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RESTAURANTS
Duane's Prime Steaks & Seafood / 2*
3649 MISSION INN AVE, RIVERSIDE; 909/341-6767
Steps from the Mission Inn's courtyard restaurant (see review, below),
its other restaurant, Duane's, is a completely indoor experience. Big
chairs, big tables, big paintings, and big portions are the theme here.
Arched windows and Rapunzel balconies flank the room, and a wonderful
Old West painting of a cavalry skirmish dominates the end wall (look closely,
and read the plaque, for the artwork tells a fascinating tale). A classic
steak-and-prime-rib eatery, Duane's has become the best place in town
to come for a no-holds-barred, let's-start-with-a-Scotch-on-the-rocks
kind of meal. Duane's lives on the excellent reputation of its beef, and
it doesn't disappoint. Steaks are flash-cooked, leaving the insides tender,
rare, and juicy. The wine list is extensive. Although the two kitchen
lines are separate, executive chef Gary Palm's two in-hotel restaurants
share similar menu themes and have become the standard bearers for Riverside
fine dining, with a harmonious marriage of historic decor and attentive
cooking. $$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner every
day; full bar; reservations recommended; missioninn.com; exit mission
ave off Hwy 91 and go west.
Gay and Larry's / 2*
5556 MISSION BLVD. RIVERSIDE; 909/684-0645
Angelenos escaping to Palm Springs via Highway 60 first fell in love
with the Mexican food at Gay and Larry's over 55 years ago. The place
has; classic roadhouse feel, complete with dirt parking lot (except for
handi capped vehicles) and surrounding tire repair shops and run-down
squalid houses. Here the "combination plate" is a steaming,
heart-stopping heap of enchiladas, chiles rellenos, tacos, or burritos,
with refried beans and rice, all swimming in a pond of brick-red sauce
on an oven-heated pewter canoe. Oddly, Gay and Larry's charges for chips—but
they're brought with ceremony on a thick crockery plate in your waitress's
oven-mitted
paw. Draft beer, 40 ounces of it, costs only a five-spot. $; no credit
cards; local checks OK; lunch, dinner every day; beer only; reservations
not necessary; from Hwy 60, exit Rubidoux Blvd and go south to Mission
Blvd. then left.
Mission Inn Restaurant / 2*
3649 MISSION INN AVE, RIVERSIDE; 909/341-6767
Old-timers in Riverside still call this "the Spanish Dining Room,"
and they're a little ticked off at the Mission Inn's latest owner for
changing the name to something as generic as "Restaurant." But,
blessedly, every thing else remains the same. Step into the courtyard
and you enter a
Moroccan desert keep. Giant lanterns of cast concrete top—believe
it or not—flying buttresses above you. Tier upon tier of windows
rise on every side, most arched, many with the Inn's famed "rain
cross" bell-symbol motif in leaded glass. In the center, a massive
tile fountain guarded by
three Mayan-motif mutant-frog sculptures splashes happily, while the lighted
dome of a miniature Vatican seems to float in the gathering darkness at
dinnertime. Caesar salad is a perfectly tart and salty start to a hearty
meal of lamb shank, osso buco style (it arrives steaming in the night
air, with spears of asparagus propped about like green soldiers). A double
pork chop with excellent garlic mashed potatoes is almost too much to
eat. Prime rib or filet of beef are delicious and tender, while lighter
choices such as spinach fettuccine with grilled shrimp, Maui onions, and
thyme, or seared salmon with red-wine pasta or opal-basil pasta are equally
satisfying. Service is attentive. $$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; breakfast,
lunch, dinner every day; full bar; reservations recommended; www.missioninn.com;
exit Mission Ave off Hwy 91 and go west.
Table for Two / 2*
3600 CENTRAL AVE, SUITE I, RIVERSIDE; 909/683-3648
This small, sophisticated, and quite immaculate restaurant is located
in the kind of building you'd expect to find occupied by an insurance
office. Once inside, though, you're surprised by modern, arty decor and
the wonderful spicy smells of a Thai kitchen at its best. Dishes are presented
with an artful eye for color here, with sprays of thinly sliced vegetables
piled high like pick-up sticks. Big white bistro-style plates turn the
food into art, and bookshelves filled with wine bottles line the walls.
This brilliant feast for the eye is matched by equally vibrant flavors.
An unusual ground chicken and shrimp salad with grilled Japanese eggplant,
onion, and green onion is bathed in a light vinegar dressing. Salads are
reminiscent of flower arrangements. Entrees include stir-fry standards
like cashew chicken, but this version is made with a roasted curry paste.
Coconut shows up frequently, particularly in the soups and curries that
dominate the menu. The neighborhood crowd here includes families, young
couples, and retired professors from the nearby university—all loyal
devotees of Table for Two's artful creativity. $; MC, V; no checks; lunch,
dinner ever day; beer and wine; reservations not necessary; exit Central
Ave offHwy 91 and go west.
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