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TRAVEL GUIDE

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RESTAURANTS

The Bottle Inn / 2.5*

26 22ND ST. HERMOSA BEACH; 310/376-9595

A local favorite, the Bottle Inn consistently garners awards for Best Italian Food, Most Romantic, and especially Best Wine List, and owner Silvio Petoletti has been honored with Wine Spectator commendations for several years running. The restaurant is refreshingly cozy and quiet, located several blocks from the loud, bright, center of town. Inside, its vaguely European decor has remained unchanged since the Bottle Inn opened in 1974, and everything here evokes fancy restaurants from that decade. Surprisingly, it still works—much thanks to the expert kitchen and exceptional wine list, a fat notebook of 250 selections ranging from
affordable bottles from the best California vintners to a full page of "Opus One" vintages and a library of the finest Italian Chiantis. True wine aficionados call ahead to reserve the single table in the 65-degree wine cellar, then dine in solitude surrounded by great wines. The servers are knowledgeable, accommodating, and well versed in a classic menu that stars veal piccata, chicken cacciatore, osso buco, fettuccine Bolognese, rich minestrone soup, and seafood risotto. Practiced to the point of near perfection, the food here is wonderful, with attention paid to making even the accompanying vegetables so delicious there's rarely a
morsel left. For dessert, the housemade cannoli is a rare treat: impeccably flavored thick mascarpone freshly piped into a crisp shell and garnished with chocolate chips and chocolate shavings. Despite being fancy by South Bay standards (no beach flip-flops, no cut-off jeans), the Bottle Inn is comfy and casual. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner
every day; beer and wine; reservations recommended; between Hermosa Ave and the Strand.

Club Sushi / 1.5*

1200 HERMOSA AVE, HERMOSA BEACH; 310/372-5939

This place is to sushi what rock 'n' roll is to the symphony—there's not a kimono in sight, and the sushi chefs are more likely to give you a high five than a deferential bow. Situated at the ground-zero intersection of the raucous Hermosa scene, Club Sushi is high-tech, youth-oriented, loud, and beachy—it even has a half-price sushi happy hour daily (5 to 7pm). Crowds pack into an industrial-style space filled with small tables, shoulder-to-shoulder sushi bar-stools, and a dozen TV screens showing sportscasts muffled by the sounds of jazz, rock, and calypso music (live five nights a week). But Club Sushi is more than a hangout. It boasts a line of sushi chefs whose flashing hands churn out a mind-boggling amount of great sushi, from the standard varieties to special house creations with names like volcano roll, shrimp dynamite, garlic yellowtail sashimi, and a terrific spicy tuna/asparagus tempura roll. An added draw is the regular menu, which runs a surprising gamut from teriyaki chicken and traditional Japanese dishes to pizzas, pastas, burgers, and American favorites like steak Diane. Thanks to the creativity of "Chef Bruno," whose experience includes stints as personal chef for Dan Ackroyd and David Geffen, the restaurant holds its own among local foodies. Just
don't be surprised to see bikini-clad diners at the next table. $-$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; lunch, dinner every day; reservations not accepted for fewer than 6; at the corner of Pier Ave.