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RESTAURANTS
Boccali's / 2*
3277 SANTA PAULA-OJAI RD, OJAI; 805/646-6116
You'll find this small wood-frame restaurant set among citrus groves,
in a nostalgic pastoral setting that hasn't changed for decades. Sit outdoors
at one of the picnic tables shaded by umbrellas and twisted oak trees,
or inside where the tables are covered with red-and-white-checked oilcloth.
Like an old-style roadhouse, Boccali's has a complete lack of pretension,
coupled with excellent homestyle Sicilian grub, including a lasagne that
could win a statewide taste test hands down. An equally delicious meatless
version is available, with spinach filling and marinara sauce. Their pizzas
run a close second, even though they can be topped with suspiciously trendy
ingredients like crab, whole garlic cloves, shrimp, and chicken.
Fresh lemonade, squeezed from fruit plucked off local trees, is the usual
drink of choice. Come hungry, and plan on sharing. $; no credit cards;
local checks only; lunch Wed-Sun, dinner every day; beer and wine; reservations
recommended; on Highway 150 at Reeves Rd.
L'Auberge / 2*
314 EL PASEO, OJAI; 805/646-2288
Often touted as the most romantic restaurant in Ojai, L'Auberge is a
swank holdover from the days when classic French cuisine was the epitome
of fancy dining. Housed in a 1910 mansion with fireplace and ornate chandeliers,
a short, pleasant watk from downtown, the restau- rant has a charming
terrace with a marvelous view of Ojai's "pink moment" at sunset.
The French-Belgian menu is unswervingly traditional, and L'Auberge is
known for its exceptional escar-gots and sweetbreads. Among the other
selections are scampi, frogs' legs, poached sole, tournedos of beef, and
duckling a 1'orange. The weekend brunch menu offers a selection of perfectly
prepared crepes. This kind of place has gone seriously out of style, so
if you love classic French you'd do well to take advantage of this still-excellent
grande dame. $$; AE, MC, V; no checks; dinner every day, brunch Sat-Sun;
full bar; reservations recommended; corner of Rincon St.
The Ranch House / 3*
SOUTH LOMITA AVE, OjAI; 805/646-2360
If you're going to have only one meal in Ojai, have it here. The name
may suggest, steaks 'n' spuds, but the reality of this Ojai Valley gem
couldn't be more different. Originally conceived in 1949 by Alan and Helen
Hooker-two Krishnamurti followers drawn to Ojai's natural beauty the restaurant
began life as a vegetarian boarding house. The Hookers were hippies before
hippie was hip, and it wasn't long before they turned their "ranch
house" into a full-fledged restaurant, adding meat dishes and exceptional
wines to a menu that continues to emphasize the freshest vegetables, fruits,
and herbs in what is now ubiquitously known as California cuisine. Freshly
snipped sprigs from the lush herb garden will aromatically transform your
simple meat, fish, or game dish into a work of art, and diners are encouraged
to stroll through this splendid kitchen garden during their visit. From
an appetizer of Cognac-laced liver pate served with its own chewy rye
bread to leave-room-for desserts like fresh
raspberries with sweet Chambord cream, the ingredients always shine through.
With guests driving in from as far as Los Angeles just for a Ranch House
meal, everything has to be perfect, and this peaceful and friendly retreat
never disappoints. Equally impressive are the polished yet friendly service
and magical setting, with alfresco dining year-round on
a wooden porch facing the scenic valley, as well as in the romantic garden
amid twinkling lights and stone fountains. $$; AE, DC, DIS, MC, V; checks
OK; dinner Wed-Sun, brunch Sun; beer and wine; reservations, recommended;
www.TheRanchHouse.com; south of El Roblar Droff Hwy 33.
Suzanne's Cuisine / 2.5*
502 WEST OJAI AVE, 0)AI; 805/640-1961
Ojai's roster of exceptional restaurants includes this understated charmer
a few blocks from the center of town where every little detail bespeaks
a preoccupation with quality. Each ingredient is as fresh and natural
as it can be, and these recipes-a blending of California cuisine with
Italian recipes from chef-owner Suzanne Roll's family-show them off to
advan-
tage. Every meal begins with a basket of homebaked rolls served with butter
squares, each accented by a single pressed cilantro leaf. Vegetables are
al dente, and even the occasional cream sauce tastes light and healthy.
A highlight of the lunch menu is the Southwest salad: wild, brown, and
jasmine rice tossed with smoked turkey, feta cheese, veggies, and green
chiles. At dinner, pepper-and-sesame-crusted ahi is served either sauteed
or seared (your choice). Suzanne's covered outdoor patio should be your
first seating choice. Its marble bistro tables are shaded in summer by
lush greenery and warmed in winter by a fireplace and strategically placed
heat lamps. When it rains, a plastic cover unfurls to keep water out while
maintaining an airy garden feel. This is the kind of restaurant that makes
you long for three-hour lunches and decadently unhurried dinners; so sit
back, enjoy, and-by all means-don't skip dessert! $$; DC, DIS, MC, V;
local checks only; lunch, dinner Wed-Mon; full bar; reservations recommended;
east of Bristol Rd.
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