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LODGINGS
Best Western Gardens Inn & Suites / 1*
71487 TWENTYNINE PALMS HWY, TWENTYNINE PALMS; 760/367-9141
OR 800/528-1234
Set against the boulder-strewn mountains of Joshua Tree National Park,
this fairly standard mo-tor inn is by far the nicest chain-affiliated
lodging near the park's eastern entrance. Its guests are everyone from
military individuals and families on business at the nearby base to national
park
visitors to many foreign tourists (especially from Germany). Its location
lends travelers a great sense of "being there" in a desert landscape,
even though it's plunked on the same long stretch of Highway 62 that's
scattered with an anonymous collection of mini-malls, gas marts, and other
encrustations doing their best to spoil a designated California State
Scenic Highway. Organized around a good-sized swimming pool (heated year-round),
the dusky-colored inn lines up 84 rooms in one- and two- story buildings.
Twelve suites have efficiency kitchens for whipping
together a simple meal after a day spent exploring Joshua Tree. The nicely
furnished king-bed suites (some with murals of desert scenes) also have
queen-size sofa beds, while one two-room suite and two minisuites include
hot tubs. Ask for a room with a view of the mountains to the
south, and do make a point of dropping into the outdoor Jacuzzi, which
is great for evening star-watching. The included continental breakfast
includes pastries, locally baked bread, and a full range of cereals, fruit,
juices, and coffee. $$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; no checks; at west end of town.
Roughley Manor Bed & Breakfast Inn / 2*
74744 JOE DAVIS RD, TWENTYNINE PALMS; 760/367-3238
In 1924 desert pioneers Elizabeth and Bill Campbell turned a once-primitive
campsite next to a hand-dug well into an elegant two-story, stone walled
mansion. Today, a rustling oasis of mature fan palms, rose gardens, and
trickling fountains surrounds the product of their years of toil. Located
near the northeast edge of what is now Joshua Tree National Park, Roughley
Manor has aged well (as stone is wont to do), and innkeepers Jan and Gary
Peters couldn't be a better fit to carry on the original owner's dream.
The two-story main house has a "great room" down-stairs a huge
living room almost entirely paneled and TWENTYN1NE PALMS trimmed with
hardwood wainscoting and moldings. The grandest accommodations are the
Campbell and Magnolia rooms upstairs, each with fireplace and four-poster
or canopy bed, and deep-set win-dows that look out into the treetops and
surrounding desert landscape. There are five rooms in the stone main house
and two in the stone "museum house," plus a wood-frame cottage
and a small farmhouse. All are air conditioned. Jan Peters's interior
designs are tasteful, classical New England, with a merciful lack of stuffed
bears and knickknacks. Her husband Gary seems never without a project,
and the place is immaculate right down to the raked sandy yard (no lawns)
with its comfortable, upholstered outdoor furniture set in the shade.
Guests get a hearty breakfast
of fresh fruit, toast, and twice-baked potatoes topped with eggs, bacon,
and cheese (among other menus). The Peterses also set out desserts, coffee,
and tea each evening. Evenings here are perfect for a soak in the hot
tub under a sky peppered with stars. $-$$; MC, V; checks OK;
themanor@cci-29palms.com; www.virtual29.com/themanor; off Hwy 111 off
of Utah Trail (yellow blinking light at east end of town).
Twentynine Palms Inn / 2*
73950 INN AVE, TWENTYNINE PALMS; 760/367-3505
Rustic, sparsely landscaped, with dirt roads between the bungalows, the
Inn captures the essece of an old-time California desert stay. This his-
toric cluster of cottages, which sprawls over 35 acres, has been operated
by the same family since 1928. It's the quintessential hideaway for
stressed-out film industry types, European travelers, lizard-skinned desert
oldsters, and just about everyone else. Built beside the Oasis of Mara,
a rare natural source of open water in the high desert, the Inn offers
bungalow rooms in the 1929 "old Adobe" section with sun patios
(great for nude sunbathing) and fireplaces. Wood-frame cottages Gold Park
and Faultline were moved here in 1928. Larger lodgings include several
houses and cabins; well-known local painter Irene Charlton occupied one,
La Querencia, for many years, and her artworks now decorate the walls.
Interiors are rustic yet comfortable, with swamp coolers (rather than
colder, but more humid, air conditioners) keeping them reasonably comfortable
in summer. Bird-watching, swimming, and tours of the Inn's large organic
vegetable garden are the major activities here. Many guests tour nearby
Joshua Tree National Park (no lodging is located closer to
the park), or just hunker down in the 100-plus heat if they visit in summer.
Adjacent to the pool, the restaurant serves the best meals in the area.
All seasonal vegetables come from the inn's year-round garden. The menu
favors a hearty continental approach to grilled steaks, seafood, and chicken,
and the bar blends up some of the best margaritas this side of Palm Springs.
$-$$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V (and all European cards); checks OK; info@29palmsinn.com;
www.29palmsinn.com; off National Park Dr, about a quarter mile to Inn
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