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Temecula
Located where Riverside County meets San Diego County, the fertile Temecula
Valley has attracted settlers for at least a thousand years, from Luiseno
Indians to today's winemakers and suburbanites. Rainbow Gap, a pass in
the coastal mountains to the west, lets a cooling breeze from the Pacific
Ocean sneak in each afternoon, blowing away smog and helping offset hot
temperatures. These maritime breezes often bring coastal fog to the edge
of the Valley—hence its name, a Luiseno word meaning "sun shining
through fine mist." The climate is ideal for growing grapes, and
commercial growers began planting grapes in earnest here in the 1960s.
Unfortunately, the fine weather has also attracted developers who seem
determined to crust the land with housing subdivisions and chain stores.
Today you drive east on Rancho California Road for about 4 miles through
new communities before you reach the pleasant, open wine-
growing countryside. A brief drive west from the freeway on the same road
brings you to the rapidly growing town's Front Street. Here Old West-style
false store fronts and a few historic buildings provide a notion of the
good old days. OLD TOWN TEMECULA was originally a stop along the Butterfield
Overland Stage route in the 1850s. Shop here for ANTIQUES, indulge in
a messy burger at any number of greasy spoons, or catch a tour in Otto
Baron's Model T Ford (drop by 41915 4th Street, call 909/694-8746, or
page 909/506-8249). Old Town features many well-preserved ORIGINAL BUILDINGS,
like the Temecula Mercantile, built from local bricks in 1891, or the
1882 Welty Hotel on Main Street. But perhaps more interesting are the
unrestored private homes lining side streets. Copies of Bob and Bea Taylor's
"Old Town Walking Tour Map" can be found at most local businesses.
If you prefer to leave the planning to someone else, jump aboard one of
Destination Temecula's (909/695-1232 or 800/584-8162; www.destem.com)
daily tours of Old Town and the wine country. For a more athletic approach,
Gravity Activated Sports (800/985-4427; www.gasports.com)
offers a TEMECULA WINE COUNTRY BICYCLE TOUR. Or take their Palomar Plunge,
a 16-mile descent on bicycles (you'll need to turn the pedals only a few
times) over a 5,000-foot drop in elevation from the top of nearby pine-covered
Palomar Mountain. For an airborne adventure, take in the Temecula sunrise
from a HOT-AIR BALLOON flown by A Grape
Escape Balloon Adventure (800/965-2122; www.agrapeescape.com). For visitors'
guides and maps, stop by TEMECULA VALLEY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (27450 Ynez
Road, Suite 104, in Town Center Plaza; 909/676-5090; www.temecula.org).
TEMECULA WINERIES
Temecula boasts 15 wineries, some of them competitive with the
best in California. Most grow their own grapes, all have tasting
rooms open to the public. Take Rancho California Road east from
Interstate 15 for only 4 mites to where the strip malls and housing
sprawl abruptly give way to rolling hills dressed in mustard flowers,
vineyards, and citrus orchards. Most of the wineries are clustered
along the next few miles, with signs directing where to turn off,
while Filsinger and Keyways hang back on side roads that branch
off farther east on Rancho California Road. Not surprisingly,
Temecula's three oldest wineries (Callaway, Cilurzo, and Mount
Palomar) are its standouts, but a few others are gaining notoriety.
Expect crowds on weekends, especially Saturdays.
BAILY VINEYARD & WINERY: Phil and Carol Baily opened their
winery in 1986. They
are best known fortheir white wines, especially the gold medal
Rieslings. Tastings daily 10am
to 5pm. Located at 33833 Rancho California Road; 909/676-9463;
www.baily.com.
CALLWAY VINEYARD & WINERY: Temecula's largest, oldest, and
best-known winery produces a very good chardonnay. Public tours
daily. The Wine Terrace Cafe affords sweep-ing views from its
outdoor patio, serving lunch Thursday through Sunday and dinner
on Fridays and Saturdays. Tastings daily 10am to 5pm. Located
at 32720 Rancho California Road; 909/676-4001 or 800/472-2377;
www.callawaywine.com.
CILURZO VINYARD & WINERY: Vincenzo Cilurzo planted Temecula's
first commercial vineyarel in 1968 when he moved to the valley
with his wife, Audrey. Their estate grown petite sirah has been
a consistent award-winner and their menots are also excellent.
Don't miss this friendly, family-run winery with its tame peacocks
and hand-painted signs.
Tastings daily 10am to 5pm. Located at 41220 Calle Contento; 909/676-5250.
CLOS DU MURIEL VINEYARDS & WINERY; Ctos du Muriel buys most
of its grapes elsewhere and sells its wine only by order or on
the premises. Tastings daily 10am to 5pm. Located at 33410 Rancho
California Road; 909/676-5400 or 877/676- 5400; www.closdumurietwinery.com.
PUSINGER VINEYARDS & WINERY: This family-owned winery makes
a Temecula champagne, and it's one of the few wineries in California
to grow and produce gewurztraminer. The tasting room is open on
Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays only.
Located at 30905 De Portola Road; 909/302-6363.
HART WINERY: Truly a collector's find is tiny Hart Winery, which
frequently outclasses many of California's biggest players at
major wine competitions. Former school teacher Joe Hart specializes
in dry, full-bodied reds and premium Mediterranean varietals.
The tasting room in this cute little barnlike structure is open
daily 10am to 5pm.
Located at 41300 Avenida Biona; 909/676-6300 or 877/638-8788.
KEYWAYS VINEYARD: Carl Key operates a one-man operation at a handsome
Mediter-ranean-style building on 28 beautiful, vine-laden acres.
Key prides himself on his red zinfandel, which can be tasted along
with other varietals on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, or by
appointment. Located at 37338 De Portola Road; 909/302-7888.
MAURICE CARRIE WINERY; Maurice and Budd Van Roekel opened this
giant, neo-Victorian California ranch manor and antique barn in
1986. The visitor-oriented establishment sells souvenirs and offers
free tasting of its wines, which include some of the sweeter varietals
and are available daily 10am to 5pm. Located at 34225 Rancho California
Road; 909/676-1711 or 800/716-1711
MOUNT PALOMAR WINERY: Wfth 'its hilltop views, sunny orchards,
soft grass, and shaded tables, Mount Palomar provides the ideal
spot for a picnic. One of the valley's three original operations,
it made its mark with nesting, exceptional dessert wines, and
some lesser-known Italian varietals such as cortese and sangiovese.
listings daily 10am to 5pm. Located at 33820 Rancho California
Road; 909/676-5047 or 800/854-5177; www.mountpalomar.com.
SANTA MARGARITA WINERY: Temecula's smallest winery specializes
in cabemet sauvignon, which they always age five years before
release. Sitting on a quiet ridge well off the highway, the tasting
room is open on weekends only or by appointment. Located at 33490
Madera de la Playa; 909/676-4431.
STUART CELLARS: Opened in 1998, this is Temecuta's newest winery.
Marshall Stuart, who studied viticulture and enology at UC Davis,
already :makes a fine vintage port. The tasting room is open dailyfrom
lOamtoSprt; Located at 33515 Rancho California Road; 909/676-6414
or 888/260-0870; www.stuartcellars.com
TEMECULA CREST WINERY: This hilltop winery, featuring a strikingly
beautiful Old West structure of stained redwood, is noted for
its estate-grown whites; riesling and sauvignon blanc are big
hits and they can be sampled in the tasting room, which is open
Monday through Friday from noon to 5pm, Saturday and Sunday I
Oam to 5pm. Located at 40620 Calle Contento; 909/676-8231.
THORNTON WINERY: Although this faux chateau feels more like a
grandly financed marketing concept than a winery, their sparkling
wines, formerly bottled under the Culbertson label, have won many
awards. Try them at the tasting room, open daily from 11 am to
4:30pm. Located at 32575 Rancho California Road; 909/699-0099
or 800/966- 0099; www.thornton.com.
VAN ROEKEL VINEYARDS & WINERY: Budd and Maurice Van Roekel,
who operate the Maurice Carrie Winery next door, purchased this
facility with the intention of producing more carefully developed
premium wines. They feature award-winning fume blancs and syrahs,
as well as gewurztraminer, mourvedre, and others, listings daily
10am to 5pm. Located at 34567 Rancho California Road; 909/699-6961.
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