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ACCESS AND INFORMATION
Traveling to and from LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is a snap when you call one of the major SHUTTLE SERVICES, such as Super Shuttle (323/775-6600) or Prime Time (800/733-8267). Don't be surprised when the shuttle companies insist on picking you up two or three hours before your departure time, because traffic will undoubtedly be sluggish at best, and LAX is often mobbed. TAXIS are in abundance and cost a flat rate of $26.50 from the airport to downtown.

PARKING in Los Angeles is sometimes problematic, but not as challenging as in New York or San Francisco. Since this town is committed to car culture, valet parking is available practically everywhere, and it's relatively inexpensive at around $3.50 a pop. Most of the city's meters have one- or two-hour time limits, and the meter maids are zealous. Mean-
while, in many parts of the city—Santa Monica and certain sections of West Hollywood, for example—parking is by residential permit only or restricted in one way or another (especially during rush hours). Read every sign carefully and stay within the guidelines; tickets and towing are such a part of life here that they're practically a rite of passage for new arrivals.
The major hotels and most of the shopping malls have taxi stands, but cabs don't cruise in Los Angeles the way they do in Manhattan, so it's best to phone for one in advance.

The MTA (METROPOLITAN TRANSPORTATION AUTHORITY, 800/
266-6883) runs the buses. There aren't enough of them, and they're usually behind schedule, so incorporate extra time into your plans to allow for that. The MTA has three lines: Red operates within the city; Blue heads north and south from downtown Los Angeles to "north" Long Beach; and Green travels east to west along the outer areas of Norwalk and the South Bay. MTA also runs the new MetroRail—what there is of it, and that doesn't go much of anywhere yet in metropolitan L.A.
AMTRAK (800/USA-RAIL) trains arrive and depart from downtown's exquisite Spanish Revival-style UNION STATION (800 N Alameda; 213/624-0171), and GREYHOUND (800/731-2222) can be caught down town at 1716 E 7th St; 213/262-1514.

Visitors to Los Angeles certainly appreciate that when making vacation plans they usually don't need to factor in the WEATHER. Angelenos appreciate it, too. That's why they grumble so much when the mercury dips a bit in the winter months, or when the hot SANTA ANA WINDS intermittently blow from August through October. The RAINY SEASON
occurs from January to March, but in non-El Nino years it doesn't rain very much. Compared to what's happening in the rest of the country during those months, the City of Angels is still a paradise, and winter is when Angelenos appreciate their city most. There is, however, a phe-
nomenon in Los Angeles called JUNE GLOOM: Because the marine layerof air is heavier during this month, the sun often doesn't appear before noon. Still, the AVERAGE TEMPERATURE during the summer is about 80 degrees, and about 70 degrees in the winter. If you're traveling to L.A., bring a jacket or a sweater no matter what the season, because most evenings are cool.

The Los Angeles freeway system isn't the only thing clogged by traffic these days. With fax machines and Internet connections, the phone system is under strain too. To remedy this, the phone companies have assigned more AREA CODES and reorganized existing ones. Downtown's prefix remains 213, while everything west of it to Beverly Hills is now classified as 323. Beverly Hills to the beach towns of Marina del Rey and up to Malibu remain 310, although as of April 1999 an additional code—424—was added and is now being assigned to new accounts.
Calling these additional area codes doesn't necessarily mean you're placing a toll call, but it's best to check with the operator to make sure.

The people at the downtown office of the LOS ANGELES CONVEN TION AND VISITOR INFORMATION BUREAU (685 S Figueroa Street, between Wilshire Boulevard and Seventh Street; 213/624-7300; www.
lacb.com) are friendly and anxious to be of assistance. Their hours are 8:30am to 5pm, Monday through Saturday. There's a HOLLYWOOD OFFICE too, with the same hours and phone number (6541 Hollywood Boulevard near Cahuenga Boulevard; 213/236-2331). For a full schedule of sports or arts and culture events, call the VISITOR HOTLINE, 213/689-
8822. You can hear the recorded information in Japanese, French, German, or Spanish. By calling 800/CATCH-LA you can arrange for a packet of information to be mailed to you. The WEST HOLLYWOOD CONVENTION CENTER AND VISITORS BUREAU is located in the Pacific Design Center (8687 Melrose Avenue, Suite M-25; 310/289-2525) and is open 8:30am to 5:30pm Monday through Friday. The BEVERLY HILLS CHAMBER OF COMMERCE AND VISITORS BUREAU (239 S Beverly Drive; 310/248 1000) is open weekdays 8:30am to 5pm. The SANTA MONICA VISITORS CENTER (1400 Ocean Avenue; 310/393-7593; www.santamonica.com) is open from 10am to 4pm in the winter, 10am to 5pm during the summer.
They're closed on major holidays and during inclement weather.

LOS ANGELES AREA THREE-DAY TOUR
DAY ONE; A day in the heart of old Hollywood, Indulge in flannel cakes and Golden
Era atmosphere at Musso & Frank's Grill, then spend the morning gazing at the stars
: fin the Hollywood Walk of Fame, and check out the stars' prints in the courtyard of
Mann's Chinese Theatre. Visit the nearby Hollywood Entertainment Museum
: and Hollywood History Museum. Some of these experiences are cheesy, but
; they're something you gotta do once in your life. Lunch at Oft Vine, then explore the
.1 wonders of Griffith Park in time to watch the sun set beyond the city from the Grif-
fith Park Observatory parking lot. Stop for an aperitif at Yamashiro, then head down
; the hill to dine at Hollywood's renowned Patina, where you're likely to see some of
^Hollywood's living legends as you indulge in celebrity chef Joachim Splichal's provoca-
; tive fare. Catch a late flick at Laemmle's Sunset S. Finish off the evening with a drink
at the sexy SkyBar.
DAY TWO; A chic LA. day. Have breakfast on the bougainvillea-draped patio at the
; Hotel Bel-Air, then headto Beverly Hills for a morning of browsingthe Rodeo Drive
shops. After reinvigorating yourself with lunch at Spago, jump in the car and follow
curvy Mulholland Drive above the hills and stunning homes, winding your way to an
afternoon at the Getty Museum at the Getty Center (provided you've secured a
parking reservation). Return in time for dinner at celebrity-filled Mr. Chow, and wind
up the evening with a nightcap at the Beverly Hills Hotel's Polo Lounge.
DAY THREE: Beach Life. If you aren't a registered guest, at least eat breakfast at the
loveiy Shutters on the Beach. From here walk to the Santa Monica Pier and take
a ride on the antique carousel, then make a shopping stop at touristy Third Street
Promenade. Rent in-line skates or a bicycle and follow the beachfront path south
to Venice Beach (about a hatf-mile jaunt along the 26-mile path). Return to your car
and drive north on the Pacific Coast Highway for an afternoon at Zuma Beach in
Malibu. Have a picnic lunch on the beach, then spend some time soaking up the sun.
End your coastal day with dinner at Matibu's Granita.

The magic of Los Angeles lies not in any one particular site or attraction, but rather in just being here, absorbing its diverse and overwhelming atmosphere. Celluloid City's distinct eighborhoods and glorious beaches are clipped together like a film that showcases individual vignettes; drive
(and you must drive) ten minutes in any direction and the venue changes dramatically and immediately, which means you can submerge yourself in real-life versiouns of Baywatch, Scenes from the Class Struggle in Beverly Hills, Melrose Place, or Swingers—with less than a gallon of gas.

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