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HOME IMPROVEMENT

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INSTALLING TILE

Tile Wall Layout

What are the correct steps for laying out the wall tiles in my bathroom?
Begin on the back wall behind the tub. The object is to draw a pair of perpendicular reference lines, one level and the other plumb, that will show where you where to position the edges of the tiles.

Use a level to find the lowest point of the tub, and measure up an easy-to-remember number (about 2 feet worth) of whole tiles, including spaces for grout and a 1/8-inch space above the edge of the tub. Mark a level line through that point all the way around the tub enclosure.

Next use your level to mark another line, this time plumb, going from tub to ceiling. Measure out from the corner a convenient number of whole tiles, including grout lines, plus the width of the cut tile in the corner. Your layout drawing should show how large the cut tiles in the corner must be. Mark similar reference lines on each wall. After you've drawn the reference lines, double-check your layout and lines.

When you apply the thin-set, be careful not to cover your layout lines.

Leaky Sill Problem

I'm planning to tile the tub surround in my bathroom and to add a little shelf around the lip of the tub. What can I do to make sure that water doesn't seep through the grout and into the wall?
The best defense is to apply an additional waterproof membrane on top of the cement board in the wall for extra protection. Without this added layer of protection, the moisture barrier behind the cement board won't keep water from getting to the walls. The easiest membrane to apply is called a "trowelable membrane" (available at tile supply stores). Simply mix up this two-part paste, then spread on a thin layer. Many brands include a fabric for reinforcing corners. After it dries, you can spread the adhesive and set your tile.

For lasting results, remember to slope the shelf slightly so water has a chance to run off into the tub rather than sit and gather around the grout.

Dry-Fitting Your Layout

What is the best way to plan the pattern for my new bathroom floor tiles?
Dry-fitting your tiles, or laying out the tiles on the floor without adhesive, is the best way to see exactly how the pattern will look.

First use a chalkline to snap some reference lines; then lay out enough tile to see how the pattern will look and to determine where you will have to cut tiles. Remember to include the space for grout lines. For the best appearance, try to minimize the number of cut tiles and make the pattern symmetrical near the room's most prominent fixtures, like the bathtub or vanity.

Shift the pattern as necessary and snap new chalk lines to help guide your work. On larger floors with more complex patterns, snap guidelines every 2 feet to keep the rows straight.

Stop Sliding Tiles

Sometimes my tiles slip down while I'm trying to lay them onto the wall. How can I prevent this from happening?
There are a few things you can do to stop sliders from sliding. To start a row of tiles, try screwing a temporary board to the wall as a horizontal guideline and setting the tiles on top. Leave the board in place for 30 minutes, or until the adhesive stiff-ens. When working down a wall, pre-vent sliding tiles by taping loose tiles to an anchored row of tiles above.

You can also use plastic spacers, but watch for misshapen tiles—even a small bump along the edge can throw your rows off. Use a straight-edge to check your progress.

Door Trim in the Way

How do I fit underlayment and tiles around the door trim?
For professional-looking results, buy or borrow an undercut saw (at a tile store). Cut the door trim so that the tile can slide underneath.

Laying Wall Tiles

I have my reference lines drawn and am ready to begin laying my wall tiles. Where do I begin?
Start by mixing up a batch of adhe-sive to the consistency of mayonnaise. Then, without covering up your reference lines, spread a few square feet of adhesive on the lower corner of the back wall of the tub. Spread the adhesive thickly at first, pushing it hard against the wall; then comb it with the notched edge of the trowel. This will give you smooth ridges of adhesive. If the adhesive begins to form a skin or feels stiff, it's starting to set up. Scrape it off, apply new adhesive, and work on a smaller area next time.

Lay whole uncut tiles first, and press them firmly into the adhesive. Avoid sliding the tiles into place because this will displace the adhesive. If you're using plastic spacers, use one at each corner. Use a screw-driver or utility knife to clean up any adhesive that squeezes out between the tiles. It can discolor the grout you apply later.

You'll need to cut the tiles in the row near the corner, and probably in the row above the tub as well. Keep the bottom row of tiles at least '/s inch away from the tub.

Move on to another square of adhesive once you're finished, and continue up the wall. When you get to the top and to the sides, finish with single- and double-bullnose tiles on the edges and outside corners.

When you run into plumbing pipes, set all the whole uncut tiles that fit around them. Then cut tiles to fit closely around them. If a pipe ends up in the middle of a tile, cut the tile into two rectangles, nip out a semicircular hole in the edge of each, then reassemble the two parts. Don't be fanatical about getting the tile tight against the pipe; within 1/4 inch is fine.

If you have to tile around an outlet or switch, first turn off the power at the main panel. Remove the screws and pull the outlet or switch from the electrical box. Set the tile within 1/8 inch of the box; then replace the switch or outlet so the metal tabs rest on top of the tile. You may have to use longer screws.

After you have finished a few rows, level and bed the tiles. To do this, tap them with a hammer and a wood block wrapped in an old towel.

Laying Floor Tile

I've just tiled my bathroom walls, and I'm ready to move on to the floor. Is tiling a floor any different than tiling walls?
Floor tiles are no more difficult, and frequently less time-consuming, to install than wall tiles. To begin, mark your reference lines and dry-fit your pattern. Plan for a row of almost full tiles along the wall nearest the door. Using cut tiles here will ensure that you don't have to use a sliver to correct an out-of-square room or other miscalculation. When you trowel out the adhesive, remember to work from the far wall toward the door.

The threshold should rest directly on the subfloor, and its outer edge should be halfway under the door. Roughen the back of the threshold with 50-grit sandpaper; then glue it to the subfloor with thinset mortar.

Don't walk on the tiles for at least 8 hours or until the adhesive sets. Allow 24 hours before grouting.

HOME IMPROVEMENT

SHOPPING MALL > DEPARTMENT STORE > HOME IMPROVEMENT

TITLE: Home Improvement, Home Depot, Home Decor, Home Decorating, Home Remodeling, Home Decor, Home Interior, Home Furniture Store

Home Improvement Category: Home Improvement, Home Depot, Home Decor, Home Decorating, Home Remodeling, Home Decor, Home Interior, Home Furniture, Home, Do it Yourself, Doityourself, DIY, Diy Network, Do-it-Yourself

Shopping Mall: Home Improvement offers do-it-yourself Home Improvement guide and store, Home Improvement, Home Depot, Home Decor, Home Decorating, Home Remodeling, Home Decor, Home Interior, Home Furniture, Home, Do it Yourself, Doityourself, DIY, Diy Network, Do-it-Yourself Store

Home Improvement Topics: Home Improvement, Home Depot, Home Decor, Home Decorating, Home Remodeling, Home Decor, Home Interior, Home Furniture, Home, Do it Yourself, Doityourself, DIY, Diy Network, Do-it-Yourself