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Morongo Valley
The town, located near the western beginning of State Scenic Highway
62 north of Interstate 10, is hardly noticeable—desert residents
keep to
themselves in small houses off the highway. But BIG MORONGO CANYON
PRESERVE (11055 East Drive, off Highway 62; 760/363-7190) is worth
a look if you're a bird-watcher. You may see a vermilion flycatcher or
a
beautiful blue grosbeak, and a flash of red might well be a summer tan-
ager. Experts consider this one of the 10 best bird-watching spots in
all
of California, for 293 species have been seen here. Water seeps from the
fault-tortured mountains to create a lush marsh crossed and skirted
by trails, including a boardwalk that plunges through a veritable tunnel
of greenery.
Joshua Tree National Park
Joshua Tree first gained protection in 1936 as a national monument. The
region had remained fairly pristine, well protected by its remote location
and harsh climate. Miners and homesteaders had been nibbling at the
region's acreage for over 50 years without much impact on the natural
scenery. A few hardy souls settled amidst the jumbled rocks, able to sur-
vive by finding natural dams or building their own tiny reservoirs. Others
clustered, as Native Americans did before them, around the region's
handful of oases, especially OASES OF MARA at what is now the park's
northeastern entrance point. Fortunately for "JT" (as rock climbers
and
other frequent visitors now call it), the desert was too rugged, too dry,
too spiny, and too rocky to attract much interest beyond that shown by
adventuresome sightseers. Drawn to the beauty of its balding rocks, awk-
ward-looking trees, and fascinating mix of flora from both low desert
(the Colorado, below 3,000 feet) and the high desert (the Mojave), they
wandered here then for the same reasons that now draw visitors from
around the world.
Recently the park has seen increased visitor interest. JT gained the
added cachet of national park status in 1994 with the passage of the Desert
Protection Act, and the popularity of ROCK CLIMBING here has caused
its legions of winter visitors to soar to the point that it can be difficult
to
find a campsite during the cooler season, November through May.
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TWENTYNINE PALMS
The Protection Act brought more to Joshua Tree than a new name.
Wilderness acreage expanded to 630,000 acres, bringing the total park
acreage to 794,000, or about 1,237 square miles (about the same size as
Yosemite National Park). Despite its vastness, the park has a road system
so simple and limited (about 100 paved miles connecting three main
entry points) that you can drive it in a single day or less. Unfortunately,
virtually all park visitors are on or near these few roads, especially
in
spring (March and April), when the wildflowers bloom.
Don't get the idea that Joshua Tree is a queue of cars, however. Its
remote location and harsh weather extremes will always assure some
elbow room, even along Park Boulevard where it skirts Wonderland of
Rocks. Visitors must pay $10 per vehicle admission at one of three entry
points: West Entrance Station near the town of Joshua Tree, North
Entrance Station on Utah Trail near Twentynine Palms, and the Cotton-
wood Spring entry 22 miles east of Indio.
A one-day drive will take you past miles of interesting ROCK FOR-
MATIONS, many swarming with rock climbers. Hikers enjoy the BARKER
DAM TRAIL near HIDDEN VALLEY CAMPGROUND, an easy path through
boulders that leads to a rockbound pool built at the turn of the century.
The DESERT QUEEN RANCH (760/367-5555) offers ranger-led tours for
a small fee. Make plans to join one by inquiring at park entrance stations
or calling the above number. The Ranch is now a fascinating ghost
town-like ruin that showcases the incredible ingenuity and resourceful-
ness of Bill Keys as he raised his family here in the early 1900s.
CAMPING has become so popular at Joshua Tree, because of all the
winter rock climbing activity, that it can be difficult to get a site.
Be sure
to contact JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK (74485 National Park Drive,
Twentynine Palms, CA 92277 by mail, or phone 800/365-2267 or
760/367-5500) in advance for park information. Most camping in the
park is first come, first served, but you may reserve a spot at Indian
Cove,
Black Rock, and Cottonwood. There are no accommodations inside the
park, nor can you buy food, gasoline, or any other supplies.
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