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LODGINGS

Argyle / 2.5*

8358 SUNSET BLVD. WEST HOLLYWOOD; 323/654-7100OR 800/225-2637

If you like Deco, you'll love the Argyle. The 15-story building originally opened in 1931 as the first all-electric apartments in California. The luxurious abodes were home to Bugsy Siegel, Charlie Chaplin, Marilyn Monroe, and Errol Flynn long before the building was listed on National Register of Historic Places. Today the stunning tower has been converted to a boutique hotel whose 64 guest rooms are smallish but extremely well furnished with period pieces and Italian reproductions that fit the architecture's Deco and Moderne lines. Especially chic are the oval scalloped beds, credenzas that electronically lift and lower the TV and VCR, ultra cool ice buckets, and south-facing rooms with spectacular city views on the higher floors. Anyone desiring a truly glamorous stay should opt for one of the huge rooftop penthouse suites, whose balconies are a prime location for a cocktail party. There's a small but well-equipped gym, com- plete with sauna, cardiovascular machines, and free weights, and a small terrace swimming pool with fabulous plaster palm trees. Round-the clock concierge service helps guests track down anything the hotel itself doesn't offer. The restaurant, fenix, is hot under chef Brandon Boudet, who previously worked with New Orleans's famed Emeril Lagasse and serves New American Cuisine with an emphasis on the Gulf Coast. The restaurant has recently become a hip cocktail spot with the young Hollywood set. $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; checks OK; www.argyle hotel.corn; between Sweetzer Ave and La Cienega Blvd.

Avalon Hotel / 2.5*

9400 W OLYMPIC BLVD, BEVERLY HILLS; 310/277-5221 OR 800/535-4715

Cashing in on the retro craze, this stylish new 88-room boutique hotel is the latest incarnation of the historic Beverly Carlton Hotel, a former haunt of such Golden Era celebs as Marilyn Monroe, Mae West, and Lucy and Desi. The Avalon is situated in three distinct buildings: the original Landmark, the two-story '50s style motor inn (which offers some rooms with kitchenettes), and the five-story Cityscape, with an alluring top-floor penthouse ideal for parties and business meetings. Guest rooms in all three structures combine sophisticated period design elements such as Heywood-Wakefield chairs, Eames cabinets, and George Nelson bubble lamps with such modern-day conveniences as VCRs, CD players, big-screen televisions, multiple phone lines with voice mail, fax machines, and dataport connections. While the hotel's sleek, clean design and sunny pool area with exclusive poolside cabanas attracts the terminally hip, reasonable rates starting at $165 per night make it possible for posers-in- training to check in here as well. A small bar and restaurant in the Landmark building serve hungry guests daily. $$$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; east of Beverly Dr.

The Beverly Hills Hotel and Bungalows / 4*

9641 SUNSET BLVD. BEVERLY HILLS; 310/276-2251 OR 800/283-8885

No hotel in town embodies Hollywood glamour like the Beverly Hills Hotel. Built in 1912, this enormous legendary pink palace with its 12- acre grounds (a preferred spot for fashion shoots) has hosted a slew of famous guests, including Marilyn Monroe, Howard Hughes, Katharine Hepburn, and Elizabeth Taylor, who spent six of her honeymoons here.
A massive $170-milhon renovation by the current owner, the Sultan of Brunei, returned the glamorous retreat to its former glory, with picture- perfect surroundings: banana-leaf wallpaper, a vivid pink and green color scheme, and lush gardens of banana-leaf palms and flowering plants. The 203 guest rooms and bungalows are large and lavishly adorned,with
plenty of gilded furnishings, stereos with CD players, VCRs, and bath- rooms often large enough to live in. Bed and bath linens are designer, and many rooms feature secluded private patios. Some rooms, and all 21 bungalows, have separate entrances for greater privacy. Bungalow #5 has its own private pool, while #7, Marilyn Monroe's favorite, is decorated
to her taste. Sun worshipers and deal makers of several generations continue to congregate at the utterly glamorous Olympic-sized pool and its in-demand cabanas, decked out with televisions, fax machines, direct dial phones, and more, which rent for $150 per day. The property also boasts a number of chic boutiques, a salon, spa, gym, and afternoon tea in the
lobby lounge. If more than a few of the famous Polo Lounge's regulars are now deceased, a new and younger crowd has adopted it as a favorite eating and drinking venue, especially for the classic steak tartare—made tableside—and the Sunday brunch, served inside or in the garden patio. $$$$; AE, DC, MC, V; checks OK; sales@thebeverlyhillshotels.com; www.beverlyhillshotel.com; corner of Rodeo Dr.

Beverly Laurel Motor Hotel / 1*

8018 BEVERLY BLVD. LOS ANGELES; 323/651-2441 OR 800/962.3824

"Retro-chic" would be a good way to describe this cool 52-room lodging just down the road from the Beverly Center. From the exterior, the Beverly Laurel resembles the '50s-style motel that it is: outdoor hallways overlook the ground floor's postage-stamp pool. But inside, spotless rooms have been stylishly redecorated with brilliant blue walls, Deco furnishings, and wooden headboards inlaid with black-and-white photos.
A. Built-in dressers and other fun bygone design elements, mini-refrigerators, and microwaves give the place the convenience of home. Some rooms have kitchenettes, but guests not inclined to cook can head to Swingers diner for coffee-shop cuisine in an ultratrendy setting. Open till the wee hours, this diner-with-an-attitude attracts Hollywood hipsters, so people-watching is definitely on the menu, along with juicy burgers, tuna melts, fries, and creamy milk shakes. Discerning travelers would undoubtedly consider this gussied-up motel nothing more than a dive, but location and would-be stylishness don't come any cheaper than they do at the Beverly Laurel. $; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; west of Fair fax
Ave.

Beverly Plaza Hotel / 2.5*

8384 W 3RD ST, LOS ANGELES; 323/658-6600

Remodeled in 1996, this stylish boutique hotel is known for its 98 hand-some oversized guest rooms and for the little extras often overlooked at many larger hotels. The well-appointed accommodations are decorated in chic Pottery-Barn-meets-Ethan-Allen fashion and include comfy beds, casual sitting areas, and smallish bathrooms. But where this hotel really goes to town is with amenities: such goodies as complimentary taxi service within a five-mile radius, a daily newspaper, natural soaps and shampoos, and Joseph Schmidt chocolates with the nightly turn-down service. There's also an in-house gym, an absolutely tiny outdoor pool,
and a spa with services ranging from facials and massages to body waxing and personal training. The shoebox lobby is not large enough to linger in, but it is the place to rev up on complimentary gourmet coffees and fresh fruit each morning. Adjacent to the lobby, Cava Cafe & Tapas Bar is a festive spot frequented by loyal locals who sample sangria and
tapas in the loud downstairs room or head upstairs for an elegant setting, a flavorful dinner of Spanish-influenced fare by chef/owner Toribio Prado, and live entertainment. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; checks OK; east of La Cienega Blvd.

Casa Malibu Inn on the Beach / 2*

22752 PACIFIC COAST HWY, MALIBU; 310/456-2219 OR 800/831-0858

If you don't have a friend who lives on the beach, a stay at the revamped Casa Malibu Inn is the next best thing. Set on some of California's most coveted coastline, this two-story beachfront motel may not look like much from the street, but pass through the lobby to its charming, flower- filled brick courtyard, and you'll discover a peaceful 21-room hideaway
with its own private stretch of sand and surf that even Frankie and Annette would envy. Guests chose from four types of immaculately kept accommodations: a beachfront suite with a private deck literally on the sand; oceanview rooms; garden-view rooms, which face the alluring copafff de oro-draped courtyard; or one of two minisuites, which have four-star
luxury bathrooms. A private seaside deck, fireplace, Jacuzzi bathtub, and kitchen make the Malibu Suite a slice of SoCal heaven. The Catalina Suite, which was Lana Turner's favorite room, overlooks the courtyard, ocean, and Catalina Island. Whichever room you chose, all are tastefully furnished and provide refrigerators, two-line phones with dataports, and
coffeemakers stocked with Kona-blend coffee. Many also feature fire- places or kitchens. Book your beach weekend well in advance, as this popular inn often fills up months ahead. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks; casamalibu@earthlink.com; south of the Malibu Pier.

The Channel Road Inn / 2.5*

219 W CHANNEL RD, SANTA MONICA; 310/459-1920

This historic former home of Texas oil baron Thomas McCall was originally built in 1910 on Second Avenue and was moved to its current location—near Rustic Canyon and a few blocks from the beach—in 1977. The cheerful blue-shingle-clad Colonial Revival home was converted into a 14-room B&B in 1988, but the spirit of the McCall family lives on today, with family pictures decorating the walls and letters written by Thomas McCall to his youngest daughter, Grace, on display in the inn's fff well-stocked library. An elegant antique-filled living room with a grand fireplace decorated with Batchelder tiles serves as the inn's gathering spot, where guests enjoy complimentary afternoon tea or wine and cheese.
Cozy guest rooms are reminiscent of a charming country inn, with a few featuring decks and fireplaces. Romance reigns in the one suite, where a white-canopied four-poster bed and a Jacuzzi tub for two make for a cozy love nest. Mornings begin with home-baked goods, egg dishes, and gourmet coffees served in a sunny breakfast room that overlooks a patio with bougainvillea and morning glories and the hillside beyond. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks; channelinn@aol.com; east of Pacific Coast Hwy.

Chateau Marmont / 2.5*

8221 SUNSET BLVD. HOLLYWOOD; 323/656-1010 OR 800/242-8328

This funky seven-story gray castle overlooking the Sunset Strip has welcomed Hollywood's royalty since it opened in 1935. Over the years it's been a temporary home to everyone from F. Scott Fitzgerald, Greta Garbo, and Errol Flynn to Kevin Bacon, Minnie Driver, and the unfortunate John Belushi, who met his demise here in a hotel bungalow. After decades of wear and tear, a recent renovation helped restore the grand chateau, but the cosmetic changes haven't altered the unpretentious, casual vibe that can be felt, from the antique-filled lobby and splendid. garden to the rooms and the adorably cozy bungalows. Regardless of the
type of room you choose, expect large apartmentlike accommodations with fashionably homey furnishings, tiled full kitchens and bathrooms, VCRs, cordless phones, and an entertainment center stocked with stereo equipment. There's the requisite pool and fitness center, and the Chateau Marmont offers additional perks such as complimentary cell phones,
stereo systems, and a CD library. The small nameless restaurant serving casual California cuisine is one of the Strip's most intimate rooms, while around the corner trendy Bar Marmont is the spot to throw back a couple of cocktails and snack on Asian-inspired appetizers, grilled steaks, and seafood in the best of style. $$$$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; chateaula@aol.com, www.prima-hotels.com/US-holly.htm; west of Crescent Heights Blvd.

Clarion Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel / 2*

7000 HOLLYWOOD BLVD. HOLLYWOOD; 323/466-7000

Once one of Hollywood's grandest hotels, today the Roosevelt caters largely to tourists who crave being in the heart of Hollywood—on Hollywood Boulevard across from Mann's Chinese Theatre. Unfortunately, what these out-of-town visitors don't realize is that "The Avenue of Dreams" isn't all that glamorous. However, the historic hotel offers plenty of Golden Era nostalgia. Opened in 1927, the Roosevelt was the site of the first Academy Awards ceremony and counted Marilyn Monroe as one of its famous residents for more than eight years. Today the Art Deco lobby and the abundance of Hollywood memorabilia are beautiful to behold. Unfortunately, even a 1985 renovation couldn't alter the fact that rooms are small, bathrooms are tiny, and walls are thin. The floral bedspreads and dark wood furnishings do help some, but not enough to be considered impressive. If ghosts count as celebrity sightings, the Roosevelt is a prime spot to be on the lookout. Rumor has it that the other worldly spirits of several old Hollywood clients continue to frequent the hotel, including Montgomery Clift, who supposedly haunts room 928, and Marilyn Monroe, whose face has reportedly appeared in her old wardrobe mirror, which now hangs in the lower lobby. The hotel's Olympic-size pool, with its bottom that was painted by David Hockney, is where living (and not-so-famous) guests now tend to commune—especially when the sun is shining and the Tropicana Bar serves up poolside libations. Steaks, seafood, and pastas are available in a casual setting at mediocre Theodore's; or you can order appetizers while watching live music or dancing at the historic Cinegrill. $$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; checks OK; vww.hollywoodroosevelt.com; east of La Brea Ave.

Figueroa Hotel / 1*

939 S FIGUEROA ST, LOS ANGELES; 213/627-8971 OR 800/421-9092

Step into this 12-story Spanish-style hotel, which was built in 1925 as a YWCA, and you're immediately transported to a Mexican oasis, even though the downtown skyline and the nearby L.A. Convention Center make up the backdrop for the enchanting 285-room hostelry. It's not a luxury property by any stretch of the imagination, but the architecture,
the hotel's efforts to gussy up the place, and the relatively inexpensive price tag make a stay here a bargain. The grand, intricately detailed lobby is a glorious sight to behold, with its towering hand-painted ceilings, Southwestern tiles, wrought-iron chandeliers, and exotic potted palm trees. The Spanish influence carries over into the terra-cotta-colored rooms, where a jumble of hand-painted Mexican furnishings, funky worn appointments, old TVs, ceiling fans, and limited amenities manage to magically work together to create cheap-chic style. Behind the hotel is the patio's small pool, which is surrounded by flowering vines and potted plants, and the festive poolside Verandah Bar, an ideal spot for afternoon margaritas. The hotel's lobby restaurant, Pasta Frenzy, serves American breakfasts every morning and Italian food every night. Free parking is an especially welcome bonus. $; DC, JCB, MC, V; no checks; at Olympic Blvd.

Four Seasons Hotel at Beverly Hills / 4*

300 S DOHENY DR, LOS ANGELES; 310/273-2222 OR 800/332-3442

The Four Seasons at Beverly Hills is a refined and legendary Hollywood hot spot. As expected from a hotel catering to a distinctively demanding clientele, the 16-story Beverly Hills beauty is known for its amenities and impeccable service—so much so that it ranked number 9 in all of North America in the Conde Nast Traveler Readers' Awards. Public spaces are adorned with exquisite art, delicious sitting areas, and grand floral arrangements—all surrounded by small but masterfully manicured gardens. The 285 guest rooms were recently redecorated in a residential style with blond woods and pastels, but what remains are the chain's heavenly legendary mattresses, VCRs, ministereos with CDs, state-of-the-art telephone system with IPORT jacks for direct access to Tl lines, and superb
bathrooms. The splendidly chichi fourth-floor terrace pool has lovely views of Beverly Hills and the Hollywood hills, although it's just as gratifying to cast your sight on the clientele basking in their bronzed beauty— especially from one of the six cabanas, which, unlike at most other local hotels, are available at no charge. Adjoining the pool is the fabulous fit-
ness center, housed in a chic tented space and stocked with various workout machines, most with individual televisions. The hotel's business center offers IBM and Macs with Tl connections. Gardens chef Carrie Nahabedian makes dining a worthy endeavor and power-breakfasting an L.A. tradition (see review), while the newly revamped Cafe offers lighter
fare in a more casual setting. The hotel's bar is notable for its fabulous martinis and its savvy singles. Guests can request the hotel's limousine for a quick shopping excursion to nearby Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, ]CB, MC, V; no checks; ww.fourseasons.com; between Burton Way and 3rd St.

The Georgian Hotel / 2*

1415 OCEAN AVE, SANTA MONICA; 310/395-9945 OR 800/538-8147

A favorite hangout of dark Gable and Carole Lombard, this 84-room Art Deco gem was restored to its original grandeur with a $5-million renovation in 1994. During its colorful history the building has functioned as one of L.A.'s first speakeasies during Prohibition, a favorite watering hole for Bugsy Siegel and Fatty Arbuckle, and, in the '60s, a senior citi-
zens' hotel. Today, the yellow-and-light-blue beauty, with its stately period facade, looks like a South Beach Miami transplant overlooking Palisades Park and the beach. The graceful archways and ornate moldings in the 1930s lobby are truly reminiscent of a bygone era and is
worthy of its recognition from the National Trust for Historic Preservation's Historic Hotels of America. Guest rooms are decorated in period style, with floral bedspreads, sleek chaise longues, and such modern conveniences as fax machines, dataport telephones, coffeemakers with Starbucks coffee, and video games. A complimentary breakfast is served each morning on the veranda (allegedly one of Arnold Schwarzenegger's favorite power-dining spots) or in your room. $$$; AE, DC, JCB, MC, V; no checks; georgianhotel@georgianhotel.com; www.georgianhotel. corn; between Santa Monica Blvd and Broadway.

Hotel Bel-Air / 4*

701 STONE CANYON RD, LOS ANGELES; 310/472-121 I OR 800/648-4097

Hotel Bel-Air is Los Angeles's most romantic luxury hotel. Its exclusive Bel-Air address, pastoral atmosphere, and superb accommodations, amenities, and service are the reason even locals are willing to pay a premium to retreat to one of its 92 guest rooms (including 40 suites) located on 11 1/2 acres. The ultimate Bel-Air escape begins when guests enter the
property via a short bridge over a creek inhabited by a trio of white swans. Charming pathways wind through lushly grown gardens of bougainvillea, azaleas, and camellias to stellar accommodations scattered throughout the mostly pink Mission-style hotel. Every sweetly appointed guest room is unique—some have Jacuzzis, many have fireplaces and patios—but all share country French decor, high-tech amenities— including VCRs and ministereos with CD players—and Bulgari bath room accessories. The secluded garden pool, once a riding ring, is a peaceful spot to unwind with a good book, but those in need of a more active pastime can head to the well-equipped gym, housed in a bungalow that was once Marilyn Monroe's favorite retreat. With dignitaries and high-profile celebrities invariably lounging in the romantic wood-paneled bar, formal restaurant, and bougainvillea-draped patio, it's no surprise cameras are not allowed. Under executive chef Gary Clauson, The Restaurant, with its year-round roaring fire and patio with heated floors, is one of L.A.'s favorites—especially for Sunday brunch (see review in the Restaurants section). $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, }CB, MC, V; checks OK; 1 mile north of Sunset Blvd.

Hotel Del Capri / 1.5*

10587 WILSHIRE BLVD. LOS ANGELES; 310/474-351 I OR 800/44HOTEL

Its exterior gives little indication that this homey hotel/motel is a tropical oasis, sandwiched between Westwood's chichi high-rise condos. But once you're inside the door there's no escaping the relaxing, kick-back vibe. Tropical fish tanks dot the property, and to get to your room in either building you'll have to pass a sunny courtyard where the pool, garden, and fountains are surrounded by blossoms and trumpet vines. With motel-room entrances facing the pool, the 79-room property does have a Melrose Place apartment complex feel, but that's generally fine with the clientele, since many are touring dance or other performance companies who enjoy the community atmosphere. Standard rooms are fairly large, but more than half of the units are one- and two-bedroom suites, with a separate bedroom, living room, pull-out sofa, and kitchenette. Hotel rooms are in an older building next door. Hotel Del Capri has been owned by the same family since it opened in 1954. It's especially known for its friendly staff, who gladly assist with travel plans or arrange for a free shuttle to nearby UCLA or Westwood Village. A complimentary break- fast (including a bagel with cream cheese or Danish, cereal, juice, and coffee) can be delivered to your room each morning or served poolside. While there's no restaurant, the hotel has worked out agreements with
35 local dining establishments to deliver lunches and dinners. $; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; www.hoteldelcapri.com; east of Westwood Blvd.

Hotel Nikko at Beverly Hills / 3*

465 S LA CIENEGA BLVD. LOS ANGELES; 310/247-0400

This gem of a hotel doesn't always get the attention it deserves—over- looked, perhaps, because of its boxlike exterior. Inside, though, it's understated and elegant, designed with a strong—and well executed— Japanese influence. The Nikko, conveniently located just south of the Beverly Center, has an inviting lobby filled with black granite, beautiful plants, and a Japanese rock garden with a constantly changing fountain. The 295 guest rooms (including 8 suites) are attractive yet spartan in the Nikko's blend of Eastern minimalism and high-tech elegance. In-room cordless phones work anywhere on the property. Translucent shoji
screens block the glare of outside light during the day, and a second opaque screen slides over the windows at night to filter out the morning sun. Every item of furnishing is well chosen, from the single print that adorns the bedroom to the attractive armoire that contains a television, VCR, and compact disc player. Luxuries are of the functional kind, such as the deep Japanese soaking tubs in each modern bathroom—unless, of course, you check into a suite, which are contenders for the most stylish in town. A medium-sized pool is adjacent to the lobby, and the larger- than-average gym is well stocked with cardiovascular equipment, free weights, and television sets. The Hana Bar is a fine place to enjoy a cocktail, while Pangea serves "Asian-infused world cuisine," except during its Sunday brunch, when live smooth jazz accompanies classic American dishes from eggs Benedict to made-to-order omelets. $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, }CB, MC, V; checks OK; between 6th and 3rd Sts.

Hotel Oceana / 2.5*

849 OCEAN AVE, SANTA MONICA; 310/393-0486

Colorful whimsy and 63 one-bedroom suites set this bright yellow three-story hotel apart from other options in the area. While its courtyard setting with a centerpiece swimming pool is meant to evoke the south of France, its atmosphere could be likened to a modern Me/rose Place— minus the melodrama. But there is a sense of drama in the rooms, where the owners' playful taste is conveyed through vivid yellows, blues, and pinks and artsy furnishings combined with all the comforts of home. All A. guest accommodations come complete with marble bathrooms stocked with Neutrogena amenities and fully equipped gourmet kitchens. The, bedroom's linens are Frette (100% Egyptian cotton), duvets are down, and the designer headboards are reminiscent of Matisse. Breakfast is delivered daily along with a newspaper, and, for those who don't want to cook or go out for the other meals, there's room service from the nearby Wolfgang Puck Cafe. Despite its small size, the hotel does its best to accommodate guests, with a concierge and a business center. But most visitors check in here to enjoy the beach (across the street) and the central location, near all of Santa Monica's action. $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; checks OK; beachsuite@aol.com; www.smweb.com/oceana; between Montana Ave and Wilshire Blvd.

Hotel Sofitel / 2.5*

8555 BEVERLY BLVD, LOS ANGELES; 310/278-5444

This 10-story French-owned hotel is a peaceful and sophisticated European oasis in the midst of the central Los Angeles action. You need only step into the impeccable lobby, and the soothing piped-in classical music erases all big-city angst. But should you choose to submerge yourself, the Beverly Center mall is across the street and Restaurant Row is a few blocks down. The grand staircase may be more for show than for use (since most guests take the elevator), but it is an attractive introduction to the 311 rooms, which are decorated in French-country splendor, with lush fabrics in vibrant shades of navy and terra-cotta, cushy sofas, and
lovely floral wallpaper. Even the hotel's small 24-hour fitness center has French-country appointments. There's a good-sized pool and sun deck, but the echoing sounds of Beverly Boulevard and La Cienega traffic make relaxation a challenge. Regardless, it's the little extras—from a red rose, a bottle of Evian, and chocolates at nightly turn-down service to a fresh baked baguette upon checkout—that keep foreign tourists and business people returning again and again. Gigi, the hotel's casual brasserie, serves traditional bistro fare such as quiche, steak frites, and chicken. $$$; AE, DIS, JCB, MC, V; no checks; ofireserv@aol.com, www.sofitel.com; at La Cienega Blvd.

Inn at Playa del Rey / 2.5*

435 CULVER BLVD. PLAYA DEL REY; 310/574-1920

From its Cape Cod-style architecture to its location on the edge of the 350-acre Ballona Wetlands bird sanctuary, this 21-room B&B has a distinctly East Coast feel. Distressed wood furnishings and designer beds— four-posters or hand-painted antiques—give the artfully decorated rooms a country inn appeal, although bathrooms are notably modern,
with shower tubs or Jacuzzis. Couples in search of romance should check into one of the intimate inn's spacious View Suites, overlooking the wet lands and neary Marina del Rey. Their wrought-iron four-poster beds fff are seductive, but the romantic piece de resistance is their two-sided fire- place, which warms the bedroom and casts a heavenly glow on the bath-
room's Jacuzzi tub for two. Guests can also soak under the stars in the inn's garden hot tub out back. In the morning hours, the enticing aroma of gourmet coffees and homemade muffins and coffee cakes lures guests to a sunny nook with hardwood floors and a roaring fireplace, where baked goods, souffles, made-to-order egg dishes, juices, and coffees await.
The bright and airy living room—with its French doors opening out onto the wetlands —serves as the site for an afternoon toast at the inn's daily wine and cheese gathering. $$; AE, DIS, MC, V; checks OK; playainn® aol.com; www.innaccess.com/pdr/; south of Jefferson Blvd.

Le Merigot / 3*

1740 OCEAN AVE, SANTA MONICA; 310/395-9700 OR 800/926-9524

Santa Monica may be California casual, but this brand-new European inspired hotel, which opened in late 1999, is bringing a bit of French Riviera sophistication to the quasi-cosmopolitan beach town. Situated next to Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel and across the street from the beach, the elegant new property attracts tourists with its luxurious, contempo-
rary decor and business travelers with its professional amenities, including executive desks and work areas, modem hookups, voice mail, and two phone lines in each of its 175 rooms. An extensive fitness center and spa boasts saunas, steam rooms, massage facilities, Pilates, kick- boxing, and aerobic training. A member of Preferred Hotels and Resorts Worldwide, the hotel has two restaurants: the casual Cafe Promenade serves up light California cuisine, while the hotel's formal dining room, Cezanne, specializes in an interesting fusion of French, Asian, and Latin- American fare. $$$$; AE, DC, JCB, MC, V; no checks; near 5th St and
Colorado Ave.

L'Ermitage / 4*

9291 BURTON WAY, BEVERLY HILLS; 310/278-3344 OR 800/323-7500

The newest luxury property in Beverly Hills, L'Ermitage is sleek, sophisticated, and very contemporary, which is not surprising, since the 124- room hotel just underwent a $60 million renovation. Today it's a very design-conscious hotel, with a staff in Armani-esque uniforms and a rule that no brass or bronze fixtures are to appear anywhere. The chic-mini- malist guest rooms, accented with quarter-paneled English sycamore, are unusually large— beginning at 675 square feet—and overflowing with amenities. An entertainment center opens to showcase a 40-inch Mitsubishi TV, complete with DVD player (and a library of CDs and DVDs for guests to borrow), and an in-room fax. Five telephones include a cell phone for guests to use around the city during their stay. A wet bar comes stocked with liquor, complimentary nonalcoholic drinks, and real crystal. And the enormous modern bathrooms have no shortage ofAveda products. Topping it off are fantastic frivolous goodies such as personalized cards and stationery with your private phone and fax numbers and a lovely Japanese-style box of chocolate and dried fruit presented upon check-in. As if that weren't enough, the high-tech hotel has in-room motion sensors that tell housekeeping whether guests are in or out. The rooftop pool, with its 360-degree views, is equally lovely by day or night,
and the seasonal Pool Terrace offers light fare. The large and well- equipped gym greets guests with fresh-squeezed juice and Beverly Hills views. The small, very beautiful Restaurant, with its high domed ceiling, runs smoothly under chef Serge Falestich, who offers his "cuisine du soleil," a blend of Provence and Tuscany with Asian flair. Smokers can
retreat to the Executive Center, with its private humidors and honor bar. $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; no checks; www.lermitagehotel.com; between Doheny Dr and Rexford Dr.

Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel /2.5*

1700 OCEAN AVE, SANTA MONICA; 310/458-6700 OR 800/235-6397

Perched above the beach, Loews' dramatic eight-story glass atrium manages to telegraph both sophistication and casual beach vibe, from its sunny and enormous lobby to the 343 rooms and suites. Guest rooms can be small, but are pleasantly decorated in beach resort style, with bleached rattan and wicker furniture and windows that open to the sound of crashing waves. While the hotel is only a minute's walk from a good stret of Santa Monica beach, it also has its own recreation, from the new Pritikin Longevity Spa & Fitness Center with its spacious gym ., stocked with high-tech workout machines, to a half-covered pool area where deck chairs and chaise longues surround the water and spread out to the end of the deck overlooking the beach. The Ocean Lounge is a full bar with nightly live music, from solo piano to jazz trio and vocalist. But the most exciting news at Loews is the arrival of chef Alain Giraud, who spent a decade at Citrus with star chef Michel Richard. Now Giraud runs
Lavande, the delightful Provencal restaurant at the hotel, where guests receive a sachet of the herb with their checks (see review). $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; checks OK; www.loewshotels.com; between Pico Blvd and Colorado Ave.

Luxe Summit Hotel Bel-Air / 2.5*

11461 SUNSET BLVD, LOS ANGELES; 310/476-6571 OR 800/468-3541

Situated in the backyard of the Getty Center Museum, this 162-room hotel attracts loads of art enthusiasts who opt to take the hotel's shuttle to and from the busy museum rather than wait months to score a parking reservation. Set on 7 acres, the former Radisson hotel offers enough tropical greenery to keep a slew of gardeners eternally busy. Though dated,
the simply decorated rooms are well kept and fairly good sized, with many featuring patios and balconies that overlook the expansive grounds. A pool, tennis courts, and a small fitness center provide plenty of activity options. There's also an impressive menu of spa services, with excellent facialists who attract a local Bel-Air clientele. If you don't have a problem
ordering rack of lamb or filet mignon from a laminated menu, you can dine in the hotel's Cafe Bel-Air. However, the restaurant's lunch menu of salads and sandwiches is a safer bet. Off the lobby, Oasis piano bar and patio is a nice place to relax and unwind. On weekends, this hotel is a popular wedding reception site, so be prepared for lots of lobby traffic.
$$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; checks OK; west of the 405 Fwy.

Malibu Beach Inn / 2*

22878 PACIFIC COAST HWY, MALIBU; 310/456-6444 OR 800/4-MALIBU

Everyone can reside on beachfront property—at least for a couple of nights—at this Spanish-style inn, set on the sand near the Malibu Pier. The inn's Spanish theme travels from the lobby—with its gurgling terracotta fountains and paver tile floors—to guest rooms and bathrooms decorated with hand-painted tiles, and white stucco walls accented with
pastels. Modern amenities—honor bar, coffeemaker, VCR, and in-room A- safe—are neatly integrated into the well-stocked rooms, and plush robes are provided. Each of the three-story pink palace's 47 rooms features dazzling Pacific views from private balconies, with all but six offering fireplaces (also adorned with hand-painted tiles) and many with two-person
Soft Tub Jacuzzis on the balconies. Fire pits light the evening skies on the hotel's oceanfront patio—and when the sun rises and the fires have died out, this sunny terrace serves as the setting for a complimentary continental breakfast. Though there's no pool and no restaurant on the premises, steps lead to the pristine Pacific shore, and 24-hour room service is
provided by nearby Marmalade Cafe. $$$; AE, DC, JCB, MC, V; no checks; www.malibubeachinn.com; adjacent to the Malibu Pier.

Malibu Country Inn / 2*

6506 WESTWARD BEACH RD, MALIBU; 310/457-9622 OR 800/FUN-N-SURF

Whether you're trying to finish that big screenplay or looking for a discreet locale to carry on an affair, this 16-room inn in northern Malibu is a great place to escape for a secluded getaway. The reclusive retreat sits high on a bluff overlooking the Pacific, surrounded by 3 acres of flowering rose bushes and tropical gardens. The inn itself is covered with
bougainvillea and other flowering shrubs, which add to its private, pastoral ambience. Wicker furnishings and floral prints give the smallish rooms a country feel, while French doors lead out to sunny individual patios, many of which feature Jacuzzis. In-room refrigerators and cof-
feemakers make it possible to hole up in your room for days. But for those who want to enjoy the surroundings, there's a pool and plenty of spots to soak up the Malibu sun. The tiny, casual Hideaway Cafe serves a complimentary breakfast daily. Salads and sandwiches are offered for lunch, with dinner served on weekends only. $$$; AE, MC, V; no checks;
at Pacific Coast Hwy.

Miramar Sheraton Hotel / 2*

101 WILSHIRE BLVD. SANTA MONICA; 310/576-7777 OR 800/325-3535

The Miramar Sheraton, which recently underwent a $50 million renovation, is a casually elegant property that happens to be President Clinton's preferred L.A. hotel. Accommodations—302 of them in all- are divided among the 10-story tower, the 6-story Palisades building, and bungalows, but all are situated atop the scenic bluffs overlooking Santa Monica beach and the Pacific Ocean. The seaside setting is key, but the interior ambience has its own merits, such as an impressive art collection and a striking lobby with rattan furnishings, Persian throw rugs, and stunning Jupirana marble floors trimmed with pink and white marble. Rooms in the tower feature ocean views, balconies, and contemporary
furnishings. The Palisades building, built in 1924, has more traditional appointments and larger rooms. The 32 garden bungalows, some of which are bi-level suites, offer the most privacy and luxury and have hardwood floor entrances, CD players, and marble baths. Some bunga-
lows have special equipment for the physically challenged. Every room has three phones and two lines, a coffeemaker and complimentary Starbucks coffee, and daily newspaper delivery. A 4,000-foot health center is open 24 hours and has sauna, steam room, Jacuzzi, and cardiovascular and weight training equipment. The salon. Club Sante, offers massage,
hair care, and manicures. The Grille, which has a few tables overlooking the pool, serves contemporary California cuisine, with everything from seafood to lamb. More casual, the Cafe offers choices from meatloaf to sandwiches. The hotel also has a health spa and fitness center, as well as a pool and Jacuzzi. $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; checks OK;
www.sheraton.com/miramar; between Ocean Ave and 2nd St.

Mondrian / 2.5*

8440 SUNSET BLVD. LOS ANGELES; 323/650-8999

Hotelier lan Schrager, with the assistance of terminally trendy designer Philippe Starck, has converted the Mondrian into a shrine to all things hip. The 30-foot mahogany doors on Sunset dwarf the Range Rovers and Porsches waiting for valet parking. Modelesque doormen, in Armani-like beige uniforms, welcome guests to the lobby. Young black-clad hipsters loll at the lobby bar's one long table or in the small gift shop that sells only the coolest of knickknacks. White is the dominant color in all 238 of the guest accommodations, which are an intriguing blend of spartan and luxurious with their modern decor, single orchid, and faint messages- painted on the walls. Unfortunately, the hotel's veneer of fabulousness is
thinned by the often inattentive staff, who were clearly hired more for their looks than for their professionalism. Still, the eye candy is abundant, and there's also a gym, interesting art, and designer furniture sprinkled throughout the property. But the most talked about attraction is the perennially hip SkyBar, an open-air lounge run by Cindy Crawford's husband, Rande Gerber, who revitalized the town's velvet rope policies. By day the lounge, which is brilliantly designed with huge mattresses for lounging, enormous pots harboring small trees, and a pool overlooking the flatlands, is the prime spot to watch young Hollywood flaunt bikini bodies. At night, hotel guests are guaranteed admission, while the Sunset Strip minions have to wait outside for the doorman's nod of approval. New York's Asia de Cuba recently took over the restaurant's dining room and terrace. $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; checks OK; www.mondrian hotel.com; between La Cienega Blvd and Olive St.

New Otani Hotel & Garden / 2*

120 S LOS ANGELES ST, LOS ANGELES; 213/629-1200 OR 800/273-2294

This very Japanese hotel is found, appropriately enough, in the Little Tokyo section of downtown Los Angeles. During the week, the 21-story, 434-room hotel draws a crowd of business people. But as the lawyers and others head home for the weekend, the New Otani lays out the weekend welcome mat for vacationers with a variety of special packages, including "The Japanese Experience," complete with massage, Japanese-style room with rut-on bed, deep soaking tub, and in-room tea-maker, which make it easy to enjoy the hotel's relaxing, slightly exotic atmosphere. (Western-style rooms are also available.) A Thousand Cranes, which serves classical Japanese cuisine, has a koto player and offers a lovely
view of the hotel's elaborate garden. Diners sit either at standard Western tables, or on the floor, at traditional Japanese-style settings, and waitresses wear formal kimonos. The menu lists several sakes of varying degrees of dryness; all are served in beautiful, jewel-like, clear glass containers and cups. The Garden Grill offers teppanyaki, in which the food is prepared and cooked tableside, while Azalea serves American cuisine.
A half-acre garden on a third-floor setback, created by landscape artist Sentaru Iwaki, employs the technique of shakkei ("borrowed scenery") to make use of distant landscapes—the skyline of downtown Los Angeles, in this case—to frame the garden. The tsuro, or path, through tiny ponds, miniature waterfalls, and distinctive stone lanterns in New
Otani's garden is not just a walkway, but with each step becomes a separation from the gritty realities of modern city life. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; no checks; www.newotani.com; between 1st and 2nd Sts.

Peninsula Beverly Hills / 4*

9882 S SANTA MONICA BLVD. BEVERLY HILLS; 310/551-288 OR 800/462-7899

The only AAA five-diamond and Mobil five-star hotel in Southern California, the Peninsula is also one of the most refined hotels. Formality begins with dapper white-clad doormen and continues through the lobby, fff the utterly distinguished Living Room, where high tea is one of the best in town, and into the mahogany bar, where CAA agents and clients share the men's-club atmosphere with players and aspirants. The 196 guest rooms offer a level of luxury rarely matched, with plush beds sporting Frette linens, bedside automated service panels (for lighting, temperature, and do-not-disturb button), fax, Italian marble bathrooms, and 24-hour personal room valets. Hotel amenities are equally impressive, with a 3,500- square-foot gym and spa (recently refurbished to include a hydrotherapy bath and Vichy shower) and a to-die-for rooftop pool and grass-encircled hot tub, the latter a top contender for L.A.'s most romantic spot when the sun sets over the distant Pacific. Heaven forbid guests would have to hoof it to nearby Rodeo Drive; here a complimentary chauffeured escort in the hotel's Rolls-Royce is just a request away. The hotel's award-winning Belvedere restaurant, now under executive chef Bill Bracken, continues to draw locals and visitors with its lovely formal setting and colorful and creative California-Asian cuisine (see review). A lighter, spa-style menu is avail- able at the Roof Garden cafe. $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, }CB, MC, V; checks
OK; pbh@peninsula. corn; between Wilshire Blvd and Lasky Dr.

Regal Biltmore Hotel / 3*

506 S GRAND AVE, LOS ANGELES; 213/624-101 I OR 800/245-8673

The 11-story Regal Biltmore is the oldest and grandest hotel in the down- town area. Since opening its doors in 1923, the Italian-Spanish Renaissance beauty has hosted everyone from the Beatles and Princess Margaret to Presidents Ford, Carter, and Reagan, as well as today's slew of tourists and conventioneers. Ongoing restoration and renovations have secured
the hotel's reputation as a tribute to Old World luxury. It's impossible not to be impressed by the enormous and utterly refined lobby and galleria with hand-painted frescoes, bas-relief decor, and stunning florals; the pristine Gallery Bar and Cognac Room; and the original lobby on the Olive Street side, which is now used for afternoon tea. Its 683 rooms, including those on the more expensive Regal Club and Regal Class floors, are not as stunning as the public areas, but they are all to be completely renovated by the end of 1999, keeping the traditional decor but freshening the rooms with new paint, carpeting, and bedspreads. An additional visual treasure is the Art Deco Health Club, which originally opened in 1926, and now includes the latest Nautilus and Lifecycle-type equipment plus a Roman-style Pompeii replica pool ornamented with imported blue Italian tile, brass railings, and pillars with picture-story
tiles. Of the three restaurants, Bernard's closed in 1999 to reopen as a steakhouse. Sai Sai offers superb Japanese cuisine, from sushi to elaborate multicourse kaiseki meals. For more casual dining, there's Smeraldi's, named for the Italian artisan who originally painted many of the public spaces, with California and Northern Italian cuisines. $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; checks OK; www.regal-hotels.com/losangeles; corner of 5th St.

Regent Beverly Wilshire / 4*

9500 WILSHIRE BLVD. BEVERLY HILLS; 310/275 5200 OR 800/427-4354

The Regent Beverly Wilshire may be forever known for its starring role in Pretty Woman, but this regal hotel been the celebrity and business constituency's second home since it opened in 1928. It seems everyone knows that grand-hotel ambience, superlative service, and a can-do attitude come with check-in at the Regent. Warren Beatty actually lived here during his playboy years. Larry King has moved in on more than one occasion after separating from the wife du jour. Middle Eastern royalty take over several floors at a time. The classy four-star property is remarkably fit for a septuagenarian building, and that's due to a combination of
ongoing restoration and renovation. The lobby, with its raised ceiling and beautiful Aubusson tapestries, sparkles with its original grandeur. Each of the two wings—the original Wilshire and the Beverly, which was built in 1971—emphasizes its own style, from the Wilshire's traditional elegance to the Beverly's contemporary flair. Elegant guest rooms are generally
spacious, with ovation-worthy bathrooms. When guests aren't lounging by the small pool, exercising in the gym, or pampering themselves in the salon and spa, they tend to mingle at the bar, which specializes in classic cocktails, or relax over a fine dinner in the Dining Room, where Beverly Hills native J. P. Amateau serves his California/Provencal-style cooking
(see review). After dinner on the weekends, a jazz trio plays and tables are cleared to create a dance floor. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; no checks; www.rih.com; between Rodeo Dr and El Camino Rd.

Renaissance Beverly Hills Hotel / 2.5*

1224 S BEVERWIL DR, LOS ANGELES; 310/277-2800 OR 800/HOTELS-I

The bland high-rise may appear charmless from the outside, but until 1998 it was owned and operated by San Francisco's creative hoteliers the Kimpton Group, and their colorful and whimsical influence still pervades every nook and cranny. The sumptuous lobby—where complimentary morning coffee and afternoon wine are served daily—is awash in bold
stripes and fanciful colors, original artworks, and topiaries, and features a blazing fireplace. Playful design extends to the rooms, where stripes, florals, oversized furnishings, hand-painted accoutrements, fax machines, which, unfortunately, overlooks either the parking lot and the hills to the north or the flats to the south. The small pool surrounded by trellised
arbors is a wonderful place to relax after a busy day, while the limited fitness center allows guests to work off extra energy. Tiara at the Renaissance, with its warm woods, colorful glass fixtures, and lively bar, is an appealing spot for drinks or a leisurely meal. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, the restaurant serves inspired California/continental cuisine, including salads, sandwiches, pastas, and such ubiquitous main courses as sea bass, grilled New York steak, and seared ahi. $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; checks OK; www.renaissancehotels.com; at Rodeo Dr and Pico Blvd.

Ritz-Carlton Marina Del Rey / 3*

4375 ADMIRALTY WAY, MARINA DEL REY; 3 10/823-1 700 OR 800/24 1-3333

Set on more than 5Vi waterfront acres, this Ritz has a nautical theme in its decor and a more casual atmosphere than its California counterparts, although it's still notably formal by Southern California standards. The building was designed to accentuate the pleasant views of the calm Pacific and bobbing boats, which means that whether you're sitting in the lux-
uriously appointed and spacious lobby or the formal restaurant, you'll see firsthand why this area is known simply as "the Marina." Each of the 14-story property's 306 guest rooms has a terrace with French doors, a., marble bathroom, tasteful traditional Ritz decor, and the kinds of amenities one expects from a first-class hotel. One natural amenity is especially
., enticing: even when Los Angeles is sweltering, Marina del Rey is almost always substantially cooler. But guests can plunge into the large pool when the mercury rises, or hit the Jacuzzi when it falls. There are also plenty of options for the sports-inclined, from a workout room to tennis courts and rental bicycles. For those who prefer stretching their legs, the Marina is great for walking and sightseeing. The Dining Room serves elegant, French-inspired cuisine in a lovely, formal room. A less dressy and expensive alternative is the Terrace Restaurant, with both indoor and outdoor dining overlooking the pool and marina. The hotel's concierge can help book reservations at popular spots like neighboring Cafe Del
Rey (see review). $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; checks OK; www.ritzcarlton.com/marinadelrey; between Ball Way and Via Marina.

Shutters on the Beach / 3*

I PICO BLVD, SANTA MONICA; 310-458-0030 OR 800/334-9000

Cape Cod meets Santa Monica at this elegant, exquisite boutique hotel situated right on the beach. Though the views are definitely Southern California at their finest, everything else here feels East Coast. Artworks by Lichtenstein and Hockney hang in the lobby (where two fireplaces warm the seating areas), and guest rooms are plush yet not cluttered, with
unusually comfortable beds and tasteful decor. Many feature whirlpooll- tubs which, when the shutters between bedroom and bathroom are open, look out toward the ocean. This thoughtful hotel even provides a candle fy for romantic baths a deux. About the only shortcoming at this property is a cramped driveway, but if that's the biggest complaint about a place, they're doing all right. In the restaurant. One Pico, relatively new chef Desi Szonntagh serves New American cuisine amidst blissful beach views, a gentle fire in the oversized limestone fireplace, and flickering candles on each table (see full review). Petals Cafe serves California continental cuisine in a more casual setting. $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC,
V; checks OK; sotb@earthlink.net; www.shuttersonthebeach.com; on the beach at Ocean Ave.

The Standard / **

8300 SUNSET BLVD, WEST HOLLYWOOD; 323/650-9090

This too-cool-for-words hotel is the Sunset Strip's latest entrant in the trendiness sweep-stakes. The former retirement home is the latest endeavor for hotelier Andre Balazs of Chateau Marmont and New York's Hotel Mercer. To attract the young and perenially hip clientele, the building does its best to stand out, with its all-white exterior, frosted
glass, and row of balconies, each lit by a single light bulb. The hotel's interior design definitely steals a trick or two from the neighboring Mondrian. However, the Standard puts a fresh, younger spin on things, with vibrantly colored carpeting and well-lit public spaces mixing with the subtle pastel walls and minimalist furnishings. Each evening the lobby comes to life with a DJ spinning groovin' tunes, so you can boogie down while you check in. "Classic-modern" guest rooms look as though they could have been decorated by Marcia Brady, with platform beds, beanbag chairs, and (a more contemporary touch) cordless phones. If you don't mind staying on the ground level in a room facing the noisy action on Sunset Boulevard, the eight Budget Sunset rooms go for $95 a night. A barbershop, a 24-hour diner serving "international comfort food," and several happening bars give this lively hotel a clublike feeling, making it a fun stop on the young-set-on-Sunset-Strip jaunt. $$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; at Sweetzer Ave.

Summit Hotel Rodeo Drive / 2*

360 N RODEO DR, BEVERLY HILLS; 310/273-0300 OR 800/468-3541

When your trip to L.A. calls for shopping—and we mean big-time shopping—make a reservation at this 86-room boutique hotel, located on Rodeo Drive near such exclusive stores as Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co., Gucci, and Van Cleef & Arpels. While the its location on the famed boutique-lined thoroughfare is ideal for Gold Card-wielding shoppers, those
who want to savor the California sun will have to take the hotel's complimentary shuttle to its property, Summit Hotel Bel-Air, in Bel-Air to swim, play tennis, or get pampered in the spa. (There is, however, a sun deck on the Summit's second floor, if you don't mind sun-worshipping without a pool.) Guest rooms, decorated with a European flair, feature
small sitting areas; bathrooms are unimpressive. Fresh fruit and tea are sent to arriving guests in their room—a classy welcoming touch that reminds you of the advantages of smaller hotels. The ground-floor restaurant. Cafe Rodeo, serves continental breakfast to hotel guests, and
cold sandwiches, salads, and drinks for lunch and dinner, with desserts and coffee in the evenings. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; checks OK; north of Wilshire Blvd.

Sunset Marquis Hotel & Villas / 3*

1200 N ALTA LOMA RD, WEST HOLLYWOOD; 310/657-1333 OR 800/858-9758

It's easy to drive right past this quiet, secluded hotel, which is why the Sunset Marquis attracts a host of music and film celebrities looking for solitude during their stay in the heart of La-La Land. Once a part of the Lionel Barrymore estate, the expansive compound is nestled among 3 acres of private gardens, with 102 stylishly decorated one- and two-bed- room suites, some with private patios and all with CD players and VCRs. The 12 Mediterranean-style villas—each with its own butler—are exclu- sive (and expensive) enough to attract the likes of Phil Collins, Julio Iglesias, Aerosmith's Steven Tyier, and members of the Rolling Stones, who, when feeling social, might choose to strut their celebrity stuff at the see- and-be-seen pool and the oh-so-hip Whiskey Bar or might prefer to lurk low profile at the second, more secluded pool. The hotel also boasts the ultimate rock-'n'-roller amenity: an on-site recording studio. On a sunny California day, dining is available poolside at the Patio Restaurant or inside in the elegant and petite dining area, The Room. Both serve California cuisine with Pacific Rim overtones, including such appetizers as blue cheese-stuffed prawns, spring rolls, vegetarian pizzas, and entrees like duck salad, grilled salmon, and beef short ribs. $$$$; AE, DIS, MC, V; checks OK; www.srshotels.com/namerica/sunset.html; south of Sunset Blvd.

Venice Beach House / 2*

15 30TH AVE, VENICE; 310/823-1966

Built in 1911, this Craftsman-style B&B was once the summer home of the families of Venice Beach founder Abbott Kinney and Daily News founder Warren Wilson. Today, guests at the all-nonsmoking, antique filled inn can look at historic photos of its former residents while enjoying the comfy surroundings of this peaceful retreat, which stands just a stone's throw from the sand and the wacky goings-on of Venice Beach. The cozy living room, with several sitting areas, a brick fireplace, and bookshelves crammed with classics, gives way to a staircase leading to the second-floor accommodations. The inn's nine rooms (four of which
share bathrooms) boast beautiful period antiques, rustic wood detailing, and wool-upholstered walls. Surrounded by a wall of shrubs and trees, the slightly bohemian inn doesn't provide views of the Pacific, but the enticing gardens and veranda do beckon you to curl up with a good book and enjoy the fresh ocean air. Continental breakfasts include gourmet
coffees and teas and homemade breads. $$; AE, MC, V; checks OK; northwest of the Washington Blvd and Pacific Ave intersection.

W Los Angeles / 3*

930 HILGARD AVE, WESTWOOD; 310/208-8765

At press time this hotel, which was known as the Westwood Marquis for many years, was undergoing a transformation and change of ownership. It is scheduled to reopen at the end of 1999 as W Los Angeles, part of a nationwide chain of similar properties owned by Starwood Hotels &: Resorts. As the Westwood Marquis, the property has long been a fine Westside hotel, rating four stars and four diamonds, with 257 suites, a fine restaurant, well-landscaped grounds, and a pool. Under the new name, it remains an all-suite hotel aimed at business clientele. $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; checks OK; at Sunset Blvd.

Westin Bonaventure / 1*

404 S FIGUEROA ST, LOS ANGELES; 213/624-1000

With its five cylindrical black-glass towers and dozens of feature-film appearances, the Westin Bonaventure is one of the city's most recognizable hotels. With 1,295 rooms, it's also one of the city's largest. In this virtual mini-city, crowds amble through the massive lobby, shops, and restaurants, or hitch a ride on the elevators, which glide up and down the hotel's exterior, to get to any of the 35 floors. Standard guest rooms are on the small side, owing in part to the limits imposed by the shape of the hotel, but have floor-to-ceiling windows and streamlined modern decor. Tower Suites, which are clustered in one tower, are twice the size of standard rooms and a far better way to go when staying here. Another must- do is the Bonaventure Club, an Asian-style spa with full massage and beauty services in a clubby setting. A recent renovation added, among other things, lively fountains and topiaries in the convention center of a lobby. There's a happy hour in the lobby-level Flower Street Bar, but the place to go for drinks is the Bonaventure's revolving Bonavista Lounge on the 34th floor, which makes one complete revolution per hour. One floor higher takes guests to Top of Five, the hotel's main restaurant, which has tremendous views to complement the continental cuisine. $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; no checks; laboTi@westin.com; www.
westinbonaventu.rehotel.com; between 4th and 5th Sts.

Wyndham Bel Age / 1*

I 020 N SAN VICENTE BLVD, WEST HOLLYWOOD; 3 I 0/854-1111 OR 800/WYNDHAM

Once part of the empire of the Ashkenazy brothers, Los Angeles' art- collecting hoteliers, the Bel Age is now under Wyndham management. The legacy of the Ashkenazys is found in the art that fills the hotel, from the dramatic sculptures in the lobby to the prints and paintings that decorate the halls and guest rooms. (The latter are large and comfortable, though sometimes more reminiscent of apartments than of a luxury hotel.)The location is ideal: just off the Sunset Strip in West Hollywood, central and convenient to most parts of town. Local music hot spots, from Johnny Depp's Viper Room to the Roxy and the Whiskey, are a short walk away. The Bel Age has two restaurants: the opulent. Old World Diaghilev, with its Franco-Russian cuisine, house-flavored vodkas, and live music; and the Brasserie, with a Californian-Tuscan menu, great live jazz several nights a week, and wide-open views of the city lights below. There's a fitness center and a rooftop pool with its own fabulous panoramic views as well. $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; checks OK; www.wyndham.com; between Sunset and Santa Monica Blvds.

Wyndham Checkers Hotel / 2.5*

S35 S GRAND AVE, LOS ANGELES; 213/624-0000 OR 800/WYNDHAM

After a lengthy and award-winning restoration. Checkers was born in 1989 on the site of the 1926 Mayflower Hotel. Today, Checkers still feels like a lovely boutique hotel that's rarely noisy or crowded, though it is as conveniently located as its chain-hotel neighbors. And, perhaps due to its size, it's more intimate and personal than most downtown hotels, with a
very high level of service. Its 188 rooms are decorated tastefully with a restrained palette of beige, taupe, and cream. All of the rooms (some of which are on the small side) share a sense of comfort and understated opulence. There's a small fitness center, and a truly lovely pool and Jacuzzi on the roof; at night, it's one of the loveliest places in all of down- town Los Angeles, with tremendous views of the surrounding sky- scrapers. The elegant dining room no longer receives raves quite as glorious as those it garnered when renowned chef Thomas Keller put the hotel on the culinary map before departing to launch Napa Valley's French Laundry. But there have been a string of talented chefs since, including the latest, Tony Hodges. The adjacent bar, with its collection of cognacs. Scotches, and ports, is equally appealing, and it's a popular after-work spot for downtown business people. $$$$; AE, DC, DIS, JCB, MC, V; checks OK; checkersla@aol.com; www.wyndham.com; between 5th and 6th Sts.

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