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RESTAURANTS
Joe Greensleeves / 2.5*
220 N ORANGE ST. REDLANDS; 909/792-6969
Gourmets in any city would love to have Joe Greensleeves just around
the corner, so finding it in Redlands makes it all the more special. Chef
Umberto Orlando fashions a changing menu that intrigues the culinary adventurer
who wants to try ostrich, bison, elk, boar, venison, or any of
several other farm-raised game dishes. At the same time, anyone who loves
osso buco, or pasta, or simply a good steak, will find plenty of options.
Orlando grills meats over an orangewood fire. Portions are extremely generous:
bison, for example, is a thick but tender cut smothered in sauteed mushrooms
and accompanied by a colorful medley of baby squash, spinach, and oven-baked
rosemary potatoes. Orlando's osso buco is served amidst a mountain of
saffron-scented risotto. Vegetarians haven't been forgotten—everything
here is cooked to order (and may take a while), so the chef is willing
to make some off-the-menu dishes on request. Few diners have room for
dessert, but the cart creaks to your table with tortes, cheesecake, and
other tempta-tions. Decor includes a full-size classic wooden sailboat
hull cut in half and attached to one brick wall of the narrow historic
building. Look closely at the ceiling near the fireplace: it's composed
of thousands of wine corks, for the wine list is another strong point
of the restaurant, and Joe Greensleeves has won numerous Wine Spectator
awards. The crowd is spirited and obviously enjoying themselves, making
this a "romantic" place in a celebratory rather than a muted,
wine-and-candles way. You'll clink glasses and enjoy the show not only
from watching the open kitchen but simply by being part of the happy buzz.
$$$; AE, MC, V; local checks only;
lunch Tues-Fri, dinner Tues-Sun; beer and wine; reservations recommended;
from 1-10 east, exit Orange St and go right, or from 1-10 west exit 6th
St and go south to Redlands Blvd, then right on Orange St.
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