto a wooden deck overlooking the back garden, including the cozy Hawaiian Room, which re-creates the feel of the Victorian Era with an ornately carved wedding bed and other island memorabilia. A white-wicker sun porch overlooks the street, and the entire house radiates the warmth of original wood floors and walls, a Vermont granite hearth, and vintage clocks whose gentle chiming enhances the historic ambience of the inn. Seven more rooms—four with private baths—are available in
two less-formal adjacent cottages, also dating from the early 20th century; they offer a private option for families or those seeking seclusion. Guests gather at their leisure in the main-house dining room for Laura's lavish breakfasts, which include specialties like Old World pancakes with fried apples, delicate asparagus eggs, and hearty stuffed French toast. $-$$; AE, DIS, MC, V; checks OK; www.lordmayors.com; between 4th and 5th Sts.